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Most people travel to Stehekin, a tiny town in the North Cascades, by riding the Our Lady of the Lake ferry across long Lake Chelan. But you can backpack in 19 miles to Stehekin from the other direction, too—crossing the heart of North Cascades National Park beauty. The prize? A stop at the Stehekin Pastry Company, where the sticky buns are almost as big as a marmot.