Essays

Through Love and Heartbreak, My Favorite Trail Was Always There

Through two breakups, career changes, and more, the Beaten Path has been a welcome constant—and a yardstick for just how much everything else has shifted.

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All Access
15% off New Year Sale
$7.02 / month*

  • A $500 value with everything in the Print + Digital Plan plus 25+ benefits including:
  • Member-only content from every title in the Outside network like Outside, SKI, Climbing, and more
  • Annual gear guides for backpacking, camping, skiing , climbing, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Exclusive discounts on gear, travel, and race-entry fees
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+
Backpacker

Print + Digital
50% Off New Year Sale
$2.00 / month*

  • Annual subscription to Backpacker magazine
  • Access to all member-exclusive content and gear reviews on Backpacker.com
  • Ad-free access to Backpacker.com
Join Backpacker

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Hiking isn’t just a hobby—it’s a lifestyle. Maggie Slepian tackles the hiking life—and all of the joys, problems, arguments, and weird quirks that go along with it—in her column.

My first time on Montana’s 26-mile-long Beaten Path was six or seven years ago, with my then-fiancé. The trail wasn’t as popular as it is now and guides were almost non-existent, so we cobbled together what information we could and planned a shuttle, leaving my truck at East Rosebud and driving his back over Beartooth Pass to start outside Cooke City. 

The Beaten Path isn’t very long, but the terrain is heroic— the kind of setting that makes you feel like you’re on an epic adventure. Very few miles are below treeline: the trail starts high, then climbs even higher to the dramatic landscape of the Beartooth Plateau. There are open expanses of alpine meadow, flowing creeks that criss-cross the trail, and campsites near alpine lakes, all ringed by snow-capped mountains. 

We were in terrible hiking shape, and planned to do the trip as an overnight. A few miles in, however, we realized we’d left the fuel in my truck, and had miscalculated the amount of food we would need for a two day trip. Instead of turning around, we hiked the full trail in one day, essentially off the couch. Even through the struggle, it ended up being one of my favorite stories—the incredible views and glittering lakes were punctuated by stabbing pain in my knees and the helpless feeling of having no idea how much farther we had to go. I’ll never forget the relief I felt when I caught a glimpse of cars at the East Rosebud trailhead as the last of the sunlight faded.

Two years later, we hiked the Beaten Path again, this time with two friends. We’d ended our engagement and we were seeing if there was anything left to salvage in our relationship. 

“I’d thought that returning to these 52 miles of trail would fix something, reverse the series of events that led to the end of the relationship, but I was wrong. I had now ended two serious relationships against the Beaten Path’s dramatic backdrop.”

We were proficient backpackers now, thanks to an Appalachian Trail thru-hike the year before, but the end of our relationship had turned us unsentimental. Our friends were newly in love and also new to backpacking. They hiked slowly, stopping often to pull out a map and point out landmarks. My partner and I hovered nearby, impatiently waiting with our packs still strapped to our backs. 

We packed up quickly in the morning like we’d done for five months on the AT, looking around for our friends. We saw them through the mist floating off the lake—their tent was still set up and he was teaching her how to use a fly fishing rod, unaware that anyone was watching. My breath caught in my throat as I watched them untangle the line together. My partner turned and headed towards the trail. 

A few years later, I pulled into the Cooke City trailhead yet again, this time with someone else. I was in excellent hiking shape, I was experienced in the backcountry, and thanks to my new career in the outdoor industry, my gear was dialed. Despite its emotional baggage, the Beaten Path was now my favorite trail, and I was thrilled to share it with someone new. We were a solid backcountry team, and despite mishaps with the group we were hiking with, we felt confident and strong and capable. 

Then, like Groundhog Day, I returned to the Beaten Path the next summer, in the midst of yet another relationship’s end. My soon-to-be-ex and I hiked it as an out-and-back—52 miles in 2.5 days. Years after my first difficult trip on the trail, the climbs and descents felt mellow. We switchbacked up the canyon, climbed alongside the roaring creek to treeline, then out to the expanse of the plateau. Each turn felt familiar, each consecutive section of trail made sense. We were fluid and seamless as hiking partners, with more nights spent in the backcountry than I could remember. There was no hostility, just quiet sadness.