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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Muir Snowfield, Mt. Rainier, WA

Where winter strikes year-round

by: Kelly Bastone

The Danger Scale key

The Hike Rainier's summit requires a formidable alpine climb, and more than 90 mountaineers have slipped or frozen trying to reach 14,410 feet. But a whopping 294 fatalities have occurred elsewhere on the mountain, including an alarming number between the Paradise trailhead and Camp Muir, a cluster of tent sites and stone cabins at 10,000 feet. A popular basecamp for climbers, Camp Muir is also a classic dayhiking destination, attracting thousands each year. Starting on the Skyline Trail, the nine-mile round-trip meanders innocently through wildflower meadows before climbing 2.2 miles and 2,800 vertical feet up the Muir Snowfield. Before you, Rainier looms; behind you, the Tatoosh Range displays its toothy peaks. But all that scenery extracts more energy than most hikers expect: The route gains a thigh-draining 4,600 feet. Ultimately, though, the real killer isn't fatigue; it's the fierce storms that roll off the Pacific and shroud Rainier in blinding fog and snow, turning the Muir into a huge, featureless killing field.

Exhibit A This past June, 31-year-old Eduard Burceag died of hypothermia when a surprise storm blasted Rainier with 70-mph winds and five-foot-deep snow drifts. He huddled in a makeshift snow cave, but his summer clothing proved no match for temps that plunged well below freezing. "You can experience winter lower down at any time," warns Peter Whittaker, owner of Whittaker Mountaineering. He's seen two feet of snow fall at Paradise on July 4, and freezing temps in August. Even when snow doesn't fall, storms can envelop Rainier in vertigo-inducing whiteouts that make navigation nearly impossible. "I've fallen over just standing there because your senses are so confounded," Whittaker says. Hikers have wandered blindly over cliffs or to distant parts of the mountain away from searchers. Most day-trippers don't anticipate such dangers, and head out unprepared. Add a reluctance to turn around when weather threatens, and this lovely hike can turn fatal.

Survival Plan On any hike above treeline, track your route with a map and GPS or compass. Consult weather reports at nwac.us, and beware rising winds, which often precede storms. Lenticular clouds also indicate deteriorating weather. If you get caught in a whiteout, hunker down and wait for park rescuers, who will search the Paradise/Muir corridor first. And always, says wilderness ranger Daniel Keebler, always hike with a whistle.

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READERS COMMENTS

I climbed Rainier in 1997. On July 3rd, the sun was hot and bright on the Muir snowfield. On July 4th at 4am it was about 15 degrees (on the Ingraham Glacier). That is a real swing! At that time of year your body is in summer mode, so your body is not used to the difference.
Posted: Oct 29, 2009 Steve C

I just had my first trip to Rainier... It was foggy with 50 feet of visibility up to 6,000 feet. Above that it was 60 degrees and a 2 mph wind. I kept thinking aobut that fog rolling in higher and how hard it would be to find the trail on some of the snow fields.... Crazy place! With Mount Washington NH in my back yard I hiked with all my gear and my 10 essentials (it isn't a joke, you have to have them). We had a great hike and I enjoyed it all the more because we were prepared for the worse.
Posted: Aug 23, 2009 Mike Wellington

I did Rainier back in 1997 and witnessed the same thing. It was Labor day ant the SHTF, There were the aforementioned flip flop wearing, nose ring sporting idiots everywhere with zero equipment.
I live in Costa Rica now so I dont even travel to town without my backpack. Ya never ever know.
The scouts had it right " Be Prepared ! "
Posted: Nov 18, 2008 Doug Ward

Living 15 miles from the Itsup entrance of Rainier park, I hike the park year around. It amases me just how unprepared i have found people to be. I lead hikers down from the Carbon Glacier after dark, who dident have a flashlight, proper coat, or even water. You should allways carry a small pack with at least warm clothes food and a light. Not to mention a firstaid kit.
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 Don Moore

I was on the mountain the two days before Burceag died. The first day was white out conditions and freezing. The second was so sunny and hot that several in our group got second degree burns while practicing cravas rescue. As you know the next day was a killer. You simply can not go above the tree line on this mountain and not be prepaired for everything. You are playing with your life.
Posted: Nov 15, 2008 BIll Wood

If you get caught in a white out, get into a shelter asap. It will stop the vertigo - it allows your brain to know which end is up.

I think what is scary about Rainier is the lack of being prepared by many visitors - it pains me to call them "hikers" - you see them at the trailheads at Rainier jumping out in flip-flops, tennis shoes with no traction, designer sweat suits on, or worse, tank tops and short shorts when it is early or late season. They have no gear with them, not even a pack on. The smarter ones at least have a bottle of water but many do not.
On the other side of Rainier at Sunrise it isn't uncommon to encounter people 4-5 miles out thirsty, hungry and freezing cold at 7,000 ft. Over the years I have given out a lot of food and water and told people how to get back to their cars faster. (They also never have a map along!)
It is often freezing cold above treeline at Rainier - fine for going uphill, but bad coming down with a stiff wind coming up the snow.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Sarah Kirkconnell

Never, never, never forget to tell someone where you're going.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Yep, and also

As someone who hiked the Mt Rainier Wonderland Trail and experience snowfall in August, I canonly agree. However, the most important survival tip was left out of this article. Its always the first tip ignored by hikers, too - carry and know how to use the 10 essentials. Warm gear and some kind of shelter is essential.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 LK