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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Buckskin Gulch, UT

Gambling in the slots

by: Kelly Bastone

The Danger Scale key

The Hike No one's died here–yet. But the odds mount every time a dark cloud crosses the sky. This tortuously twisting sandstone bottleneck is the longest, deepest slot canyon in the Southwest (and probably the world). Its narrow walls carve a 12-mile gash through the southern Utah desert, although most hikers bypass the first of those pinched miles by starting at Wire Pass, a tributary that enters Buckskin from the south and plunges them right into its tightest squeeze. The extended exposure to flash flood danger makes Buckskin one of the country's most dangerous slots: Rarely more than 10 feet wide, the eerie corridor is 400 feet deep at its junction with the Paria River. Most chilling: The entire length of sandstone wall is virtually insurmountable–except for a single escape hatch at the Middle Route, about 8 miles in from Wire Pass. Should thunderstorm-bloated flood waters come charging down the tunnel, you're no better than a bug in a firehose.

Exhibit A Not only is it long, but Buckskin also drains a big watershed. Streams all across the Paria Plateau funnel into this slot, where the smooth rock walls support little vegetation that would slow the onslaught of water. The combination of big flows and polished passage results in floods with massive force, and Buckskin's narrow dimensions allow the torrent nowhere to go but up: Waters here can swell from zero to 20 feet deep in mere minutes. "We've never lost anybody," says ranger Michael Salamacha–but they've come close. A few hikers have gotten trapped but miraculously managed to climb above the water. "They were lucky to be near one of the few ledges," Salamacha says.

Survival Plan It's impossible to know for sure where or when storms may strike, but hedge your bets by checking weather updates; noaa.gov issues the region's most accurate flood forecasts. Avoid Buckskin from July through mid-September, when afternoon storms shower water through the slots. Should you hear water thundering upon you, "Try to scramble up or out," advises Rich Carlson of the American Canyoneering Association. "It's surprising how many little ledges and ripples you can climb when your life depends on it." Failing that, secure yourself to something: Hikers in other canyons have survived by clinging to debris wedged between the walls. Should the current take you, ride the flood like whitewater, feet downstream and elbows in. Says Carlson, "Hopefully, you're wearing a helmet, because you're going to be a pinball."

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READERS COMMENTS

I hiked solo from the Wire Pass TH to the White House TH on Saturday and did not come across a single person all day. This is an amazing hike and a great experience. I was so busy taking photos over the first several hours that I had to pick up the pace slightly (and take less photos) after getting to the Middle Route. I left around 8:00 AM, and the entire hike took just over 10 hours.

I arranged shuttle service through Steve Dotson at Paria Outpost (a good guy), and he was on time at White House TH. Michael Kelsey -- the author of several well-known books on the area -- was at the WH TH that morning and getting ready for a hike down the Paria.
Posted: Sep 01, 2009 WB

We are planning a backpacking trip into buckskin. Our group wants to make it to the confluence the first day. Is that doable? We are all in good health and shape, but it is 14 miles. Could you e-mail with the pros and cons of this? thanks
Posted: Aug 26, 2009 darla wright

Narrow to be sure and less ability to escape than most, but there are numerous spots that widen out a little bit, many with sand hills high enough to escape many flood emergencies (although a big enough flood would likely erode these away), but there are also mile or longer stretches with nowhere to go. Also, Buckskin originates some 40 miles away at the southern flank of Bryce Canyon, so there could be major storms feeding it with sunny skies above, and it takes approx 15 hours(??, ask rangers) for water to drain from up there to Buckskin, so it could have rained early the night before and come down and swamp you on a beautiful day with no rain predicted. Not dangerous if planned well and done at the right time. Check with rangers the morning you depart in addition to the NOAA forecast.Also, it's actually 16 miles from Buckskin TH to the confluence with the Paria and 13 from the Wire Pass TH to the Paria, not 12 for the whole length as mentioned above. And if you want to spend any kind of time enjoying and taking pictures, start at daybreak. Parts can be slow going, and I didn't even have to wade through a puddle last spring (a rarity in this slot, but it's been several years of drought conditions). Most years, up to a mile wade or even swim in brackish cold water is to be expected.
Posted: Nov 18, 2008 Jon Ferguson

When I went through Buckskin I walked under huge clumps of flash flood debris (a ton or so of logs, brush, rocks, ect). I couldn't touch these clumps with my extended arm and staff. One of the best hikes I ever made.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Eric Johnson

My brother, Leland Howard, and I hiked from the Wire Pass tributary canyon into Buckskin Gulch. An other-worldly experience, that's for certain. We included the hike in our book "Utah's Wilderness Areas: The Complete Guide" and my brother posted some of the images on www.wildernessbooks.com. Enjoy.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Lynna Howard

I've done the Paria hike twice - once from Buckskin Gulch trailhead, the other from White House. The petrogylph wall at the confluence of Wire Pass and Buckskin is amazing, and will never forget the scenary, isolation, and peace.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Derek

This is a beautiful hike with a great panel of rock art at the junction of Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Firekeeper