Backpacker Trips Trips by State Washington Trails

Trips

Pacific Northwest Trail: Cold Springs Campground to Ross Lake

Find plenty of raw adventure on the Pacific Northwest Trail while hiking a 120-mile roadless stretch from Cold Springs Camp to Ross Lake in Washington’s remote Pasayten Wilderness--the Lower 48’s longest such track outside of the John Muir Trail.

September 19, 2013 BACKPACKERMagazine

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First conceived in 1970 by Ron Strickland (a colorful Massachusetts conservationist whom BACKPACKER once branded a “pulpit-pounding evangelist”), the PNT dream rode the crest of the 70s-era backpacking
boom. Then, in June 1980, it crashed when a Congressional study decreed “it is overwhelmingly evident…the trail…is neither feasible nor desirable.” But Strickland rallied supporters—swinging axes and pulaskis—to work
toward making the PNT an on-the-ground reality. And in the past seven years the PNT benefited from a happy confluence of changes: support from each Washington congressman and senator, renewed public interest, and a new leader of the Pacific Northwest Trail Association, the passionate yet diplomatic Jon Knechtel. Thirty years after Congress’s snub, the 2009 Public Lands Omnibus Management Act designated the PNT a National Scenic Trail. It had entered the pantheon.

This instant 1,200-mile classic starts in Glacier National Park at Upper Waterton Lake, then punches west through the Rockies, Selkirks, North Cascades, and Olympic Mountains to Olympic National Park at Cape Alava, the westernmost point of the Lower 48. This trip report hits the PNT’s finest miles, a 120-mile roadless stretch–the Lower 48’s longest such track outside of the John Muir Trail–crossing crossing Washington’s remote Pasayten Wilderness, from Cold Springs Camp to Ross Lake.

PLAN IT

GUIDEBOOK AND MAPS The Pacific Northwest Trail Guide, by Ron Strickland ($20, out-of-print, used at amazon.com); Green Trails Maps Nos. 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 ($7 each, greentrailsmaps.com)

PERMITS Required. Pasayten Wilderness: Self-register at trailhead. Ross Lake National Recreation Area: ick up at ranger’s office in Winthrop prior to trip. Both are free. Trailhead parking at Cold Springs Camp requires a Washington Discover Pass ($30, discoverpass.wa.gov).

INDULGE On the road to Cold Springs Camp: Stop at the Duck Brand Cantina in Winthrop (509-996-2192; methownet.com/duck) for BBQ duck quesadillas and microbrews. Leaving Ross Lake: Grab any pizza at locals’ favorite Annie’s Pizza Station (360-853-7227) in Concrete. Our trail scout and area map contributors rave about the Chicken Caesar Pizza.

GEAR UP Get dehydrated food and last-minute supplies at Winthrop Mountain Sports, 257 Riverside Ave., Winthrop, WA; (509) 996-2886, winthropmountainsports.com.

CONTACTS Pasayten Wilderness, Winthrop Ranger District, (509) 996-4003; Ross Lake National Recreation Area, (360) 854-7200, nps.gov/noca

Trail Facts

Distance: 195.8

Waypoints

PNT001

Location: 48.938936, -119.790344

Trailhead: Cold Springs Campground. To begin hike, walk up road 300 yards, to Loomis Natural Resource Conservation Area sign. Campground: A Washington DNR facility (Department of Natural Resources). Due to budget constraints, the DNR has been closing facilities, but as of Aug. 2010, the campground was open and no permit required. Driving: From Seattle 5 to 6 hours. Seattle , I-5 north to Hwy 20 West, to Hwy 20/97 to Tonasket, WA (last good supply town), via Highway 7 to Loomis, left on Toats Coulee Road, then a hard right onto Road 4075. There is a primitive “Chopaka Grade” sign just after the turn. This is a steep dirt road, but quite do-able even in a four-door sedan. Rumor has it that it is a 1930’s convict-constructed road. There are a number of “Y” junctions on the way to Cold Springs Campground. None are signed. Go with the more traveled, uphill route.

PNT002

Location: 48.94019, -119.793909

Road junction; sign for Loomis Natural Resource Conservation Area. Look at PNT symbol on the Loomis sign. It is the only one you will see the whole 120 miles. Loomis NRCA is 24,672 acres, the largest in the state. No camping permit required.). Ahead on the road to the left is the Cold Springs day use area. Just past the sign and dropping downward is a five-foot wide new freeway of a trail that is slated to be the new official PNT track (Chopaka Mountain Trail). Our route, the old PNT, is higher and more scenic, continues upward on dirt road to a restricted access locked gate.

PNT003

Location: 48.94136, -119.793363

Closed gate. Road closed to vehicles. Continue up dirt road.

PNT004

Location: 48.946432, -119.794689

First big open view. To the west, Horseshoe Mountain, Horseshoe Pass and Horseshoe Basin, Pick and Arnold Peaks. Trail heads to Horseshoe Pass ten miles from Cold Springs Campground.

PNT005

Location: 48.950855, -119.798375

Enter Chopaka Mountain Natural Area Preserve. Four-foot tall orange border stakes mark border. Trail dances along CMNA border a while

PNT006

Location: 48.963886, -119.806469

Barb wire gate to left on off-trail road just before PNT dirt road/trail ascends pass between Joe Mills Mountain and the Disappointments.

PNT007

Location: 48.964749, -119.810976

Unnamed pass, begin steep, viewless descending trail. From here you have over 110 roadless miles. Not even a Jeep track mars the view, except on Bunker Hill for a short while looking over the Canadian border.

PNT008

Location: 48.971329, -119.826539

Cross Olallie Creek.

PNT009

Location: 48.966335, -119.837758

Re-cross Olallie Creek on new bridge. Just ahead on left old log cabin ruins. PNT track up Goodenough Trail is supposed to begin .1 miles on left. However, new 2010 trail here obliterates entrance to Goodenough Trail. In 2011 trail work should clean this up. We backtracked after going .4 south to take Snowshoe Creek Trail 340.

PNT010

Location: 48.960551, -119.839317

“It’s easy to be seduced by good trail.” After heading .4 miles south too far, we backtrack, never finding Goodenough Trail, returned over the bridge and went up Snowshoe Creek Trail 340. Trail 340 eventually disappears amid blowdowns and cow paths. Cross-country traverse in direction of west junction of Trail 340 and Goodenough Trail just before entering Pasayten Wilderness.

PNT011

Location: 48.9858, -119.859003

First elk dropping.

PNT012

Location: 48.988225, -119.863317

First bear scat. Lots and lots of blowdowns, no trail, many disappearing cow paths, orange markers on trees for snowmobilers in winter.

PNT013

Location: 48.988489, -119.874606

Great view west in burn area along ridge. Sketchy, disappearing trail.

PNT014

Location: 48.982801, -119.880911

After following fence, old gate between two spruces and new zigzag wooden gate.

PNT015

Location: 48.982132, -119.881783

Pasayten Wilderness sign 100 yards after gate. Good trail.

PNT016

Location: 48.979502, -119.935074

Horseshoe Pass. Good campsite with small stream at nearby signed trail junction.

PNT017

Location: 48.986166, -119.949839

Lauden Lake. Close by is a beautiful un-named pass.

PNT018

Location: 48.96685, -120.032092

1.6 miles past Teapot Dome. There is a use trail to a Teapot Dome campsite, but it is hard to spot.

PNT019

Location: 48.969934, -120.032358

Trailside campsite.

PNT020

Location: 48.965917, -120.048608

Great view of Teapot Dome.

PNT021

Location: 48.963811, -120.062173

First snow flurry. “This is supposed to be August.”

PNT022

Location: 48.981405, -120.086724

Sheelite Pass.

PNT023

Location: 48.97752, -120.127618

Old trail gate remnant.

PNT024

Location: 48.977433, -120.130058

Cross stream. Lower trail to Tungsten Mine site continue ahead to mine buildings.

PNT025

Location: 48.977664, -120.132401

Tungsten Mine cabins. Cool.

PNT026

Location: 48.976414, -120.147846

Apex Pass. Snow flurries and hail.

PNT027

Location: 48.97311, -120.149975

First view of Cathedral Peak.

PNT028

Location: 48.972517, -120.154127

View of long cirque trail traverse to Cathedral Pass. First long “destiny view” of trail ahead.

PNT029

Location: 48.985314, -120.1924

Cathedral Pass.

PNT030

Location: 48.981625, -120.204581

Upper Cathedral Lake. Many campsites.

PNT031

Location: 48.977793, -120.2104

Trail junction below upper Cathedral Lake. Go right to stay on PNT.

PNT032

Location: 48.976438, -120.211963

Junction with trail to lower Cathedral Lake. Good sign.

PNT033

Location: 48.971268, -120.213207

“Boggy area,” described in PNT guidebook.

PNT034

Location: 48.966683, -120.220999

Trail Junction, the first of two going off toward right (southeast) toward Remmel Lake. Green Tails Maps calls this 1.7-mile stretch between the two Remmel Lake trails, Trail 565, but PNT guidebook says it is Boundary Trail 533.

PNT035

Location: 48.963524, -120.223782

Bridge and good water/stream crossing.

PNT036

Location: 48.960819, -120.22913

Junction with trail signed as 494, not on GT or PNT maps, a Remmel Lake cutoff trail.

PNT037

Location: 48.960554, -120.237332

A “T” Junction at Spanish Camp. Turn right onto Trail 510 for a short way.

PNT038

Location: 48.961253, -120.238417

Spanish Camp Patrol Cabin (locked).

PNT039

Location: 48.961499, -120.239212

Bridge, stream crossing, trail splits 50 yards past bridge. Right, up the hill, is the new boundary trail, and left down valley floor and Bald Mountain’s flank is old Boundary trail. We took slightly longer, but more distinct, new boundary trail.

PNT040

Location: 48.970001, -120.292957

Great lunch spot with views back to Cathedral Peak and Pass and up along broad, open shoulders of Bald Mountain.

PNT041

Location: 48.961947, -120.301927

Amid PNT guidebook’s “interminable switchbacks” down to the Ashnola River. First view of Peeve Pass four miles past Ashnola.

PNT042

Location: 48.961933, -120.310161

First quaking aspen.

PNT043

Location: 48.962489, -120.311108

First bear. On trail, ~2–years-old, 140 pounds, forty feet ahead.

PNT044

Location: 48.966555, -120.321978

Campsites.

PNT045

Location: 48.967469, -120.321939

Old log gate. Not closed.

PNT046

Location: 48.968096, -120.323681

Large campsite at Ashnola River. Old log lean-to bunkhouse.

PNT047

Location: 48.96835, -120.324524

Bridge across the Ashnola River. Single log, flat top and chest-high cable guide

PNT048

Location: 48.974183, -120.337574

Bridge over unnamed stream.

PNT049

Location: 48.978903, -120.342879

Pass an old broken fence/gate; campsite just ahead.

PNT050

Location: 48.966444, -120.357822

Trail junction at 6,700 feet: take the trail on the right; the left side is blocked with rocks. A series of sharpened stakes begin to mark trail.

PNT051

Location: 48.966948, -120.368076

Barker Brown cabin ruins visible 200 yards below trail. Looking back you can see the last 20 trail miles’ progress, Cathedral Peak and Pass and Bald Mountain.

PNT052

Location: 48.963559, -120.374753

Stream crossing; campsite, (False) Peeve Pass, broad, open, Sounds of Music high meadow country. Junction with old trail (.8 mile long trail coming back in from south).

PNT053

Location: 48.961559, -120.383303

Junction at Peeve Pass. You descend, just like on the CDT, rather than climb to the pass.

PNT054

Location: 48.963884, -120.389853

Junction with trail to Park Pass and Sheep Mountain (506). There’s water a hundred feet down Park Pass trail. This begins a possible seven-mile stretch to the next water.

PNT055

Location: 48.962596, -120.391118

Cross stream in calendar photo-like meadow. There’s a large campsite on the right.

PNT056

Location: 48.957828, -120.395903

Full running stream and hillside covered with carpets of purple lupine and yellow arnica.

PNT057

Location: 48.955563, -120.400406

Bear right at the unsigned “Y” junction at this notch.

PNT058

Location: 48.956351, -120.40303

Turn left at this unmarked trail junction.

PNT059

Location: 48.955984, -120.404319

Continue straight (southwest) at this junction with Quartz Lake Trail.

PNT060

Location: 48.949362, -120.4179

Great view, including Bunker Hill ahead.

PNT061

Location: 48.958398, -120.432147

Trail obscured; start of pole- and cairn-marked stretch.

PNT062

Location: 48.959463, -120.432284

Great Cascades view. No disagreement with Guidebooks pronouncement that this one of PNT’s “ten best.” Traversing along west side of Quartz Mountain.

PNT063

Location: 48.976278, -120.460326

There’s a stream crossing near this saddle.

PNT064

Location: 48.973107, -120.472842

Ahead, you’ll hike through the 2006 Tatoosh fire burn area.

PNT065

Location: 48.974192, -120.483761

Crest the false summit of Bunker Hill.

PNT066

Location: 48.973384, -120.485483

Crest the official summit of Bunker Hill. There is the foundation of an old lookout tower. Great lunch spot.

PNT067

Location: 48.972232, -120.48755

Second trail junction. Go right (due west) following rock cairns, soon there is trail, don’t take trail straight ahead. There is a sign on the tree 30 feet from the junction ahead.

PNT068

Location: 48.975177, -120.493866

First water from top of Bunker Hill.

PNT069

Location: 48.977344, -120.494659

Start of Tatoosh Fire burn area.

PNT070

Location: 48.987615, -120.54765

Next water. This last stretch must have once been a verdant green tunnel. Only bare, charred tree trunks remain. Trail here is sketchy.

PNT071

Location: 48.987175, -120.548546

Stream crossing. Trail is obliterated on the other side for first 50 feet then you can see it angling up the slope. First huckleberry bushes.

PNT072

Location: 48.982907, -120.560251

First view of Pasayten River.

PNT073

Location: 48.972406, -120.560573

East Fork River. Left is Hidden Lakes Trail. Stay right along East Fork.

PNT074

Location: 48.97363, -120.568248

Two hundred yards above the Pasayten River, blowdowns like matchsticks across the trail.

PNT075

Location: 48.9732, -120.570497

Cross Pasayten River. Bridge burned in 2006 Tatoosh fire. Bridge cement foundations remain. Forded just above bridge crossing, knee deep in late August.

PNT076

Location: 48.974745, -120.572923

No trail on other side of Pasayten River. Dense brush. Bushwhacked 300 yards after crossing river toward first raised bench. Picked up the trail tread on top of bench.

PNT077

Location: 48.974127, -120.573475

Campsite

PNT078

Location: 48.97566, -120.569407

Junction Trails 533 and 461. Waypoints 78 to 96 are of a 5.3 mile (round-trip) side trip to Monument 85 at the Canadian border. Trail faint under burned forest. Twenty percent totally covered, but waypoints mark locations of tattered, pink surveyor’s tape tied to branches. On the last quarter mile before the Monument and the Canadian border, the trail disappeared completely.

PNT079

Location: 48.985002, -120.56615