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Backpacker Magazine – October 2005

Best Damn Weekend Ever: Hike & Paddle the Benton MacKaye

Link two classic Southern rivers on a trek along the newly completed Benton MacKaye Trail in Tennessee and North Carolina.

by: Christopher Collier

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Tennessee's Ocoee River is among the most beloved whitewater paddling destinations in the United States. The nearby Hiwassee River is one of the top tailwater trout fisheries in the South. In the past, their proximity was nothing more than a footnote; there was no way to do both rivers without getting into a shuttle vehicle. Now? Their link-a new section of the 290-mile Benton MacKaye Trail-makes for one of the coolest 4-day adventures anywhere below the Mason-Dixon.

Named for the man who originally envisioned the Appalachian Trail, the recently completed BMT runs across the spine of the western Appalachians, hooking west where the AT runs north. And the new trail has something its venerable cousin lacks: light traffic. This quieter and more primitive path rolls past a wildly overgrown Southern wilderness of immense, moss-draped boulders, pristine creeks, and riverbanks thick with rhododendron. And it's all about as crowded as a sixth-grade dance floor.

The freewheeling 35-mile southeast Tennessee section features the two rivers as its adventurous bookends. Set up camp 100 miles north of Atlanta on the Ocoee's banks at Thunder Rock Campground, in 640,000-acre Cherokee National Forest. You'll be a mile or so upstream from the site of 1996 Olympic whitewater events, and downstream from where scores of freestyle kayakers do tricks in a rapid called Hell Hole. Join them in a funyak-a one-person raft that can take a paddler with basic skills through Class III-IV whitewater. A guide leads the way (details below), showing you how to read the river and choose lines, and how to ferry and surf in rapids.

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