California's Smith River National Recreation Area

Little-Known Fact:?Did you know that the three forks of the Smith, and their many tributaries, form California’s last free-flowing river system without a dam?

I had never seen water this clear. My canoe seemed to be flying over dry rocks. If not for the resistance against my paddle, I might have passed the experience off as a dream. And after several miles of frisky whitewater, I was tired enough to be dozing and dreaming.

But it was real ~ and time to stop, have dinner, and soak up the warmth of a campfire. As I pulled my boat onto the gravel-strewn bank, I briefly considered working for my supper. After all, the Smith River is home to 20-pound trout and salmon twice that size. But the region also holds another natural wonder: the most magnificent trees on the planet. I headed uphill.

As I walked, the murmur of the river grew faint and then disappeared, swallowed up by the surrounding forest. High overhead an immense tangle of limbs and branches blocked the sky, letting only thin columns of sunlight through to highlight the ground.

I could see why Congress named the Smith River a National Recreation Area. The designation means that management of the area ~ roughly 300,000 acres ~ must emphasize recreation and environmental resources. Although logging and mining are not eliminated under this designation, “new forestry” timber practices and stringent mining regulations will be enforced. In practical terms, this means that there will be fewer clearcuts to mar the scenery, and all mining is being phased out.

The three forks of the Smith and their many tributaries form California’s last free-flowing river system without a dam. In fact, 315 miles of these waterways are designated National Wild and Scenic Rivers ~ more than any other river system in the country. As a result, the emerald waters tumble unimpeded to the sea from snowcapped peaks high in the Siskiyous.

The most exhilarating way to appreciate the Smith River region is on a float trip. All three of the waterway’s forks offer whitewater in their upper and middle sections, especially during winter when storms swell the river. Those who prefer a tranquil paddle should stick to the lower stretch where mirror-smooth pools reflect the tops of trees 300 feet above.

You can also hike and mountain bike the area year-round, depending on the vagaries of the weather. Fans of cross-country travel will face stiff competition from the dense plant life and steep hills. The reward, though, is blissful isolation. Go deep enough and you’re more apt to run into a Sasquatch before you see a human. Less ambitious hikers can stick to one of several choice trails, including the South Kelsey National Recreation Trail, a former Army supply line that culminates in 360 degrees of splendor.

No matter what mode of transport you choose, you’ll soon understand why the area is sacred to local Native American tribes. To them it is a medicine area, a place of spiritual renewal.

^Contact Information:^

U.S. Forest Service

Gasquet Ranger Station

Box 228

Gasquet, CA 95543

(707) 457-3131

^Location:^

The Smith River is in northwestern California just below the Oregon border. Crescent City is just 18 miles from Gasquet and offers restaurants and lodging. For more information on Del Norte County, call (707) 464-3174.

^Getting There:^

From San Francisco take US 101 north. Driving time is roughly 7 hours.

^Seasonal Information:^

In summer, temperatures range from 60? to 90? F. In winter, temperatures range from 30? to 50? F. Temperatures below 20? are very rare.

Snow is generally not a concern, but rain can total 112 inches per year, with most falling between November and May. Winter, when there is high whitewater, is a good time for kayaking.

If you’re looking for an interesting time to visit, try the annual “Big Foot Day” held on Labor Day weekend.

^Wildlife: ^

Black bears, black-tailed deer, bobcats, porcupines, skunks, and raccoons call the area home. And listen for the bird-like whistle of mountain lions.

You can fish for mighty salmon, the fighting steelhead, and plentiful rainbow trout.

^Insects:^

Contact park office for information.

^Plant Life:^

Patches of ferns grow in small clearings, flashing brilliant, almost incandescent green. Just behind them loom huge, furrowed masses of trees that have withstood 1,000 winters. These millennial redwoods climb as tall as skyscrapers.

The Siskiyou Mountains, where the river originates, are noted for a diverse plant community, including one of the world’s largest concentrations of lily species, as well as many species of conifers such as the rare brewers spruce, Alaskan yellow cedar, and Port Orford cedar. Summer wildflowers include Washington and tiger lilies, the rare bolanders lily, and the pitcher plant found near water.

^Facilities:^

Primitive campgrounds operate on a first come, first served basis with a maximum 14-day stay. Sanitary facilities are generally available. Some sites also have water pumps.

^Parking:^

Contact park office for information.

^Permits:^

You’ll need a state license to fish. For overnight trips, get a free campfire permit from the Forest Service. Most campsites are free. Those with fees cost from $4 to $8.

^Policies:^

Contact park office for information.

^Hazards:^

Watch out for poison oak.

^Leave No Trace:^

Use established campfire rings.

All LNT guidelines apply.

^Maps: ^

A USGS 7.5-minute forest ranger map of the Six Rivers National Forest includes the Smith River area, showing campgrounds and other pertinent information.

^Other Trip Options: ^

• Explore the Siskiyou Wilderness or the many lakes of the Marble Mountain Wilderness.
• Journey on the Pacific Crest Trail, one of the best known trails in California, connecting Canada and Mexico.