
The erstwhile bison, finally spotted. (Photo: Ryan Wichelns)
The trail sign—just a rectangular wooden post—is leaning at a 15 degree angle, the splinters along its length jammed full of clumps of brown hair in North Dakota’s Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I look up, scanning over the grassy plateau for the back-scratching culprit. The ranger told me that by spending a night in this remote section of the southern unit of the National Park I was as likely as anywhere to see some bison.
Having spent my entire life back East, I was immediately on board. But so far I’ve had no luck. Instead, I head off-trail to the edge of the plateau. I spend the night watching the sunset on one side while the badland maze to the east dips into the shade, accentuating every strange angle and hiding the bottoms of the canyons. Not a bad compromise. It isn’t until I’m on my way out the next day, less than 2 miles from the trailhead, that I’m stopped in my tracks by the bison that I came here for, 50 yards off the trail. Just in time.
Permit Required; free at South Unit Visitor Center Contact Park Office GPX Badlands Bison
Overall: 3.5/5
Difficulty: 2/5
Duration: 2 days