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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Mt. Washington, NH

It'll blow you away

by: Kelly Bastone

The Hike Known as the most dangerous small mountain in the world, 6,288-foot Mt. Washington boasts some scary stats: The highest wind velocity ever recorded at any surface weather station (231 mph) was logged here on April 12, 1934. And 137 fatalities have occurred since 1849. No surprise: Most are due to hypothermia–and not only in winter. "They call them the White Mountains for a reason," says Lieutenant Todd Bogardus, SAR team leader for New Hampshire's Fish & Game Department. "We see snow right on through the year." Several weather patterns collide on Washington and produce its notoriously foul weather, which can move in quickly. In 60-mph winds, hiking becomes nearly impossible: Traveling north along the Crawford Ridge from Washington's summit, hikers routinely–and unknowingly–get blown off course by powerful westerly winds, which shove them down off the ridge into the Great Gulf or the Dry River Valley. "It's human nature to go with the wind rather than into it," says Bogardus. Unfortunately, hikers often find the winds have steered them many miles from trails and roads, thwarting their safe return.

Exhibit A Staff at the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center warned 23-year-old Gabriel Gauthier that 1 p.m. was too late to start a summit bid. But sunny, 70°F weather in the valley convinced him otherwise, and on September 21, 2006, he and three friends hiked up the peak in little more than shorts and T-shirts. The mercury plummeted 40 degrees as they climbed, and Gauthier's body temperature dropped as well, ultimately rendering him unconscious. His pals continued to the summit and summoned help by breaking into buildings that had been closed for the season, but rescuers couldn't revive Gauthier. He lives–but with massive brain damage inflicted by profound hypothermia.

Survival Plan Lots of New England's nor'easters are predicted well in advance, so check the Mt. Washington Observatory forecast (mountwashington.org/weather). And most accidents occur in shoulder seasons to hikers not expecting winter to last so long or summer to end so quickly. Plan for high winds and icy temps, and pack warm, weatherproof layers and an emergency blanket or bivy sack. Check hikesafe.com for more tips on surviving Washington.


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READERS COMMENTS

For some one who seems to have hiked a lot Harrison Reed's comments about only needing certain limited clothing for a warm weather hike is missleading. I've been hiking the "Whites" since the 60's. The northern presidentials, especially the "Rock Pile" can be unforgiving. I've had it snow on me in August with wind chill factors way below freezing. Piece of good advice, when hiking Mt.Washington be prepared for the worst. If you luck out and have a good day so be it, you only carried a few extra pieces to the top. If you are an experienced hiker that shouldn't matter any how. By the way "Franconia Ridge" a few short miles away seems to claim a few ill-prepared hikers every year or two also.
Posted: Oct 30, 2009 Herb Andrade

I have attempted Mount Washington at least four times in the past 10 years. I have summited twice and turned back twice at Lake in the clouds (once because of weather and once because of time constraints). The two times I've summited I've had to come down either on the Cog Railway or on the Auto Road (due to exhaustion and time constraints). I plan on going up tomorrow for what will most likely be my last time. I'm planning on 10 hours for the hike and a "reserve" hour of sunlight. Weatherwise it looks doable tomorrow, 48 deg. F and 15 mph winds--not perfect but .
Posted: Sep 04, 2009 Vladimir L

If you have hiked for a while, this mountain is pretty easy in the summer other than the weather. Physically this mountain is a simple climb. Weather was pretty bad for us, but not terrible. My girlfriend and I hiked it yesterday for the first time. I started up wearing shorts and a rain jacket over a hiking shirt, because it was very foggy as we started out. I had in my pack 3 liters of water, plenty of food, a map, long johns (just in case), and a compass. You don't need any other gear in the summer. Shortly after starting up the tuckerman ravine trail, however, the jacket came off because the humidity was about %100. In about an hour we reached the hermit shelter, and the weather got pretty clear. The ravine was steep, and there is definately an element of exposure as you wind your way up the north east side of it. Getting at the top of the ravine is a giant rock pile, but this is also very easy going for someone with sure feet. We arrived at the top of the mountain after an easy 3 hour hike (for comparison we hiked monadnock in about an hour and greylock in about 2). The top is pretty ridiculous, because you climb up these dumb stairs to the summit. There is no "freedom of the hills" on this hill. THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL CAVEAT COMES: Once you get to the top you are by no means done with the hike. Coming down is always harder and more dangerous on any hike. It immediately began raining on our descent, and the rock pile became very slippery. The ravine descent was by far the most dangerous, and if you slipped here you would fall about 500 feet to your death. Also there are several spots that are only turf and gravel, and it appears that these might errode away in the rain some day under some poor fool's foot. We got down the mountain in about 3 hours due to our need for caution. We saw some people running down it, but this didn't appear very wise. In the end I think the people who get hurt on this mountain don't really know how to hike or what to take with them. We saw many fools with packs big enough for a multi-day expedition (and they clearly were not on one). We saw many fools with no gear, boston red sox shorts hat and tee shirt, and nike flats. We passed all of these fools on our way up and did not see any of them on our way down. Take clothes, take water, take a map. Take care of your feet and wear boots. Use hiking poles if you have them. Don't take the cog rail down.
Posted: Aug 14, 2009 Harrison Reed

I just came back from a trip to the summit with a guide from Ems and I'm so thankful I did ! I went up this past saturday it was 90 in the valley . As we went up the snow had melted so fast most of the climbs were vertical up rock face with freezing water coming down on your hands! We took the Lion Head winter trail which I only reco if your are in fantastic condition! . I had trained very hard for one year for this trip . And needed to dig down very deep !. The route is used by mountaineers who are training for Mount Everest know lie! I We where soaked with sweat many times then had to put layers on very fast not to get hypo! When you get above the tree line it is very scary , you are are much higher then the tallest skyscrapers on the planet! I don't think hikers really prepare for this and Vertigo can come on fast! The constant sheer up is very very hard to keep up plus the elevation is so fast your body screams. We had crampons and Ice axes and I had slid several times down ice and snow . I really could not believe how hard this was and how many time I really thought wow If i slip at all I could die! The real gut check is if you can make it to the top of lion head. The wind is so fast around 60 plus as you look over Tuckerman's ravine and the skiers look like ants! My right leg had given and fast with no warning! As we a sat, in a position I had never faced in my life my body just giving out on me so high up I was terrified! Again in the best shape of my life very strong fit really thought nothing could break me wow it was scary!. I asked my guide where the summit was , he replied up there I turned and looked up to the summit cone and was scared out of my mind! This thing is about a 50 degree slope! about 1k high! all snow . I really went to some dark places in my mind sitting in the rock ledge trying to stay warm talking it over with my guide, About iF I tried to go for it if I would have anything to get back with! Knowing full well if I slipped coming down I was most likely going to die. We talked for around 30 mins as I Rubbed my leg and tried to fight off the most fear I have ever felt in my life!
I Just said this was the moment I had heard of with climbers who had gotten to the point where you have to find out what type of person you are ! Mind you at this point my guide had given up hope I would have a chance to make it to the summit which he later told me. We agreed to walk across the few hundred feet across an ice and rock field to the base and see how the leg felt. I cant even tell you what went threw my mind as I went across about my wife who is 7 months pregnant and my 3 year old daughter and if this was going to be the biggest mistake of my life. When we got there It was ok, so we agreed if I could go at good speed to the first rock out cropping a few hundred feet above this white cone from hell we would keep going . Most people when they see ca mountain from a road or a picture you never see the hell it takes to get there , I really think this is how many get into trouble. As we climbed my legs hurt in way impossible to understand I had crossed over in my mind and was going for it and going to make it ! The cone is so high and so steep if you lean back you will slip and probably die . After getting to the top of the cone my guide said we have a great pace lets keep going and finish this! I really at this point as you hear in stories and movies had become a different person the kind that could push beyond the limit and do something heroic . Over the last rock field 3o mins to the true Summit! My guide and I both shocked I had made it rested and came back to earth! I called my wife some how got reception and cried I made it! The way down we had to motor as the weather has turned! My tank was empty! but I had no fear it was gone I had pushed it aside I Really crossed over! we had to use ropes and every trick in the book to get down as the route was gone! melted by the freak heat wave! Sheer melting ice straight down! We let 3 other hikers use our ropes on the way down as if not for my guides ropes they would have been stuck on the route with no way down! This route is hell in winter and no matter how strong you are you can get into big trouble fast. I had almost gone up solo if I had I would not be writing this no joke. The entire climb I had thought wow I could die here if I slip , seeing my guides face when it got steep saying wow this is bad! was very scary. The trip up lion head is so very hard but if you can make it you will leave a different person ! I would not reco going at this time of the year but in the summer My guide had showed me spots in the climb where others died So just know this mw is no joke even for the best climbers in the best of shape with the best gear. Best of luck and yes I got a cool summit pic!
Posted: Apr 27, 2009 Mario sarrica Jr

I heartily recommend that anyone interested in hiking Mount Washington get a copy the book, "Not Without Peril" by Nicholas Howe. In the early 80's I spent a summer working on the summit, and have hiked the mountain in every season. Proper clothing is essential. Also, a willingness to turn back, is critical to survival if the weather conditions deteriorate. I think that there have been over 150 untimely deaths on Mount Washington. Most of these deaths were preventable.
The closest I came to disaster was when climbing the Huntington Ravine Trail after a light October snow. The shear exposure and risk of falling were very real and I never again attempted climbing Mount Washington via Huntington's Ravine. Also, I once climbed to the summit on New Years Eve with three friends when we all worked for the Appalachian Mountain Club. Read the book, NOT WITHOUT PERIL, and you will get a feel for what to expect. If you do not believe the weather could be that bad on Mount Washington, you should access the weather station's website on the summit at www.mountwashington.org . Just check out the weather on their homepage. In the winter the conditons are often horrendous, with very low temperatures combined with hurricane force winds. Check it out. One guy who climbed Mount Everest, was turned back a couple times before he could reach the summit of Mount Washington in the winter. No Joke!! Happy Trails.
Posted: Jan 29, 2009 Dave Tosten

Please understand also that treeline on Mt. Everest is aboput 15-18 thousand feet-Tree line in the Whites is about 4100 ft. Please ask your self, Would you climb to 17,ooo'with only shorts and a tee shirt? Please be prepared. Thanks!
Posted: Dec 09, 2008 Skip Rogers

I was with a group of High Adventure Scout headed north on Crawford Trail. Day 1 was beautiful T-Shirt and shorts weather 65 degrees or better. Woke up the next morning and 30 degrees, 20 MPH winds, 50-60 MPH gusts, horizontal freezing rain, maybe 50 foot visability above the treeline ... this was the middle of JULY!!
Posted: Nov 30, 2008 Kevin

I've summited six times and have been chased off three times. Be wary of the mountain. My first time was with my wife - and she was terrorized at times by the wind and exposure. Carefully assess if you want to do this mountain.
Posted: Nov 26, 2008 Kingery Clingenpeel

Do not listen to Greg. If you hike Washington, you cannot count on the Cog or the Auto Road as a bailout option. What if you arrive on the summit after the last train of the day? What if the train has stopped running due to bad weather? if you climb via Ammonoosuc Ravine, the section of trail between Lakes of the Clouds and the summit is dangerously exposed and difficult for inexperienced hikers. Be prepared and hike safe.
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 Granite Stater

I have summited Washington three times and each time was beautiful. Of course it could suddenly turn around and be horrid. I agree if you climb "rock pile" go when it is pretty.. Otherwise I too turned around.
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 Park Ranger

It's also a good idea to bring dry clothes to change into. You get quite sweaty on the way up and it can get cold pretty quick above tree line. a fleece jacket and gloves and hat is a good idea even in the summer.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Bill KaS

My wife and I did Mt. Washington on a 70 degree day in Oct. By the time we got on top it was 19 degrees with snow. Start at the Cog Railway and do the Amanoosic (spelling?) trail. This way if the weather really goes south you can bail and ride the train back down. No matter what the weather take cold weather gear. We had it but my wife still was turning blue!
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Greg M

I have climbed the "rock pile" about 40 times – including winter solos. Word to the wise, when you hit tree line, if it is not a beautiful day, then turn around. Also, bring winter or cold weather gear, even in August – then no worries.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Craig Trottier

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