You’re Almost Certainly Not Washing Your Jacket Enough

If your hardshell is wetting out, it’s probably not because you need a new one: Chances are, a thorough wash will bring it back to life. And now that gear brands are making shells with PFAS-free durable water repellent treatments, washing is even more important to maximize performance.

There’s been a longstanding misconception within and beyond the outdoor community that washing and drying your shell will reduce its lifespan, when it fact the opposite is true. Just like your skin, a jacket’s waterproof membrane has pores. Those pores allow it to breathe while also sealing out rain, snow, and spilt summit beer (yeah, you know who you are). But when those pores become blocked by oils and grime—again, think about how sunscreen and sweat can cause breakouts—they stop working.

A good wash will bring your jacket right back to life, and that advice has always applied to all waterproof layers, regardless of construction, membrane type, or chemistry. But now, new testing from Patagonia suggests that PFAS-free shells need to be washed twice as often as shells with PFAS—a class of persistent “forever chemicals” that have been implicated in a range of cancers and other diseases—because the membrane’s pores are that much more sensitive to soiling. It’s a good time to learn how to maintain PFAS-free clothes: Starting on January 1, 2025, California and New York will ban the sale of some textiles containing the chemicals.

You don’t have to worry about the heat and turbulence of a washer and dryer hurting your shell. Brands put their products through far worse conditions for quality assurance testing before a shell gets into a customer’s hands.

“The amount of abuse we’re putting on those garments before they get into the wild is way beyond what a customer is going to do in the washing machine,” says Corey Simpson, communications manager at Patagonia.

When you return from a backpacking trip, you’re probably throwing your midlayers, baselayers, socks, and accessories into the wash. Maybe you even throw your synthetic or down jacket in there. “With that, just wash your shells too,” Simpson says.

How to Wash Your Shell

First, use a sponge or damp washcloth to wipe away any dirt and debris, like the marshmallow goop that dripped from your s’more or the mud spray you kicked up on your bike.

Empty your pockets of tissues, wrappers, and other treasures, then zip up the main zipper, snap any snaps, and button any buttons. (Zipping, snapping, and buttoning beforehand is important because it will reduce impact against the drum, therefore extending its life. You can keep your handwarmer pockets unzipped if they’re dirty inside because they’re less likely to flap open.)

Next, load your shell into the washing machine. A front loader is better, because garments can get tangled around the agitator of a top loader.

A regular mild detergent is perfectly fine to use in a pinch, Simpson says. Just make sure it doesn’t have harsh fragrances or a grease or stain remover. “It’s literally better to wash your jacket with that stuff than to let it be totally saturated,” he says. Otherwise, a detergent designed for technical layers—such as Nikwax’s two-step wash, Storm Clothing Wash, or Granger’s Performance Wash—is best. This will restore breathability and improve repellency.

Follow the directions on the tech wash label, but most likely, you’ll set the temperature to warm and load size to small. Patagonia recommends adding a second rinse to remove any residue.

Lastly—and I know it might seem scary—you’re going to want to run your jacket through the dryer. The heat is crucial in activating the water-repellent properties. Dry on low or medium for at least a half hour until it’s warm; don’t nuke it on high heat or use steam.

Simpson says if you don’t have access to a dryer, you can let your jacket fully air dry, then cover it with a thin towel and use an iron to indirectly administer heat.

After a season, your jacket may not look super dirty, but it’s worth washing as part of your routine. Think about how many times you’ve set your backpack down in dirt or pine needles, or zipped up your jacket after snacking on a greasy peanut butter bar. We’re constantly coming into contact with elements that disrupt DWR, even in places you may not expect it.

“Not a lot of people are thinking about the backpack panel and the shoulder straps,” Simpson adds. “They’re constantly rubbing and creating that friction on that garment. If you’re hiking in the rain for a long time, that DWR is getting smeared and mired all around.”

If you care for it—and wash and dry it right—your rain shell should last years to come.