
'Dan Eckert'
Beautiful night sky photography is all about technique. The secret to producing immaculate nightscapes isn’t in a wide-angle lens, a high-end telescope, or a new Nikon or Canon DSLR camera—nor is it in post-processing or photo-editing software. These tools may help, but without technique, composition, and the knowledge to use your camera effectively, you won’t get anywhere. Whether you’re a beginner, intermediate, or advanced photographer, it’s important to focus on the fundamentals of good astrophotography. With these tips from the field, you’ll be ready to tackle your bucket-list dreams and shoot for big things—think auroras, eclipses, the deep sky. The possibilities are limitless.

Once you’ve chosen which star or constellation you want to photograph, research moon phases and constellations with apps such as Star Walk (for iPhone) or the free Google Sky Map (for Android) which show you the sky view from specific places at any time of the night. A full moon is the most popular of the eight moon phases to photograph, but you may want to shoot under a new moon to capture constellations in great detail.
There are advantages and disadvantages to photographing under each moon phase. Regardless, check the weather and air quality for systems and events that would otherwise obscure your objectives and your subject.
For the darkest skies, go 60 to 100 miles from the city lights and get to high elevations. Notice the effect the high altitude and thinner atmosphere have on light refraction: Shooting through fewer light-dispersing particles creates crisper, brighter shots, with greater transparency and contrast. Also, to capture the most stars in your night sky photography, research which dark sky areas are near you.
As with any night photography, you’ll want to use a tripod. To master it, take a tip from one of the most renowned landscape photographers of all time, Ansel Adams. Adams urged for a methodical use of the tripod. Here’s how:
Frame one-third of the horizon against two-thirds of the night sky, and verify this a second time in your camera’s live view. This composition technique is called “the rule of thirds.”
Rules are meant to be broken, but “the rule of thirds” is the most essential rule of thumb for composition in both general and night sky photography. This technique helps to balance and unify an image. Simply divide your view into thirds horizontally and vertically so that you have nine equal sections of the image. Once you’ve established this imaginary grid in your viewfinder, frame points of interest at the intersections (rock features, faraway city scapes). Research shows that people’s eyes most naturally gravitate towards these points of intersection in an image, so use them to your advantage.

Allow your eyes to adjust to the darkness by turning off standard lights for 45 minutes. Need to illuminate the trail or camera controls? Cover one eye when the light is on—the protected eye will stay dark-adapted. If you need a headlamp, use one like Petzl’s Tikka; its red LED won’t affect your night vision.
The eye is composed of photoreceptors called rods and cones that convert light into electrical signals for your brain to interpret. Rods are responsible for low-light vision and are more numerous than cones; they contain the biologic pigment rhodopsin. When rhodopsin is exposed to bright light, it becomes photobleached. It may take up to 30 minutes to completely regain your night vision. Red light (utilized in many headlamp models) has a longer wavelength and is less disrupting to your vision than light on the other end of the spectrum.
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| Level | Common Mistake | Quick Fix |
| Beginner | Leaving the camera’s autofocus setting on, which delivers out-of-focus star shots. | Set the camera to manual and adjust the focal length to infinity. Verify that far-off stars are in focus by snapping a test shot, then review the shot by zooming in to the sky’s brightest star on the LCD display. If it appears out of focus, adjust accordingly. |
| Intermediate | Judging a shot’s exposure by looking at the LCD screen. | Confirm correct exposure by using the histogram – a graph that shows an image’s range of light. If the graph is shaped like a mountain or range, your image is exposed correctly. If the mountain shape has cliff-like edges at the ends of the graph, continue adjusting the settings. |
| Expert | Using automatic noise reduction for every shot. While it improves image quality, it also doubles each picture’s shooting time and burns through battery life. | Disable noise reduction (in your camera’s settings menu) for test images. Reset it for your last exposure. Not planning to print your shot? For digital, you can clean up low-resolution displays and graininess at home using noise filters in basic editing software. |
Point your tripod-mounted camera away from artificial light sources like distant cities or roads. Again, shoot 60 to 100 miles away from major cities and light pollution, and opt for high elevation.
Open the aperture wide (low f-stop numbers represent larger apertures), and select the highest ISO (1600 or above). Use a shutter speed that allows your camera to catch excess light (30 seconds).
Many areas may appear white, but quality doesn’t matter—it’s composition that counts. Examine these shots for desirable elements (like rocks or trees) or for distractions (like an angled horizon, bright spots caused by light pollution, or clouds). Note the focus of the stars and foreground objects.
Turn and pan the camera to frame your desired scene; tilt it to level the horizon and refocus if necessary. Ensure that your tripod is stable and positioned correctly.
Overexpose your test shots, adjust for composition, and refocus several times until you’ve framed your desired scene. Then, based on conditions and content (see camera setting reference charts below), adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to expose your subject properly.
Plan to print? RAW files are like negatives and allow for more editing flexibility.
Tip: Save camera storage space by shooting in RAW, but delete test shots.

| Camera Settings | |
| Exposure Time | 32 m |
| Aperture (f-stop) | f/16 |
| Sensor Speed (ISO) | 400 |
Key Adjustments: Experiment with exposure times lasting from several minutes to several hours. Longer times will show longer star trails.

| Camera Settings | |
| Exposure Time | 8s+ |
| Aperture (f-stop) | f/2.8 |
| Sensor Speed (ISO) | 1600+ |
Key Adjustments: Use a high ISO (higher than 1600 if possible) so that the camera sensor registers low-light despite exposure times short enough to freeze stars.
| Camera Settings | |
| Exposure Time | 1/250s |
| Aperture (f-stop) | f/11 |
| Sensor Speed (ISO) | 100 |
Key Adjustments: The moon is bright (and tracks quickly across the sky), so use a fast shutter speed to capture its surface details without overexposing them. Zoom in with your longest lens and focus on the moon’s features. Crop shots with photo-editing software at home (to enlarge the moon’s relative size).
| Camera Settings | |
| Exposure Time | 2m |
| Aperture (f-stop) | f/16 |
| Sensor Speed (ISO) | 1600 |
Key Adjustments: Use a small f-stop to give your image greater depth of field so you can focus both near and far elements at the same time. A quarter moon can cast enough light to brighten a scene.

Create a scene that merges your favorite nighttime shots into one. Take an underexposed base image of your scene, then add light or change exposure settings in subsequent shots to accentuate different features—foreground objects, the stars, or alpenglow on the landscape.
In Photoshop or other photo-editing software, overlay your darker base image with the highlighted ones, and utilize your layers panel for layer masks to obscure or reveal elements you want to include in the final image. Layer short-exposure star shots to create star tracks with free layering software like StarStax.
The Earth’s rotation can blur the moon and stars during long exposures. Adjust your ISO (higher) and f-stop (larger) to minimize exposure time, thus eliminating motion-caused blur. Determine max exposure time with this equation: 400 divided by the focal length. The result is your exposure time limit in seconds.
Maximum exposure time limit (seconds) = 400 ÷ focal length

You don’t just have to pull out your camera for night sky photography. Experiment with headlamps and other lights to show foreground detail to take more dynamic shots and to simply have fun. To paint with light, you’ll leave your shutter open and use a light source to draw pictures across the scene as if you had an imaginary whiteboard. Play around with several of these advanced techniques for added creative dimension:
Ben Canales is a Portland, OR-based photographer. See his night sky photography here.