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Backpacker Magazine – September 2008

Destination Nowhere

The most remote spot in the Lower 48 is inside Yellowstone National Park. It's also the goal of our correspondent. What he encounters–and what it says about the solitude backpackers treasure–will surprise you. PLUS: See more of his photos and read a Q&A.

by: Mark Jenkins, story and photos

Colored algae grows on thermal pools along the Snake River.
Colored algae grows on thermal pools along the Snake River.
Sunburned brush below electric peak.
Sunburned brush below electric peak.
Hours-old, 8-inch-wide grizzly tracks.
Hours-old, 8-inch-wide grizzly tracks.
Gaillard documents the day's hour-long wolf serenade.
Gaillard documents the day's hour-long wolf serenade.
photo icon  Need More Nowhere? Author Mark Jenkins goes deeper into the concept of wilderness, how to protect  it, and what the middle of nowhere is really like in this extended Q&A interview. Plus, see more of Jenkins's photos in an exclusive online gallery.

I wanted to believe that this deep in the wilderness, practically as far away from civilization as one can get in the Lower 48, the trail would have vanished. I imagined hiking through pristine conifer forests across Wyoming’s majestic Absaroka Mountains on an indistinct game path, the paw prints of a wolf or mountain lion faintly visible in the pine-needle duff. Instead, we’re wallowing in a muddy horse trail a foot deep and sometimes 10 feet wide. In the pockets of grassland between stands of timber, the track immediately fans out, furrowing the meadow with a dozen side-by-side troughs.

David Gaillard, my companion, is balancing on the rim of the trail with his towering pack when he suddenly slips knee-deep into the bog. “It takes hundreds of horses to trash a trail like this,” Gaillard groans, grabbing tree limbs and pulling himself out of the mud. “This isn’t a trail, it’s a thoroughfare.”

True enough. We’re moving through northwestern Wyoming’s Thorofare Valley, once an intermountain pathway for the hunting parties of the Absaroka, or Crow, Indians, a tribe known for their flamboyant horsemanship.

Of course, the Crow are now gone–they were forced onto the Crow Indian Reservation in south-central Montana in the early 20th century. But the Thorofare is still a Holy Grail for hunters and outfitters, who charge sportsmen up to $10,000 each for the opportunity to hunt by horseback in this bountiful land of Boone-and-Crockett elk. It’s October, hunting season, and we’ve seen numerous pack trains since starting our hike two days ago. Here comes one now.

On the lead horse, with his leather scabbard just behind his saddle, a guide winds his group down the trail, his cowboy boots, spurs and chaps, Stetson, and de rigueur scarlet neckerchief signaling that he’s a roper or rancher in the off-season. Three overweight men and a red-cheeked woman, each in new pearl-button shirts and stiff Wranglers, trail behind. The guide and the dudes all have celebratory beers in one hand and hold the reins in the other. Behind them, a string of pack horses lumbers along, loaded with elk antlers so large that, flipped over on the pack saddles, their white tips practically drag on the ground.

We step away from the trail to let the hunting party pass, but the cowboy tells us we’re waiting in the wrong place.

“Stand over there,” he says, swapping a plum-size wad of chew from one cheek to the other and pointing to a spot on the opposite bank. We’re considerably older than he is, but, like schoolboys, we trudge through the mud to where he wants us to wait.

The dudes, riding five feet above the mud, are shocked to see people traveling this far into the wilderness, afoot and unarmed. “You walk here?” asks one of them.

Gaillard and I nod.

“Why, you’re in the middle of nowhere!” spouts another, raising his beer in a toast. When they’ve passed, Gaillard quietly responds.

“Not yet. But we’re getting there.”


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READERS COMMENTS

Well said, J Miller.
I'm both a backpacker and a hunter and I find it amusing to an extent on the back and forth jabs.

Could this article have anymore stereotypes about hunters?
When the suburban hiker/backpacker finally ponies up the money and supports wildlife like hunters do THEN they can grip.
Hunters and Ranchers are the true environmentalists.
Posted: Dec 26, 2008 C Miller

"Remote" isn't just being the farthest from a road or human habitation. I did a survey on "Summit Post.com" and the two places that won the "remote" award were not even close to Yellowstone National Park. Number one on climbers and backpackers list was the Picket Range in North Cascade National Park. Specifically Mt Luna in the heart of the range. Number two was in Canyonlands National Monument. What both sites have in common is a lack of humans. Getting to either of the two locations takes time and inflicts its share of pain on he who ventures there. Although both places offer very different environments they hold in common a real threat of danger reaching them. Reaching the Pickets requires bushwacking, river crossings, glacier travel, ice climbing and rock climbing skills in a weather environment which can go from sunny 80 degree temps to snowing and 35 degrees within two hours.
Canyonlands is approached mainly by river running the Green and Colorado River System. Then backpacking up canyons with little water and either extreme high temperatures over 100 degrees or cold temps in the 30's.
No! Yellowstone may have the farthest point to hike to from civilization, but it "taint" the most remote spot in the Lower 48!!!!!!!!
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Larry L. Murphy

Wonderful article. The feeling of being at the most remote spot in the lower 48 must truly be inspirational. However, the discussion along the trek about the "nature" of "wilderness" is what makes the article so noteworthy. I think what we're dealing with here (and I find this every time I discuss "wilderness" with anyone) is conservation vs. preservation, and the lines that blur between the two and also between conservation and unchecked overuse/abuse. What a catch-22 we are all in as lovers of the wild. I am unquestionably guilty of wanting the entire length of my hike to myself...therefore, I cannot scold others for their desires to enjoy the land in their own way. For me, it comes down to a question of sustainability and respect for nature, however you choose to enjoy it...and as always, keeping the over-indulging characteristics of our society in check. Shame on anyone who would hunt an animal simply for a wall mount. To leave an animal to rot while taking home its rack is as bad as slaughtering a cow to mount the hooves. And shame too, on anyone who scolds a man who responsibly hunts and eats what he kills.

Everyone has their own sense of "wilderness"...its up to all of us to realize that there is nothing stopping us from completely destroying it except ourselves.
Posted: Nov 10, 2008 D. Conoley

You might want to thank those outfitters and "wranglers" you demonize in the backcountry for paying for the conservation of the land they love more than life.. Sure there are a few bad apples but i've met a bad apple or too with a high tech backpack as well... One trip into a place you have never been and you are an expert on the subject. Spend three years there and tell me what you learn.. You might find yourself insignifigant and lonely.. That's how anyone feels back there.. Be carefull who you judge.. You are no different than those "dudes".. They are searching for adventure same as you except they just happen not to be walking.. Build yourself a "walking" trail if you don't want to get muddy next time..
Posted: Nov 08, 2008 J Miller

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