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The DAILY DIRT - The nitty and the gritty of outdoor news

TRIP DOCTOR: I'VE ALWAYS WANTED TO HIKE IN NEW ZEALAND BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO START. A LITTLE HELP?

Michael Lanza shows you how to plan your perfect mind-blowing hike in Lord of the Rings land.


Going to New Zealand, mate? Good on ya! One of the most famous routes is the Routeburn Track, a classic for a few reasons: it’s not too hard to hike and has incredible scenery going from lush forest to an alpine path with expansive views and nice huts. In fact, at 19.8 miles, fit people could dayhike it (though being a point-to-point traverse complicates transportation logistics for doing it in one long day).


Gary Kuehn hiking above the Dart River.


But it’s so well known that the big challenge is getting a hut reservation. And once you have one, you’re committed you to dates, allowing no flexibility to delay for a day or two if New Zealand’s characteristically fickle and very wet weather goes south.

As an alternative, I prefer the Rees-Dart Track . Linking the valleys of the Rees River and Dart River via 4,747-foot Rees Saddle, it has Routeburn-caliber scenery—it’s in Mt. Aspiring National Park, basically next-door to the Routeburn—and comfortable, well-spaced huts. But because it’s longer (37 miles) a bit harder, and simply not as famous as the Routeburn, hut reservations aren’t necessary. I trekked it with a friend who’s a mountain guide in New Zealand but had not been on the Rees-Dart before, and he was blown away by how beautiful it is.


THE ITINERARY

People generally hike the Rees-Dart counter-clockwise: up the Rees Valley and down the Dart Valley, which makes sense particularly if you’re using a trailhead transport service (as I’ll recommend below). And don’t miss the 12.4-mile, out-and-back side trip to Cascade Saddle, done as a dayhike from Dart Hut. On a clear day, it’s the highlight of the trip, with its panoramas of Dart Glacier and the Southern Alps, including Mt. Aspiring.

Plan five days total, following this itinerary:
Day one: Muddy Creek trailhead to Shelter Rock Hut, 11.8 miles.
Day two: Shelter Rock Hut over Rees Saddle to Dart Hut, 5.6 miles.
Day three: Dayhike to Cascade Saddle, return to Dart Hut, 12.4 miles.
Day four: Dart Hut to Daleys Flat Hut, 11.2 miles.
Day five: Daleys Flat Hut to Chinaman’s car park, 9.9 miles.

Fit hikers can combine the first two days, but be forewarned: the 5.6 miles from Shelter Rock Hut to Dart Hut is rough and can take a few hours—longer if you’re tired—and Rees Saddle is very exposed to weather and wind. Plus, you might appreciate having an easy day between the 12-mile first and third days.

If you want some flexibility, extend your itinerary to six days, so that if it’s rainy and overcast on the day you planned to hike Cascade Saddle, you can hang out at Dart Hut and hope for clear skies the next day.

The Muddy Creek Trailhead and Chinaman’s car park are about a 90-minute drive apart in good weather, on roads that can get rough and require driving across streams. Don’t take a chance on getting stuck with a rented economy car. Use one of the transport services from Queenstown: Buckley Transport (buckleytransport.co.nz) or Info & Track, (infotrack.co.nz).

WHAT TO KNOW AND WHEN TO GO

When to Go
The best time to hit the Rees-Dart Track is late February through March. New Zealand is jammed with Kiwi and international trekkers from Christmastime into February, and pleasant, drier weather (relatively speaking) often lasts into April.

Conditions
The Rees-Dart has extremely muddy and boggy sections—bring good waterproof boots and gaiters—and some streams can be impassable after a recent rain. Stream levels are often lower and muddy stretches relatively dried out by late summer. When I did the Rees-Dart in the third week of February, we had mostly clear weather, mild nights (rarely below 50° F.), only some light rain on our last day, not too much mud, and no trouble with stream fords. There are bridges over the Rees River and Snowy Creek.

Gear
Bring a tent; the huts can fill up by late in the day, especially the Dart Hut, because so many trekkers spend two nights there in order to dayhike to Cascade Saddle. You might even prefer sleeping in a tent over a hut, which can be noisy and badly infested with biting sand flies (especially the valley huts).

When my friend Gary and I arrived late at the Dart Hut, we grabbed extra mattresses and slept under the stars on the outside deck on a clear night. There are nice tent sites near the hut, too. But do not leave a tent up or gear out when you leave your campsite at Dart Hut—New Zealand’s alpine parrot, the kea, is notorious for shredding unguarded tents.

Essential Tips
Two last notes: If you’ve never heard of sand flies, steel yourself for the equivalent of the Northeast’s black flies, but arguably worse (and I’m a New England native). And in this mild maritime climate, they’re around all summer. Bring bug dope.

Also, New Zealand’s air is so clean—thanks to the constant ocean winds blowing pollution away—that UV exposure is extreme. Use sunscreen with the highest SPF rating you can find. Clothing that’s cool but covers arms, legs, and head protects against sun and sand flies.

—MICHAEL LANZA

Michael Lanza is Backpacker’s Northwest Editor. He’s working on a book, “Before They’re Gone,” about spending a year taking his kids to national parks threatened by climate change. It will be published in spring 2012 by Beacon Press (beacon.org). michaellanza.com/

READERS COMMENTS

NordroN
Aug 01, 2010

My wife and I tramped the Routeburn in Jan 2007 with our daughter's family including 3 teenage grandkids. We have backpacked and hiked for 50 years and this is one of the best ever. Ultimate Hikes (http://www.ultimatehikes.co.nz) has guided hikes and they take great care of you. Some say the Routeburn beats the Milford Track which they also do. We also did a one week hiking tour with Active New Zealand (http://www.activenewzealand.com/) - highly recommended.

Wayne N
May 22, 2010

The Milford trek should be added to the list. Truley an awesome trail.

Honora
May 21, 2010

Good to see you publicising the gorgeous Rees-Dart track. I took my 12 year old nephew on this circuit over 20 years ago. Another tip is to be aware of the danger of crossing flooded side streams. A tourist was swept away 18 months ago, crossing a flooded side stream upstream from the Dart River.

Annie Swann
May 21, 2010

New Zealand offers so many fabulous trips that it's impossible to narrow them down, but I think that the country's best hiking is in Nelson Lakes National Park, near Nelson at the northern end of South Island. I've done trips all over the country, and keep finding myself gravitating back in that direction. Nelson Lakes doesn't get the persistent rainfall received by Fjordland, Mt Aspiring, Arthur's Pass and other South Island National Parks, crowds are few, a hiking club hut pass buys basic shelter for the night, and the landscapes will blow the mind. Don't miss the enigmatic Mt Angelus Hut!

Gary Little
May 20, 2010

A good starting point to gain info on Godzone's tramping is to logon to http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/ This will take you to a page of regional walks. There will also be links to other pages on tramping in NZ.
Cheers
Gary
www.foreststay.com

Gary Little
May 20, 2010

A good starting point to gain info on Godzone's tramping is to logon to http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/ This will take you to a page of regional walks. There will also be links to other pages on tramping in NZ.
Cheers
Gary
www.foreststay.com

Mike Nicolls
May 20, 2010

Lonely Planet publishes an excellent guidebook called "Tramping in New Zealand" by Jim DuFresne that discusses most of the major walks. The current version ($22) is the 6th edition and was published in late 2006. ISBN 978-1740597883. Have a great time! I'm going someday too...

Mark
May 20, 2010

There are a lot of great tramps in NZ whether on the North or South Island. Other great Tramps include;
North Island
Hillary trail
Pinnacles, Coromandal
Northern circuit, Tongariro National Park
Round the Mountain Tk, Tongariro National Park
Waikaremoana

South Island
Able Tasman Coastal Tk
Heaphy Tk
Milford Tk
Kepler Tk

The biggest tip i can give anyone when tramping in NZ is to be prepared for sub-alpine conditions at any altitude.

www.ppsnz.co.nz

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