Gear Guide 2012: Scarpa Reflex Climbing Shoes

A shoe that easily transitions from gym to sport climbing to bouldering to multipitch routes.

“From gym to sport climbing to bouldering to multipitch routes, this shoe does it all,” says Climbing’s gear editor. “Scarpa nailed the balance between technical performance and comfort, and this means wider versatility.” Credit the flat last which provides all-day comfort and the asymmetrical shape which adds power when edging.

Two opposing, contoured Velcro strips let testers dial in the fit across a wide range of foot shapes. The suede and stretchy-synthetic upper ensures a snug fit that won’t disappear over the life of the shoe. Testers found it a bit soft for precision edging (standing on really thin holds that require stiffer soles), but it was perfect for smearing the slabs of Yellow Spur (5.9+) in Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon. $99; 1 lb. (pair, m’s 40);