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Backpacker Magazine – September 2009

Time Travel: Hiking Historical Homesteads in the Smokies

A unique route linking historic homesteads yields an exciting Smokies adventure for hikers and history buffs alike.

by: Marcus Woolf

A settlers' cabin off the Cades Cove Auto Road. (Tim Seaver)
A settlers' cabin off the Cades Cove Auto Road. (Tim Seaver)
Pink Lady's Slippers (Brian F. Jorg)
Pink Lady's Slippers (Brian F. Jorg)
Old barns are left to deteriorate naturally. (Willard Clay)
Old barns are left to deteriorate naturally. (Willard Clay)
Small pools on the Maddron Bald Trail (Tim Seaver)
Small pools on the Maddron Bald Trail (Tim Seaver)
The Alum Cave Trail (Kevin Adams)
The Alum Cave Trail (Kevin Adams)

Southern Revival
Trek into the past on this six-day route, which deviates from our author's but follows the Old Settlers Trail across flower-strewn balds and through a rare rock arch.

Hike it This 50-mile hike follows the same route as the author but begins at Alum Cave trailhead (1) off Newfound Gap Road and concludes with a free park shuttle back to your car. Shortly after the start, ascend slippery stone steps though Arch Rock (2), a large black chunk of slate weathered into a natural arch. Next, pass a heath bald to traverse a steep slope beneath 4,950-foot Alum Cave Bluff. At mile 4.8, top out on Mt. Le Conte (6,593 feet), the third-highest peak in the park and home to the plank board-sided LeConte Lodge (3). Overnight here ($110/pp including meals) or camp a few strides downhill at Le Conte Shelter (4).

The next day, hike above 5,500 feet on the Boulevard Trail to the Appalachian Trail (5). Swing northeast, and trek 1.1 miles to a spur trail up the treeless 5,565-foot knob of Charlies Bunion (6). Look out into a collage of forest-green ridgelines and rounded mountains. Continue on the AT for 6 miles, linking a ribbon of ridgetops. Turn right onto Hughes Ridge Trail, cross Laurel Top (7), and descend to Pecks Corner Shelter (8). An easy day three straddles the TN/NC border, crosses Mts. Sequoyah and Chapman, and ends at the recently renovated Tricorner Knob Shelter (9).

The next morning, follow the AT 6.1 miles and turn left onto Snake Den Trail. In .7 mile, turn left onto the Maddron Bald Trail. Ahead are long-stretch views from the crown of Maddron Bald (5,212 ft.) (10). Descend 600 feet and pitch a tent at Campsite 29 (11) near the sloping banks of Otter Creek.

The trail continues west under the giant maples, beeches, and tulip trees in Albright Grove (12); see trunks with a 20-foot girth. Turn left (13) onto Old Settlers Trail, passing stone walls marking old land boundaries. Around lunchtime, detour north to the Tyson McCarter barn (14), built in 1876 (its shingled roof and log walls remain intact). Stay on Old Settlers Trail and pass several derelict chimney stacks. Campsite 33–your final night's stay–marks the homesite of Perry Ramsey (15), who lived in the park until 1930. The last day climbs over Copeland Divide and ends 6.4 miles later at Greenbrier Cove (16).

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Reader Rating: -


Oct 12, 2009

hey marcus... no hemlocks "on the slope above Le Conte Lodge".

Oct 08, 2009

Especially poignant, coming so soon after the wonderful Ken Burns' "National Parks" series on PBS. I like to think and hope that if we were creating the Great Smoky Mountains National Park now, we'd go about it in a more enlightened way, and let people keep living on and working their land.

Elizabeth Mills
Sep 15, 2009

Time stands still for no man... Unfortunately!!!


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