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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008
Killer coastline
The Hike Pictures of the dramatic and lush Na Pali Coast stir hikers' wanderlust, but the Kalalau Trail hugging this dramatic coastline also triggers something far less romantic: terror. "People have a hard time with some of the dropoffs," says Kathy Valier, a Kauai resident who's written guidebooks on hiking the island. "The trail bed is narrow and crumbly, and I've talked with many people who have either fallen off the trail or seen it happen." The footing is twice as treacherous after the island's abundant rainfall turns the track into a greasy slip 'n slide–not amusing when you're edging along a 300-foot cliff that spills straight into a rocky surf. But despite such dangers, tons of locals and visitors continue to make the 11-mile (one way) pilgrimage to Kalalau, one of the world's most paradisical beaches.
Exhibit A "Surprisingly, we have not yet had a single confirmed fatality from somebody hiking or backpacking on the Kalalau Trail," says Alan Carpenter, an archaeologist for Hawaii State Parks. But there have been countless close calls: Hiking the trail with his daughter in 2006, a man slipped on an exposed section of trail and tumbled head-first down the slope, gaining speed as he neared the 300-foot cliff that would've dumped him into the surf. Lucky for him, his head smashed into a rock and arrested his fall. "The impact separated his nostrils from his face, but he survived," says Carpenter. Falling rock is also a risk at the various waterfalls along the trail: At Hanakapi'ai Falls, Hanakoa Falls, and near the campground at Kalalau, tumbling water erodes the volcanic rock and occasionally loosens boulders from the chasm's steep walls. On Oahu, the state closed Sacred Falls State Park after falling rocks near the cascades killed eight hikers, and Kauai, the oldest, most weathered of Hawaii's islands, generally experiences even more erosion. Flash floods can turn the many small streams you cross into raging torrents. And the beaches you pass offer no relief from your trials: Nearly 100 swimmers have perished in the dangerous currents at Hanakapi'ai.
Survival Plan Stay steady on the trail by using trekking poles, wearing deep-lugged shoes, and loading heavy items at the bottom of your pack to lower your center of gravity. Stay out of streams when it's raining, since debris jams can burst and release a sudden wall of water on hikers downstream. Floods on Kauai drop as fast as they rise, so wait out sudden whitewater rather than fording it–even if that means missing your flight.

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READERS COMMENTS
My husband and I hiked this trail last year for our Honey Moon in April, we were extremly well prepared and in great physical condition. I can honestly say this trail is Amazing and incredible. Such an unbelievable experience. I did find it quite a difficult Hike as we had no rain at all, and the Sun was beating down the whole time. There are many, many steep inclines, and declines, as well as very very narrow areas along this trail that were exciting and scary at the same time. We did hike up in the the Kalalau Valley, we saw so many amazing sites, can accross old campsites with animals skulls, old camp spots with cups carved from wood etc.. Old firs pits etc.. really cools stuff to see all along and up int he Valley. We began our hike out of the Kalalau Beach area at 4am as we heard park rangers were coming to remove everyone as hunters would be coming that day to eradicate all the goats. The Hike to Hanakapi'ai took several hours, with many stops to filter more fresh water along the way. We stay the night at Hanakapi'ai falls, it was tough to set up camp as there were so many people camped out there, as well as we were sleeping in Hammocks and had trouble setting up due to all the large boulders everywhere fighting against us while setting up out little camp. My suggestion to any one attempting this trail, pack light, bring a portable but small water filtration system, (DO NOT DRINK FROM THE FALLS AS GOATS URINATE ETC.. IN THE WATER-it can be dangerous to your health) wear excellent hiking boots, bring a small rain jacket or poncho, be in your best physical shape you can be, and be prepared for anything mother nature throws your way. I would definitley suggest obeying at the signs stating that you should not enter the water or swim there, a lady did die, she was swept out to sea while were camping at Hanakapi'ai Falls Beach, very sad, but the signs are there for a reason. Most of all, ENJOY. It's such an incredible journey. If you don't want to hike in and out, there are fishermen out there that charge $100 a head to boat drop you into Kalalau Beach and you can Hike out. Just a thought.
Posted: Jan 24, 2012 Rebecca Wilson
A must see film. 11 miles to paradise check it out now
Posted: Jan 19, 2012 11milestoparadise.com
Just got back from this trail. Did about 8 miles of it? until I came across a valley with nothing but slippery mud tracks and looked across to find 'the cliff'. A ledge trail with a 200ft drop on jagged rocks to the ocean below. Was wearing sneakers and was in the wet season, too much of a risk for me. So turned around and did the 8 miles back, all in the same day. Most of the trail isn't dangerous and difficult, except for that section, and probably only in the rainy season. My two cents.
Posted: Nov 04, 2011 Gerrit Kamps
I just completed the trail last month 10/14/11-10/16/11 with my fiance and I would give it a 7 out of 10 for difficulty. I felt that the Wonderland Trail in Washington was much more difficult day-to-day. I agree that the trail beat me up and the trail does have intimidating cliffs but you just take your time and walk on through. It took 8hrs and 50 minutes there and we did 5 miles the second day in 4 hrs and the third day we completed the remaining 6 miles in 4hrs. It did rain on the last day and we struggled slipping from rock to rock but that was only for 2 of the 22 miles. This trail is breathtaking and you need to see it once in your life. I have over 800 pictures of this trail and I had to make myself stop taking pictures. The reds and the greens and the blues of Kauai are something you need to see in person to understand it's true beauty. I brought good boots but I don't typically use poles because I don't like the feel. As usual we over packed and carried 40lbs each. Look for oranges on the final 10 mile marker. Just be smart and the trail is a 7/10. Ne stupid and yes it can be a 10/10.
Posted: Oct 30, 2011 Jamie Kosempa
I did this trail last Thanksgiving by myself. It was a spiritual experience for me. Yes I was battered & blistered but, I'm heading back in a month to do it again. This time I am bringing my Brother & Sister-in-law & a much lighter pack. I hope they find it as amazing As I.
Posted: Oct 29, 2011 Rusty
It always surprises me to see such vast opinions on this trail. Some swear they can run all 22 miles in 5-6 hours (yeah right), and others swear it is the most difficult and dangerous trail there is. I think the truth lies somewhere in between. I found nothing unnerving about the trail, and this is coming from someone who up until an Angel's Landing hike 2 years was deathly afraid of heights. The cliff section, as well as many portions with uneven/wet/rocky footing, just requires extra time. And yes trekking poles are an absolute must. So where I might not agree it is all that scary, I will agree it is very physically demanding. I did the trail in one day, and sunrise the next morning I headed back out. That was a little brutal. I did the 9.4 mile Cape Alava trail in Washington this summer and could have done that 3 times in one day and not been as tired. So for anyone who hasn't done the trail, it's not scary but it does deserve respect and extra time because it is very tiring and relentless.
Posted: Oct 17, 2011 nancy
Just returned from this "Bucket List" trail (10/2011). It is for advanced, intermediate backpackers with excellent route finding skills, and not out of shape novices (though that is the majority of the bumper-to-bumper throng you will encounter). Comparing it with the Grand Canyon NP trails, which I know quite well, it is slower going (allow 1/mph), more difficult/impossible footing (at frequent, obvious spots) and the soil is especially slippery and sticky when wet, like clay. Your "Survival Plan" is on target: Poles (yes, both), and giant lugged boots are essential. It is hot as blazes and seemed like 110% humidity, which should lessen the pack weight, but promote blistering and slow healing of abrasions. You will fall frequently, so plan for bruises, cuts or worse. Plentiful water sources are present (use a filter). There are not many signs along the way, so bring the most detailed USGS topo. Overall, I would have to say the scenery, though very beautiful, failed to measure up to the extraordinary hype. Don't expect solitude (it's crowded,like Yosemite Valley) or a life-altering experience and you will be happier.
Posted: Oct 06, 2011 Pappa Berry
How long is the cliff section? Miles? Minutes? Hoping to hike this trail in February, but the cliff section has me nervous! Thanks!
Posted: Sep 22, 2011 Heidi
I don't know how this trail made this list but I've seen some of the most out of shape people complete this trek in and out. And about not running and taking it slow, check out the Kalalau Challenge where people do just that. This trail has hundreds if not thousands trekking along the Napali each year with a near to nil deaths per year. Can you fall of the cliff? Yes. I would give the trail a 10/10 for spectacular views, 8/10 for maintenance, but a mere 5-6/10 and that's purely due to the fact that it is quite a climb throughout the 11 miles up and down as well as having to pack for the usual overnight stay. I have had friends run this trail in at night and return by sunrise. Clearly not a top 10 most dangerous trail in the entire Country.. maybe the Island but not even the State.
Posted: Sep 07, 2011 josh
I don't know how this trail made this list but I've seen some of the most out of shape people complete this trek in and out. And about not running and taking it slow, check out the Kalalau Challenge where people do just that. This trail has hundreds if not thousands trekking along the Napali each year with a near to nil deaths per year. Can you fall of the cliff? Yes. I would give the trail a 10/10 for spectacular views, 8/10 for maintenance, but a mere 5-6/10 and that's purely due to the fact that it is quite a climb throughout the 11 miles up and down as well as having to pack for the usual overnight stay. I have had friends run this trail in at night and return by sunrise. Clearly not a top 10 most dangerous trail in the entire Country.. maybe the Island but not even the State.
Posted: Sep 06, 2011 josh
I don't know how this trail made this list but I've seen some of the most out of shape people complete this trek in and out. And about not running and taking it slow, check out the Kalalau Challenge where people do just that. This trail has hundreds if not thousands trekking along the Napali each year with a near to nil deaths per year. Can you fall of the cliff? Yes. I would give the trail a 10/10 for spectacular views, 8/10 for maintenance, but a mere 5-6/10 and that's purely due to the fact that it is quite a climb throughout the 11 miles up and down as well as having to pack for the usual overnight stay. I have had friends run this trail in at night and return by sunrise. Clearly not a top 10 most dangerous trail in the entire Country.. maybe the Island but not even the State.
Posted: Sep 05, 2011 josh
you better be ready ,i've hiked the trail over a hundred times and it still kicks my butt,lots of uphill climbs ,steep muddy,slippery,dry ,hot windy,muggy, rainy it can have all of the above in the same day , but it is the most spiritual trail ever
Posted: Aug 24, 2011 surfer chris
We hiked the trail in January 2008, it was wet and muddy. Very hard, definitely need trekking poles. You need to take your time, so it's not something one can do running, but I can tell you it is spectacular. On one of the high switchbacks we saw whales playing near the coast, and as if nature was welcoming us a giant Rainbow spread from the beach at the start of the trail to the other side where we headed. It took us approximately 4 hours to get to the water crossing, and it was harder than we thought. The hike is worth every hour, every minute, every muddy fall. Just be prepared and cautious, Aloha!
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 Nelly Real / Plantation, FL
I'm heading back to Kauai next month for my 4th trek into Kalalau Valley. Anyone interested in making this trek should check out the following blog. It is full of great information on the trail and tips on making this the hike of your life!
http://www.kauaiexplorer.com/hiking_kauai/kalalau_hike.php#confirmation
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 Roger
I hiked the trail in June 2011 and I must say, it was the most challenging backpacking trip I've done yet, though looking back, I wasn't as mentally prepared as I should have been. the constant switchbacks are what killed me. it took us 11 hours to go one way, dont believe the people that tell you it only takes a few hours to go the whole 22 miles.. that seems like total insanity. There is no way I would have made the whole round trip in one day. The views were breathtaking, the beach was fantastic, the waterfall shower made all the blisters worth every ounce of pain. The friends made while hiking and camping are priceless, and the experience gained from nearly having a mental break down is quite valuable! i recommend this hike, but travel with caution and a water filter!
Posted: Jun 20, 2011 rosey
As Kaua'i resident born and raised, I urge people to always bring with them caution and respect for the trail. It is not an easy hike. It can be easier at some times than others, but never really liesurly. As far as the permit issue, it is very much true that there are enforcement officers there to check permits. :( You must always take your time and respect other hikers. This hike cannot be done in one day (both ways) you will need to camp if you do the whole 11 miles. Please do not come to Kaua'i with out respect and such a special place as Kalalau trail should not be taken lightly. Above all respect the land, respect your bodies and embrace it.
Thank you.
Posted: Apr 05, 2011 KawaiLehua
I had no idea this trail had such a reputation. I hiked it a couple times in the mid to late seventies as part of a Boy Scout trip. I'm surre we didn't attempt it during the rainy season though. I would love to go back someday before I am too old, it is like Eden.
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 John Henderson
Im not sure why people are exagerating this trail so terribly. Just hiked it last month during the rainy season. I hiked it at the worst time, and still found the trail to be hospitable. Youd have to be very slopy, or drunk to risk falling off of it. The bugs where not bad, it was surprisingly less slick than many Idaho trails Ive traversed. If youve backpacked in the mountains ever you will be easily prepared for this trail. It should not be rated as a hard trail. Use your common sense and you will be fine. Enjoy. P.S. saw no park rangers either.
Posted: Jan 26, 2011 starr
Some guy said that the police arrived every morning at 6:30 checking for permits. That is complete bullsh*t. He also said that people were given $500 fines. That is also a lie. If a ticket is issued there is no amount. One has to go to court where the judge determines the fine.
You can go months without seeing an enforcement ranger especially in the winter.
He is just trying to scare you.
Rich
Posted: Jan 14, 2011 Kalalau Joe
I just returned from makig my first hike into the Kalalau Valley and it was everything I'd been promised. Spent four nights, two at Honakoa and two in kalalau. There are signs of settlement everywhere, mostly old retaining walls built ages ago for growing taro but I was surprised just how extensive they were. The old walls extended two miles back up into the Kalalau Valley. These took generations to build and many of the stones are quite large. Hiking poles and good boots are a must if you're caring a pack. Nothing dries out in Honakoa. A side trip to Honakoa falls is a must!
Posted: Jan 10, 2011 Chris
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