Live from the Sierra High Route
Welcome to the map portion of Steve Howe's solo thru-hike of the Sierra High Route. Steve is BACKPACKER's Rocky Mountain editor, and he started this 37-day, 280-mile route on Saturday, August 26, 2006. He's podcasting once a day from his evening camp, and we'll be updating this map daily with a new waypoint showing where he's pitching his tent.
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The Sierra High Route is a very rugged alternative to the famous and more-crowded John Muir Trail. Both cross some of the country’s most spectacular terrain as they climb across high passes and blond granite peaks in the heart of the Sierra. Since author Steve Roper wrote the definitive guide to the SHR in 1997 (after decades piecing together sections), only a handful of backpackers have tackled the entire route each year. Much of the SHR is off-trail, requiring expert navigation skills and a level of self-reliance that takes years to achieve. Much of the route is also above treeline, exposing hikers to potentially fierce weather–as well as dozens of poster-worthy alpine campsites and wildflower meadows. Wildlife and photo ops abound; check back after Steve returns to see some of his pictures. From this page, you can click on “Trip Details” for brief descriptions of the daily waypoints, or you can click on “Interactive Map” to view and manipulate a route map. You can zoom in and out, scroll in any direction, and look at topo maps, aerial photos, or a hybrid of both. And if you sign up for the site’s advanced membership, you can view any trip on Google Earth — and load your own GPS data, photos, video, and sound clips. To listen to Steve’s podcasts, go to www.backpacker.com/podcasts.
Waypoints
Day 22: Nancy Pass (10,300 ft.)
Location: 37.6415786743164, -119.147171020508
After a short, brutal 600-foot talus climb, Steve and his crew find “hallucinatory revelations” at the top of Nancy Pass, along with stellar views of the many spires in the Minaret Range. Check in with our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 22: Neck-craning views
Location: 37.6767921447754, -119.167175292969
After a hard day managing only 5.25 miles of hiking, Steve reports from an alpine bench above Iceberg Lake and describes “one of the top 3 scenic spots on the Sierra High Route so far.” Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 24: Routefinding In A Granite Maze
Location: 37.691276550293, -119.232727050781
Calling from the northernmost of the two Twin Island Lakes, Steve reports on a tricky descent from Glacier Lake Pass and the discovery of a mule trail that helped him navigate a granite maze. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 25: Into Yosemite at Blue Lake Pass (11,250 ft)
Location: 37.6840934753418, -119.291282653809
Steve reports in after a stiff climb through the sublime curves of Bench Canyon. Having reached the boundary of Yosemite NP, he’s treated to showcase views of the Ritter and Clark Ranges. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts.
Day 25: Look for the snow-white rock
Location: 37.6875801086426, -119.294677734375
Steve updates a sketchy descent route from Blue Lake Pass. Head right, away from dangerous terrain and toward a rock so white it looks painted–not your typical grey, Sierra granite. Listen to this danger-averting tip at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 25: The Crucial Gully
Location: 37.688060760498, -119.308334350586
Steve finds a key spot after the descent. Reach a gorgeous meadow with a stream, but don’t search for the trail. Instead, head N until it turns to timber and rounded-boulder slabs. Listen to his advice at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 25: A Rough Go Of It
Location: 37.7072906494141, -119.325248718262
Steve reports from camp after rugged travelling over Blue Lake Pass into the Lyell Fork of the Merced River. Contrary to the guidebook’s “breezy descriptions,” he finds the terrain challenging. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 26: Bench above Lyell Fork of the Merced River
Location: 37.7092933654785, -119.341171264648
Steve phones in from a bench in granite-slab country dotted with sparse forests. He outlines the route from Blue Lake Pass and meets up with a ranger. They talk food storage and the High Route. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 26: Closing in on Tuolumne Meadows
Location: 37.8241310119629, -119.333061218262
Steve checks in after 9 hours and 13 miles of speed hiking through the lower elevations. Listen in as he describes mistakes he made today, and how he recovered after finding himself bonking on Vogelsang Pass: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 27: Trail pounding through the heart of Yosemite
Location: 37.9025230407715, -119.289001464844
Steve reports on an arctic air mass that blew in last night, freezing a water bottle half-solid inside his tent. He also describes the hike from touristy Tuolumne Meadows back into a “wilderness aura.” Join in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 27: Frigid Night at the Great Sierra Mine
Location: 37.9291687011719, -119.267684936523
Phoning from a ridgetop campsite just outside the border of Yosemite NP near the Great Sierra Mine, Steve’s has just four days left after soloing for 197 miles on a demanding and committing route. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 28: East ridge of Mt. Conness
Location: 37.9724349975586, -119.298988342285
Making his way from Mineshaft Pass to Cascade Lake, Steve phones in from a class 2 spur near the sprawling Conness Glacier. This true alpine section features firm granite, airy traverses and stunning views. Check in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 28: High-alpine camp at Secret Lake
Location: 37.9975090026856, -119.30933380127
Reporting from 10,900 feet, Steve details a difficult ascent and descent, which he likens to a Stairmaster on loose rocks. Tomorrow’s climb over Sky Pilot Col, the next-to-last major pass, could be epic. Tune in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 29: Sky Pilot Col
Location: 38.0042266845703, -119.309982299805
After spotting bighorn sheep butting heads from his campsite, Steve patiently picks his way up to Sky Pilot Col over heinous, pointy scree. Listen to our editor’s tips for traversing sketchy rock slopes at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 29: Soldier Lake
Location: 38.0470352172852, -119.354225158691
Steve picks a small campsite on the sloping banks of Soldier Lake. Nearby, the Stanton and Virginia Peaks command the high horizon. Listen to our editor relive today’s events at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 30: One last, possibly dangerous, downclimb
Location: 38.0605735778809, -119.359855651855
Taking deep breaths and counting his steps, Steve prepares to downclimb the dodgy, 300-foot dihedral gulley below Stanton Pass. He sees a steep trench with loose rock and good traction only on the left side. Listen in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 30: Alive and kicking
Location: 38.063835144043, -119.36247253418
Steve checks in from a grassy knoll halfway between Stanton Pass and Horse Creek Pass. Listen in as he describes the dramatic downclimb from Stanton Pass, offering detail on the thinking that went into every move: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 30: Finished!
Location: 38.1430740356445, -119.379898071289
Steve reports in safely at Mono Village at the end of his solo thru-hike of the Sierra High Route. One last surprise: He is joined on the trail by a Backpacker.com user who’s been following Steve’s progress. Listen in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 23: Windy On All Sides At Thousand Island Lake
Location: 37.7093887329102, -119.191284179688
An easy day of cross-country travel has turned into a cold night. Swirling winds are still gusting as Steve ponders the class III downclimbs and torrential river crossings to come. Listen to our editor at: htttp://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Trailhead
Location: 36.7950134277344, -118.583656311035
Roads End Trailhead
Day 1
Location: 36.8580474853516, -118.59375
Day 1: Grouse Lake sits in an impressive granite basin just below Grouse Lake Pass.
Listen to Steve’s daily podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 2
Location: 36.9288444519043, -118.567779541016
Day 2: Granite peaks above State Lakes makes for a picturesque, and well-deserved, campsite. The off-trail route from Grouse Lake to here crosses two passes, and a beautiful glacial bowl.
Listen to the podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 3
Location: 36.9513664245606, -118.543853759766
Day 3: Tonight’s camp is on polished granite slabs near a 4-acre unnamed alpine lake below a blade of jagged peaks.
Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 4
Location: 37.0011787414551, -118.483993530273
Steve camps near one of the alpine lakes and saves Frozen Lake Pass for an early morning start.
Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 5: Frozen Lake Pass
Location: 37.0058517456055, -118.481979370117
This is the approximate spot near Frozen Lake Pass where Steve turned around. Icy gullies and dicey terrain made the descent too dangerous. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 5: Cartridge Pass
Location: 36.9749221801758, -118.487373352051
Our scout rejoins the old rut of the John Muir Trail and goes over Cartridge Pass.
Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 6: Palisade Lakes
Location: 37.0567398071289, -118.478851318359
After 40 miles, Steve camps off the John Muir Trail near Palisade Lakes. Tomorrow he leaves the main trail to continue on the Sierra High Route.
Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 7: Under Cirque Pass
Location: 37.0651893615723, -118.498344421387
Steve camps near an unnamed alpine tarn at 11,400 feet. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 7: Under Thunderbolt Pass
Location: 37.0922775268555, -118.525108337402
Steve camps at a climber’s bivy below Thunderbolt Pass. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 8: Loose Boulders
Location: 37.1131744384766, -118.546592712402
After lots of boulder hopping, Steve rejoins the trail in upper Dusy Basin and heads for Bishop Pass. Listen to today’s podcast at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 8: Lakeside Camp
Location: 37.130428314209, -118.552131652832
Steve finds “gold” near his camp near Saddlerock Lake just off Bishop Pass Trail. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 9: Parchers Resort
Location: 37.1854248046875, -118.557540893555
Steve re-supplies and fuels up for leg 2 of his 220-mile Sierra High Route. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 10: Rest Stop
Location: 37.1042137145996, -118.555511474609
Back on the trail again: Our editor talks about what its like to huck a fully-loaded pack on a solo trip. Listen to today’s podcast at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 10: Incredible Camp
Location: 37.0928611755371, -118.593482971191
The hike into this camp near a waterfall offers splendid views into Le Conte Canyon (note: waypoint is a rough estimate). Listen to our editor describe the scenery at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 11: Upper LeConte Canyon
Location: 37.114559173584, -118.63858795166
Trail leads through Barrier Rock and above treeline. Listen to our editor describe the scenery at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 11: Wanda Lake Camp
Location: 37.1239128112793, -118.68953704834
After a long push over Muir Pass, our editor camps on an isolated bench near Wanda Lake. He calls it: “one of the top three” campsites on the trip with a 180-degree panorama. Listen to our editor describe the day at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 12: Evolution Lake
Location: 37.1725921630859, -118.700820922852
From the N end of Evolution Lake, Steve will leave the trail, heading toward the massive Glacier Divide. Listen to him discuss his route options at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 12: High Camp
Location: 37.1997222900391, -118.693756103516
Stellar views to the corrugated N face of Mt. Mendel. Listen to our editor describe today’s challenges, including a hail storm at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 13: Alpine Col at Glacier Divide
Location: 37.2153472900391, -118.694808959961
After a stout boulder-hopping session to the Col (12,364 ft.), Steve gets visited by a rare pine marten and marvels at what looks to be “refreshingly flat” terrain ahead.
Listen to our editor’s daily updates at:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 13: Hunkered Down in Humphreys Basin
Location: 37.2290229797363, -118.701210021973
“Sick of boulder fields” are Steve’s exasperated words after a long afternoon spent negotiating truck-sized rockfall. Now, he’s quickly set camp to get ahead of oncoming storm front. Check in on our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 14: Atop Puppet Pass
Location: 37.2777214050293, -118.72477722168
During an “easier” day of traversing tundra and fighting bitter-cold winds, Steve remarks on a waterfall careening down sheer cliffs and then plans his next move. Listen to our editor checking in from 11,800 feet:
https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 14: Camp on French Creek
Location: 37.2902946472168, -118.764831542969
Steve comments on his descent into the white-bark pine stands lining French Canyon. Upon setting camp, he enjoys a welcome bath and impromtu laundry session in the creek. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 15: Feather Pass
Location: 37.3212776184082, -118.782051086426
Steve bumps into a few other off-trail hikers–the first of his trip– and describes the vivid, if bizarre, dreams that occur after a couple weeks off the grid. Listen in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 15: Black Bear Lake
Location: 37.3361015319824, -118.795967102051
Deciding to stop because it’s “just too beautiful,” Steve comments on his “view of the world” in the rock-bound, stair-stepped lakes of Bear Lakes Basin. Listen in as he ponders logistics: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 16: Gabbot Pass
Location: 37.3799514770508, -118.791198730469
Tucked in a windy notch between Mt. Gabb and Mt. Abbott, Rocky Mountain editor Steve Howe talks about the aerial acrobatics of several raptors he spent an hour viewing this afternoon. Check in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 17: Afternoon Break at Laurel Lake
Location: 37.4596672058106, -118.859428405762
Finished with a steep climb up Laurel Creek, Steve comments on the stunning terrain that surrounds and compares his morning routine to a group of college kids he camped near the night before. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 17: Sunset at Bighorn Pass
Location: 37.4661064147949, -118.866012573242
Phoning from his campsite, perched on a sandy bench at 11,272 feet just below the pass, Steve reports on the evening light show, which resembled a “golden lava ball drowning in cherry juice.” Join our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 18: From the East Shore of Lake Virginia
Location: 37.5117530822754, -118.931076049805
Steve reports in after a day of difficult routefinding contrary to the guidebook. He also explains how he plans to repair a boot sole, a problem that’s a potential trip-ender. Listen to today’s update at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 18: Blue Hour
Location: 37.514720916748, -118.936149597168
As alpenglow changes from deep blue to cold gray, Steve describes his camp under a stand of bonsai-like pines, and then outlines plans for future reports on the logistics of thru-hiking the Sierra High Route. Check in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 19: Waiting Out a Storm at Deer Lake
Location: 37.5641288757324, -118.986999511719
Steve finds a windproof whitebark-pine grove to wait out a wall of crackling thunderheads. Listen to our editor contemplating the changing geology and his current sense of isolation under a million stars: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 20: Routefinding Above Treeline
Location: 37.5815391540527, -119.015518188477
Steve reports in at 8:30 a.m. from a knife-edge ridge on the narrow geological formation known as Mammoth Crest. The weather is changing rapidly and the trail is now hard-to-find. Join our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 20: Acres of Giant, Charred Matchsticks
Location: 37.6190719604492, -119.074005126953
Steve reports from his resupply point in Mammoth. Listen as he describes an otherwordly scene upon emerging from stately, groves of towering old-growth pines to discover the abrupt edge of a 1992 wildfire. Check in at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Rest Day: What It Takes For A Successful High Route Trek
Location: 37.6476593017578, -118.975570678711
Taking a full day in Mammoth Lakes to patch and clean gear, Steve goes in-depth on what you’ll need for such rugged and committing cross-country alpine travel. Listen to our editor talk logistics and pre-trip planning: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts
Day 21: Back on Trail
Location: 37.6360206604004, -119.146896362305
Steve reports in from on old-growth meadow in the Ritter Range. He talks about his new traveling companions and the gear he’s brought for this next leg. Listen to our editor at: https://www.backpacker.com/podcasts