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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008
America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Kalalau Trail, Kauai, HI
Killer coastline
The Hike Pictures of the dramatic and lush Na Pali Coast stir hikers' wanderlust, but the Kalalau Trail hugging this dramatic coastline also triggers something far less romantic: terror. "People have a hard time with some of the dropoffs," says Kathy Valier, a Kauai resident who's written guidebooks on hiking the island. "The trail bed is narrow and crumbly, and I've talked with many people who have either fallen off the trail or seen it happen." The footing is twice as treacherous after the island's abundant rainfall turns the track into a greasy slip 'n slide–not amusing when you're edging along a 300-foot cliff that spills straight into a rocky surf. But despite such dangers, tons of locals and visitors continue to make the 11-mile (one way) pilgrimage to Kalalau, one of the world's most paradisical beaches.
Exhibit A "Surprisingly, we have not yet had a single confirmed fatality from somebody hiking or backpacking on the Kalalau Trail," says Alan Carpenter, an archaeologist for Hawaii State Parks. But there have been countless close calls: Hiking the trail with his daughter in 2006, a man slipped on an exposed section of trail and tumbled head-first down the slope, gaining speed as he neared the 300-foot cliff that would've dumped him into the surf. Lucky for him, his head smashed into a rock and arrested his fall. "The impact separated his nostrils from his face, but he survived," says Carpenter. Falling rock is also a risk at the various waterfalls along the trail: At Hanakapi'ai Falls, Hanakoa Falls, and near the campground at Kalalau, tumbling water erodes the volcanic rock and occasionally loosens boulders from the chasm's steep walls. On Oahu, the state closed Sacred Falls State Park after falling rocks near the cascades killed eight hikers, and Kauai, the oldest, most weathered of Hawaii's islands, generally experiences even more erosion. Flash floods can turn the many small streams you cross into raging torrents. And the beaches you pass offer no relief from your trials: Nearly 100 swimmers have perished in the dangerous currents at Hanakapi'ai.
Survival Plan Stay steady on the trail by using trekking poles, wearing deep-lugged shoes, and loading heavy items at the bottom of your pack to lower your center of gravity. Stay out of streams when it's raining, since debris jams can burst and release a sudden wall of water on hikers downstream. Floods on Kauai drop as fast as they rise, so wait out sudden whitewater rather than fording it–even if that means missing your flight.
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My sister died on this hike trying to cross the river, this place is deadly. She was fit and too young to die. How many more need to die before the Parks department seasonally closes these places during winter months? Will you be next, or someone you love?
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Just got back from the hike of a lifetime. The most beautiful place ive ever seen. The hike was a 7/10 in my opinion due to the continuous up and downs and mile 7-8 can get pretty scary the first time. Its all worth it when you get there...heven on earth= Kalalau Valley!
Yea did this trail this weekend in on saturday out on sunday. The cliffs shook me up real good going in but like the others say, give it time and extra respect. Hiking out I breezed through it and didn't even realizing it. I asked someone going in how much longer til I get to that part and was told that I was past it. ??? Ok but I still have the same respect for it. Going back soon. Views are fabulous. I couldn't sleep in the caves worrying about falling rocks but slept like a baby after moving out to the beach under the gorgeous starry sky. Yes pack light and bring water filter or tabs. I think summer months are better time to go but many have done it during other parts of the year. A must do for sure. Enjoy and take lots of pictures!
Cool trail, but I definitely wouldn't do it again without hiking boots or shoes (I actually saw some people wearing flip-flops). Even on a nice day, there are so many slick spots that can send you flying off the trail into the trees or rocks. Not for the skittish.
I did the Kalalau a couple of weeks ago as a dayhike. Took about 3.5 hours to do the 11 miles in, roughly 5 hours to make it out. Definitely not a dayhike if you're not in shape. The secret is traveling light. I passed many people with heavy packs, boots, etc -- I had a fanny pack and trail running shoes. You'll need to refill water at the streams in Hanakapiai, Hanakoa, and Kalalau, so bring a filter or purifying tablets. I was lucky to find the trail completely dry, so was a breeze compared to the more typical wet, slippery surface. I had hiked the trail to Hanakapiai and the falls at least a dozen times, so didn't feel bad about speeding through the first section. Made it to Hanakapiai in about 35 minutes, and Hanakoa in about 2 hours. I wouldn't recommend as a dayhike for first-timers -- you'll miss too much of the scenery trying to hurry. Highly recommended as a dayhike if you're up to it -- an experience I'll never forget. Don't believe the people who say that it can't be done -- I'm fifty years old.
I loved the scenery when I was on the trail I think others should hike on it. PS. I was just visiting.
I hiked the Kalalau in 1972 and it was a great experiance. Very few people along the way and not crowded at Kalalau beach. In the years in between I have hiked portions of it again several times. At one time the Sierra Club named it one of their Top Ten hikes for scenery and difficulty. My take on it is that I have seen so many people out there that are not prepared even on the portion to Hanakapiai. If there are only a couple of truthes it would be that you need proper footware (although I have seen at least two people do it barefoot, one carrying a surfboard)sun block and a hat but most importantly, lots of water! The cliff section simply requires patience and paying attention and anyone who has an aversion to heights probably should pass. There is a lot of "up-and-down" and the heat/sun/humidity can take it's toll. When you are on the exposed faces you pick up the breeze but the sun beats down, when you are back in the hanging valleys the humidity shots up. Almost no where is there flat level ground. Like many things in life, you have to choose if this is a hike for you but, if you go, you WILL remember the experiance forever! My first trip was forty years ago and I am returning, again, this summer and hiking the Kalalau at 63 years of age...can't wait!
I lived on the Napali coast back in 1973, with my girl Karen Olsen from Ancorage Alaska, what a magical place and time.
Just got back from Kauai and a hike on the Kalalau trail. I agree with a lot of the comments. It's a somewhat challenging trail (particularly in the rainy season), but doable and the views are incredible. We also saw whales. I would caution people to pack light but DO take food and water (I'm very glad we did and was surprised that some people didn't), have sturdy, comfortable worn-in shoes or boots with soles that keep their grip on wet rocks, use a hiking stick or two, take a poncho and a first aid kit for scrapes, and don't forget your camera. Next time I go I might take a lightweight nylon rope just for emergencies. The trail is reasonably safe but I have a healthy respect for its potential dangers. I had the time of my life and heartily recommend it, even though it rained on us much of the way and the trail did get slippery. My friend and I are experienced hikers in good physical condition so we had no falls or injuries of any kind, including blisters, but we did use hiking sticks and were cautious. By the way, we're women in our mid-50s.
My husband and I hiked this trail last year for our Honey Moon in April, we were extremly well prepared and in great physical condition. I can honestly say this trail is Amazing and incredible. Such an unbelievable experience. I did find it quite a difficult Hike as we had no rain at all, and the Sun was beating down the whole time. There are many, many steep inclines, and declines, as well as very very narrow areas along this trail that were exciting and scary at the same time. We did hike up in the the Kalalau Valley, we saw so many amazing sites, can accross old campsites with animals skulls, old camp spots with cups carved from wood etc.. Old firs pits etc.. really cools stuff to see all along and up int he Valley. We began our hike out of the Kalalau Beach area at 4am as we heard park rangers were coming to remove everyone as hunters would be coming that day to eradicate all the goats. The Hike to Hanakapi'ai took several hours, with many stops to filter more fresh water along the way. We stay the night at Hanakapi'ai falls, it was tough to set up camp as there were so many people camped out there, as well as we were sleeping in Hammocks and had trouble setting up due to all the large boulders everywhere fighting against us while setting up out little camp. My suggestion to any one attempting this trail, pack light, bring a portable but small water filtration system, (DO NOT DRINK FROM THE FALLS AS GOATS URINATE ETC.. IN THE WATER-it can be dangerous to your health) wear excellent hiking boots, bring a small rain jacket or poncho, be in your best physical shape you can be, and be prepared for anything mother nature throws your way. I would definitley suggest obeying at the signs stating that you should not enter the water or swim there, a lady did die, she was swept out to sea while were camping at Hanakapi'ai Falls Beach, very sad, but the signs are there for a reason. Most of all, ENJOY. It's such an incredible journey. If you don't want to hike in and out, there are fishermen out there that charge $100 a head to boat drop you into Kalalau Beach and you can Hike out. Just a thought.
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