Gear Review: Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device

Say goodbye to buying different belay devices for every type of climbing—the Smart Alpine does it all. It’s an assisted-braking belay device, meaning it locks up by itself when the climber weights the rope (although you should always keep your brake hand on the cord). Even though it’s designed primarily for ice and alpine routes, it shined on long rock climbs like the Yellow Spur in Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon. “I liked being able to hold my partner easily when he fell,” our tester says. “But unlike other assisted-braking devices I’ve used, this one can do double-rope rappels, belay one or two seconding climbers, and be set up as an auto-blocking device.

It’s a hell of a tool for long routes because of its versatility.” We tested the version that takes 8.9mm to 10.5mm ropes (half and single), but Mammut also makes a slightly lighter (4.4 oz.) version specifically crafted for the skinnier ropes of alpine and ice climbing (double, twin, and thin single ropes).

$45

4.4 or 4.8 oz.; 7.5–9.5 mm or 8.9–10.5 mm

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