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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008
Killer coastline
The Hike Pictures of the dramatic and lush Na Pali Coast stir hikers' wanderlust, but the Kalalau Trail hugging this dramatic coastline also triggers something far less romantic: terror. "People have a hard time with some of the dropoffs," says Kathy Valier, a Kauai resident who's written guidebooks on hiking the island. "The trail bed is narrow and crumbly, and I've talked with many people who have either fallen off the trail or seen it happen." The footing is twice as treacherous after the island's abundant rainfall turns the track into a greasy slip 'n slide–not amusing when you're edging along a 300-foot cliff that spills straight into a rocky surf. But despite such dangers, tons of locals and visitors continue to make the 11-mile (one way) pilgrimage to Kalalau, one of the world's most paradisical beaches.
Exhibit A "Surprisingly, we have not yet had a single confirmed fatality from somebody hiking or backpacking on the Kalalau Trail," says Alan Carpenter, an archaeologist for Hawaii State Parks. But there have been countless close calls: Hiking the trail with his daughter in 2006, a man slipped on an exposed section of trail and tumbled head-first down the slope, gaining speed as he neared the 300-foot cliff that would've dumped him into the surf. Lucky for him, his head smashed into a rock and arrested his fall. "The impact separated his nostrils from his face, but he survived," says Carpenter. Falling rock is also a risk at the various waterfalls along the trail: At Hanakapi'ai Falls, Hanakoa Falls, and near the campground at Kalalau, tumbling water erodes the volcanic rock and occasionally loosens boulders from the chasm's steep walls. On Oahu, the state closed Sacred Falls State Park after falling rocks near the cascades killed eight hikers, and Kauai, the oldest, most weathered of Hawaii's islands, generally experiences even more erosion. Flash floods can turn the many small streams you cross into raging torrents. And the beaches you pass offer no relief from your trials: Nearly 100 swimmers have perished in the dangerous currents at Hanakapi'ai.
Survival Plan Stay steady on the trail by using trekking poles, wearing deep-lugged shoes, and loading heavy items at the bottom of your pack to lower your center of gravity. Stay out of streams when it's raining, since debris jams can burst and release a sudden wall of water on hikers downstream. Floods on Kauai drop as fast as they rise, so wait out sudden whitewater rather than fording it–even if that means missing your flight.

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READERS COMMENTS
hiking into Kalalau Valley June 28, 29, 30 2009
I found a digital camera with a couples vacation pix. I would like to get this to them.
redross@bluemarble.net
Beautiful hike!
Posted: Oct 09, 2009 steve
Left Poipu at 6:15 AM Tuesday Sep 22 and arrived at the trail head at about 7:45. Hiked approximately six miles in then returned to the car by 11:30 AM. Comments: This was the first time hiking this trail in TEVA sandals and I was wishing I had brought my Vasque Sundowners! The trail is much too slippery for even lugged sandals. Second: a hiking staff is essential to maintain balance on this trail, which can be very narrow and extremely muddy. LAstly: I did not really sense much in the way of danger on this trail, but I hike in the Westesn US routinely. It is a most spectacular trail!
Posted: Sep 30, 2009 Scott McFeely
I just got back from anout and back day trip n the trail on August 9th. I hit the trail at 6:30am and made it out at 6:30pm with an hour break at kalalua beach. I had been training for the hike and was very prepared for the elevation gain/loss. The trip out was just another 11 mile hike, however the trip back was a little more of an effort. This is only because I was running low on water and cramping up as a result (my purifier malfunctioned). If it was not for the mistake in gauging the amount of water needed I would have considered this a difficult but doable day hike for serious hikers (and only serious hikers). To my blessing I was able to "beg" for water. The streams/rivers were low and it did not rain for most of the trip. I have read the stories about high winds and water and I am thankful that I experienced neither-- after all it's all about timing! Any questions, please look me up on Face book.
Posted: Aug 22, 2009 Randall Wallace
I just got back from anout and back day trip n the trail on August 9th. I hit the trail at 6:30am and made it out at 6:30pm with an hour break at kalalua beach. I had been training for the hike and was very prepared for the elevation gain/loss. The trip out was just another 11 mile hike, however the trip back was a little more of an effort. This is only because I was running low on water and cramping up as a result (my purifier malfunctioned). If it was not for the mistake in gauging the amount of water needed I would have considered this a difficult but doable day hike for serious hikers (and only serious hikers). To my blessing I was able to "beg" for water. The streams/rivers were low and it did not rain for most of the trip. I have read the stories about high winds and water and I am thankful that I experienced neither-- after all it's all about timing! Any questions, please look me up on Face book.
Posted: Aug 22, 2009 Randall Wallace
I hiked the last week of June 2009. I think the posts accurately reflect the trail. Conditions were dry, loose and dangerous in gravel slide areas. The trail can be fatiquing and hot, but it was worth the effort. There were times from late afternoon until next day mid morning when I encountered no others. Any mistakes made here, would leave you on your own. When you go, dont whine.
There are a gnarly bunch of "inhabitants" who we enjoyed meeting, some who regularly hike this trail barefoot and drink out of the streams(not recommended)
A week later in Lihue I met a detective who told us that Kalalau is a refuge of sorts for sometimes very unsavory characters. The Kalalau Valley is a remote and fairly inaccessable place, full of food, water, a subculture, and ideal conditions to grow pot. You wont find many cops out there.
Posted: Jul 25, 2009 steve
I've done this trail about 5 times, in all sorts of weather. As in, blazing hot to all out downpours. I think in general the trail is not overly dangerous, more than anything it's just a tiring journey with all the switchbacks up and down the whole way there. It's a beautiful ride though, so there are worse places to be tired. I've learned that the trail is as much of the journey than the final destination at the beach. When I first started doing this trail I use to try to get all the way in in one shot, thinking of only the end-game, now a days I take it easy and enjoy the views and embrace the journey in as much as anything. 8mi has a great bluff to camp out at where you can watch whales breaching, so usually I make it to there, camp the night and then hike all the way in, in the morning.
Now, back to the danger aspect, where you will find the most danger is around the 5mi mark, there is a river to cross there and after a rain storm or a couple of wet days the river can be high and finding footing in the river can be difficult. Oh, did I mention that there is a waterfall about 10 feet away? This will be your sketchiest moment. The river can be low on the way in, and high on the way out.
My wife who is a non-backpacker did the trail, cried the whole way. If you talk to her now about it, she'll tell you it was one of the best experiences she's ever done(and then tell how she cried the whole way)
T.
Posted: Jul 24, 2009 Todd
I've done this trail about 5 times, in all sorts of weather. As in, blazing hot to all out downpours. I think in general the trail is not overly dangerous, more than anything it's just a tiring journey with all the switchbacks up and down the whole way there. It's a beautiful ride though, so there are worse places to be tired. I've learned that the trail is as much of the journey than the final destination at the beach. When I first started doing this trail I use to try to get all the way in in one shot, thinking of only the end-game, now a days I take it easy and enjoy the views and embrace the journey in as much as anything. 8mi has a great bluff to camp out at where you can watch whales breaching, so usually I make it to there, camp the night and then hike all the way in, in the morning.
Now, back to the danger aspect, where you will find the most danger is around the 5mi mark, there is a river to cross there and after a rain storm or a couple of wet days the river can be high and finding footing in the river can be difficult. Oh, did I mention that there is a waterfall about 10 feet away? This will be your sketchiest moment. The river can be low on the way in, and high on the way out.
My wife who is a non-backpacker did the trail, cried the whole way. If you talk to her now about it, she'll tell you it was one of the best experiences she's ever done(and then tell how she cried the whole way)
T.
Posted: Jul 23, 2009 Todd
Did this hike with 50 pounds of gear (enough for my 3 weeks of travel) in chacos and foud it a little scary, but all in all not that bad. The exposed section is definitely the scariest bit, but if you are steady it is not an issue.
Posted: May 31, 2009 chris
This place is serious business. Don't make the mistake of believing that it is "no big deal." If you get in trouble, (which you easily could) your only salvation might be that so many people are coming through to dump trash in Hanakoa Valley. If you do go, stop to look up and around once in a while. Enjoy the beautiful walk!
Posted: May 14, 2009 MJM
way more people drown on the beaches then fall off the cliffs !!
Posted: Apr 08, 2009 Big Daddy
Just returned from hiking the Kalalau and Nu'alolo Trail, Awa'awapuhi and Nu'alolo Cliff Trail. My husband and I backpacked the entire island for ten days and logged close to 50 miles of trail hikes, canyon hikes, and all-around trekking. As a result, we carried packs and gear for ten days, and averaged 45 pound packs on all of the trails. Best piece of gear? Hands down, it is the Handpresso Wild. Care to brew a double shot espresso on the trail on the Napali Cliffs? I did! Check out my blog at http://titaniumpersonaltraining.blogspot.com and read all about it. :) Suffice it to say, we are experienced hikers, climbers and backpackers- and we did not find the trails daunting in the least. We explored the side-hikes to the waterfalls on the Kalalau and found it to be well worth the extra miles. The million dollar 360 degree views from our campsite at Kalalau Beach made the whole trip worthwhile. Tips for happy trail running: take a trekking pole. No need for two, because it's nice to have one hand free to grab for rocks on the cliffs in the ferocious headwind. We travel with a Mountain Hardwear Air Jet tent, and it has proven its worth, versatility, durability and usefulness in the tropics and the snows of glacier fields in Alaska. As for sleeping bags? We like Big Agnes sleeping systems, and the Lost Dog bag (mostly a lightweight sleep sheet) worked well for this climate. Packs down to the size of my fist, when compressed. Bring a good water filter- we met hikers who were airlifted off the trail after foolishly drinking straight from a waterfall. Our rating for the difficulty of the Kalalau Trail: 7 out of possible 10. Nu'alolo? 5 out of 10. Danger? Hey, I'm a mom with a small child. I wouldn't risk my life. Danger meter on the Kalalau never exceeded a 7.5, in my opinion. I am no adrenaline junkie, just a well-conditioned, strong Alaskan with a good perspective of what danger really is.
Posted: Apr 02, 2009 Ti Conkle
Did it in February in the rain....yeah it was tough but not as bad as some proclaim. I've seen some guys go 11 miles in and back in under 7 hours.
Posted: Mar 20, 2009 The Mechanic
Attempted the hike in late February 2009. I blew an ankle on a root at about mile 6 so we set up camp, waited a few days until I could walk, and then hiked out.
Although I only did the first 6 miles, I would say this trail was the most dangerous thing I have ever done by about two orders of magnitude. There were regular downpours while we were there so everything was slick and/or muddy. Some of the ledges were more streambeds than trails.
In my opinion, the "difficulty" of this trail really comes from its dangerousness. The trail isn't maintained and is literally sliding into the Pacific. Although a lot of people talk about the mile past Hanakoa as the dangerous part, there was no shortage of unprotected paths in the first 6 miles. I really couldn't believe it was considered safe to backpack. (And hiking out with a bum ankle was worse).
I really can't imagine that the risk v. reward calculous works out in favor of doing this hike. Granted, I never saw the "paradise" at the end. And, although the many scenic views I did get were good, they weren't worth the infinite increase in the likeliness of death. I think this trail is really the stuff for adrenaline junkies or mountain climbers.
A couple of other points: First, we really overpacked. We were set to be in for 5 nights and had 35lb backpacks. I would say skip the luxury items and use a superlight tent or tarp.
Second, even in winter, there was NO need for sleeping backs. Pick up a .25lb sleeping back liner and that should be enough.
Third, this is a jungle... It is going to rain. Sure, you might get lucky, but probably you will not. Take rainproof stuff.
Fourth, although everyone keeps saying to take lugged hiking boots, I think heavy boots might not be the best option. A lot of this hike is scrambling-ish, and I felt my Vasque Sundowners really inhibited my dexterity. Granted, I needed them for my pack weight and they probably save my ankle from surgery.
Fifth, poles. We did not take hiking poles. I did blow and ankle. I was terrified much of the time. I can't say for sure, but I bet poles would have helped.
Final thoughts: if you have a spouse or kids, this isn't the trail for you. If you absolutely have to do it, make sure your life insurance and disability insurance is in order. Seriously.
Posted: Mar 03, 2009 mike
My wife and I hiked the first 3 1/2 miles of this trail. The trail was wet, muddy, and a mass of tangled roots, made even more dangerous by the mud. One friend lost his footing, fell off the trail, dropping faster and faster toward a cliff. By the grace of God, a tree limb impailed his forearm,which later required multiple major surgeries,but the limb help arresting his fall before he plunged off the cliff.
Posted: Mar 01, 2009 John Nichols
Actually I feel the most "difficult" hike on Kauai is down to Wailua Falls.The most dangerous, Kalalau Trail. The Nualolo Cliffs Trail may be higher, but the dangerous part last maybe 50 feet. The Kalalau Trail almost a mile of tricky hiking. I have lots of pictures and videos at...
http://www.condosinkauai.com/All_Kauai_Sites.html
Posted: Feb 23, 2009 Chuck
read the comments ..all were there just after us.. the last comment...thats the part we did twice...the cliff trail we got lost on!!!!!!
***sorry I thought this was going to the above address... please ignore...
Posted: Dec 11, 2008 gayle
read the comments ..all were there just after us.. the last comment...thats the part we did twice...the cliff trail we got lost on!!!!!!
Posted: Dec 11, 2008 gayle
We just completed the trail last week (Nov 8-12, 2008). It was absolutely amazing. I read the article about the 10 most difficult hikes after we had purchased our airfare and permits for the trip and my wife gave me a hard time about it. I was cautiously optimistic about the ability of each of the members of our four-person party. I had completed several moderate to difficult practice hikes carrying 35-40lbs (60lbs when I carried my wife's pack). My wife, who doesn't have quite as much time, or desire, to dedicate to hiking, did 3 practice hikes (3-5 miles) with a 20-25lb pack on easy to moderate trails. She was the least physically prepared but, with some great conversation to keep her mind off the difficult trail, she was able to complete the hike without serious pain. The wife of the other couple had never backpacked except for a few practice hikes and had extremely minimal camping experience. We convinced her that she could be comfortable sleeping on the Exped 7 Downmat ~$140. She runs quite a bit so she was physically able to do the trip. Just make sure your backpack is fitted to your body by a professional. What a trooper.
The most important piece of equipment we took were the trekking poles (we had Leki Ultralight poles ~$110). The poles greatly increased our stability and confidence as we crossed the trail.
We were extremely fortunate that there was no rain the entire time we were there and, although the trail was slick the first mile or two, it wasn't the mud bog we were warned about. Also, none of the rivers were impassible as we have read horror stories about high waters.
I was concerned about the narrow trail on the cliffs because of what I had read. That part of the trail (mile 7-8) is on the dry side and not slick at all when we were there. What was interesting is that my wife felt comfortable enough to take out the camera and snap pictures of us coming up behind her. That made me nervous as she was turning around with her pack on, but it just pointed out that there was more room on the cliff than I was led to believe. The most difficult part, in my opinion, was the portion where the trail is sloped, loose dirt just before the "balcony". I was grateful for the trekking poles. I never feared for my life, I just knew we had to be careful. This part of the trail seems to be receiving care by volunteers.
Another great piece of equipment I was grateful for was the Sea to Summit ultralite microfiber XL towel ~$32. The sand is easily cleaned off of it and it dries very quickly.
I would not have even tried the hike had I not read about it in Backpacker magazine about 6 months ago. What a great place to visit. ENJOY!
Posted: Nov 19, 2008 BJ
can u give me some info about the most dangerous island in America
Posted: Nov 19, 2008 soran
I went with my son's Boy Scout troop when they hiked Kalalau in 2005 and I consider it to be the very best hike in the state. There is really only one spot that I thought was dangerous; where you are contouring along the above-mentioned cliffside about a mile past Hanakoa. The rest of the trail is fairly strenuous, but I don't consider to be very dangerous. I agree that trekking poles and lugged soles are a must, especially if carrying a heavy pack. To me the Waimano Ridge trail on Oahu has far greater exposure to falling off trails with 500 foot-plus sheer drops.
Posted: Nov 15, 2008 Neil Okuna
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