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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ

Baked or broiled?

by: Kelly Bastone


The Hike Trekking from rim to river (and back) is one of the planet's iconic journeys, an achievement nearly every Grand Canyon visitor longs to notch. Trouble is, canyon temps routinely top 110°F in summer, and that hellish heat–combined with the exertion of climbing 4,380 vertical feet over 9.5 miles–results in about 200 heat-related rescues in the park each year, most of them on the Bright Angel Trail. In fact, a spate of deaths 10 years ago prompted the creation of PSAR (Preventative Search and Rescue), a team of rangers that patrols the Bright Angel Trail, assessing individual hikers, dispensing water to the suffering, and urging the unprepared to seek safety.

Exhibit A At 120°F, brain cells burst like tiny egg sacks, spilling their thick, salty fluid in thousands of deadly hemorrhages. Before that happened, 28-year-old Avik Chakravarty–who died here in July 2005–would have experienced cramps, scorching thirst, and hallucinations. His error: climbing up in the midafternoon heat. It's one that's easy to make on the Bright Angel Trail, which departs from the South Rim's commercial cluster. That convenience attracts scores of impulsive hikers who find that going down is easy–but climbing up is torturous. "The death zone is between the river and Indian Gardens, about halfway up," says Michael Ghiglieri, a Colorado River guide and co-author of Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. The dark grey schist at lower elevations absorbs and radiates heat like a cast-iron frying pan, so when thermometers read 110°F in the shade at Phantom Ranch, hikers endure 130°F ground temps on the trail. Most people try to escape the inferno by hurrying along, which exacerbates heat illness. Explains Ghiglieri, "People feel so hideous they keep going to get it over with, instead of resting."

Survival Plan Start hiking down in the mild temps before dawn. At the bottom, cool off in the creek. Carry lots of water–Ghiglieri recommends drinking five to six liters on the round-trip–and pace yourself on the ascent. "Don't just go steadily until you drop dead," he warns. "Rest for 15 minutes of every hour you climb." Even better, delay your return until evening, and finish your hike by headlamp.



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READERS COMMENTS

Luke, I think you'll be fine concerning heights. I don't recall anything being too narrow. Your biggest concern is having enough water and pacing.
Posted: Feb 04, 2012 Brooks

I did the entire round trip route starting at south kaibab, spent 30 minutes dipping my head in the Colorado river passed phantom ranch, and then made my way up bright angel. I did the entire thing in 10 hours in mid July. It was the most miserable hike I've ever done, but the most rewarding. I've done 3 of the to 10, this one was the most strenuous because of the heat factor, as well as the mental stability. I was wearing a dark blue shirt. By the time I was near the top I was beginning to hallucinate, so I rested. Bruised, chaffed, thirsty, and weak, I pushed myself towards the last mile stretch. A ranger near the top pulled me aside and said "look at your shirt", I looked and it was pitch white. All the sodium in my bloodstream had seeped out through my pores. She provided some saltiness crackers, and within 10 minutes I felt a boost of energy. I have never rushed to grab ice cream so fast in my life. The next day, I was sick as a dog. Ha!

If you are planning on doing that entire round trip, make sure you are prepared, mentally and physically. One of the worse parts was going 4 miles that looked like you were near the top, only to get over the ridge and notice you've got another 3 miserable miles to ascend.. You need to mentally prepare to push yourself. Also, bring as much water as you can possibly carry.
Posted: Feb 04, 2012 Brooks

Question: I have heard that hiking the Bright Angel presents hazards for people with fear of heights . . . anything to this? I tend to freeze when too close to an edge and am leery about climbing out of the canyon . . . does anyone ever fall to death from the Bright Angel? Also: how wide are the paths, and how far are the paths from the edge of the canyon? Thanks for your help!

Luke
Posted: Jan 10, 2012 Luke Hampson

Question: I have heard that hiking the Bright Angel presents hazards for people with fear of heights . . . anything to this? I tend to freeze when to close to an edge and am leery about climbing our of the canyon . . . does anyone ever fall to death from the Bright Angel? Also: how wide are the paths, and far from the edge of the canyon? Thanks for your help!

Luke
Posted: Jan 10, 2012 Luke Hampson

In August, 1965, my father,43, me, 15, and my brother, 13, hiked down the South Kaibab trail. Although, at the time, I only knew it as the Kaibab trail. We arrived at Phantom Ranch to find no one. We ate lunch at the picnic area near the river. We hiked out the Bright Angel trail. It was a long day. We drank a lot of water. I don't recall seeing anyone on the way down the Kaibab trail. On the way out the Bright Angel trail, we pass some young hikers wearing flipflops. Also, we passed a rescuer on a horse with two horses going down to Indian Gardens for someone that had given out. That made me determined to make it out on my own. At the time, 1965, we had no idea that this was such a strenuous hike.
Posted: Dec 10, 2011 WalksSlow

Just after Labor Day this year we hiked down the South Kaibab, stayed at Bright Angel Campground 2 nights, then hiked back up the Bright Angel trail. There were four in our group, aged 30, 36, 42 and 72. We all did it with little trouble. But we took it nice and easy. It took us 11 hours to go up the Bright Angel from Phantom Ranch - we spent a nice time resting at Indian Gardens and stopped alot along the way to rest, take pictures, eat snacks. Overall, the trip was not as difficult as I had expected, but perhaps that was because we were well prepared and in no hurry. And we savored every minute of it! I did not envy those folks racing by us, trying to make it out in record time. What's the point? I came to the canyon to enjoy it, not beat it.
Posted: Nov 19, 2011 Christina

I hike from North to South at the end of every Sept. and it is warm that time of year, I can only imagine how hot it is in July or August.
I have done that hike 6 times, plus once south to north.
When I get asked for advice the 2 things I tell the most are - make sure you are in great shape. There is nothing to prepare you mentally for the last 4.5 miles hiking up from Indian Gardens, you just have to hope that you are in great physical shape.
The other advice I give people is to enjoy the hike, you will be looking UP at the Canyon, most look down into it.
(Then I go into drinking enough water or Gatorade, and bringing enough food)
Posted: Sep 06, 2011 Matt

I just did the BAT south rim-river-south rim on 14 Aug 2011, starting at 5:50am and finishing at 2:49pm. A pre-dawn thunderstorm left skies cloudy for the descent, but as I was sticking my foot in the chilly CO River, I turned to see blue sky...and that familiar bright orb. I wasted no time and turned around, knowing that the mild 70 degrees I experienced at Indian Gardens would soon be a distant memory. The Corkscrew was brutal, and I had no choice but to take my first stop at Indian Gardens on the return. It was at this point I noticed a blister had formed on the bottom of my right foot, which, combined with the heat, made for a slow slog uphill the rest of the way. At age 52, I know my fastest days are well behind me, but my experience in ultramarathon cycling has taught me that just keeping going (even slowly) is better than not going at all. I took 2 short breaks after IG, and steadily climbed, reaching the top one minute shy of 9 hours total. My trip menu consisted of a Clif Bar one giant pre-packed dill pickle, and 6 litres of fluid (half of which was doctored up with Endurolytes Fizz. This is a challenging hike, but not as tough as some say. Basic preparation is necessary, along with base training and an early start. It is very doable...even for middle-aged guy like me.
Posted: Aug 16, 2011 Nick

Five friends and I hiked from North Rim to South Rim on July
Fourth, 2000. The temps mentioned in this article are NOT an exaggeration. The temp in the inner gorge was 120 degrees, which means that the water we carried was also 120. We did everything right (left early, took breaks ,carried high energy snacks, refilled water at every opportunity, took a long break @ Phantom Ranch and in BA Creek) and two people still had trouble in the Devils Corkscrew. We helped them up to Indian Gardens, which proved to be, literally, a life saver. There we rehydrated, refueled, and waited for the BAT to become shaded by the rim. I strongly recommend that anyone considering this hike do it during cooler weather.
Posted: Aug 12, 2011 Ranger Rob

My aunt and I hiked down the S. Kaibab Trail to the Bright Angel Campground in late April, 2010. We camped there a couple of days and hiked back up the Bright Angel Trail. The weather that time of year was great... cool in the morning at the rim and very warm in the afternoon at the river.

The campgrounds at the river were very nice... peaceful and scenic with wildflowers all around and the sound of the raging Bright Angel Creek running next to the campsites.

The biggest challenge was avoiding the mule droppings heading back up the BAT!

This is far from my favorite hike, after hiking many times in Utah, but I just had to be able to say I had done it!
Posted: Aug 12, 2011 Steve

I will be hiking this trail again for the 8th time. This Saturday for the fullmoon. I hike down the SK trail to phantom ranch. Then up the bright angle trail. This is my 3rd time making this same trip. I do this annualy. It is so spiritual hiking in the fullmoon. It is very hot once you get to Phantom Ranch and it stays very Hot until you reach Indian garden. 90's at night. My advise always plan ahead and know your trail. Check weather forcast and bring plenty of water and food. Flashlight and first aid kit even if your not planning on being out long.
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 Brian Thompson

In my early twenties a friend and I hiked down and back in a day during the summer. That section below Indian Gardens was punishing. I am now in my fifties and still remember that trip as one of the best. The thing that really helped with the heat was some large dill pickles that I had brought along. They were individually sealed in plastic packages. The salt and great flavor gave us a real boost. I still carry dill pickles on my hot weather trips.
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 Titus

I've always hiked The Canyon in winter months, usually January or February, when the upper mile or two are icy and snow-packed. I began using "Stabilicers" (mini-crampons), and what a difference that made!
Even in winter, there are rattle snakes lower down in the canyon, so don't forget to be alert. I once travelled really light with just my sleeping bag for the night, but after meeting 2 rattlers on the BAT, I slept on the picnic table in my campsite. I sure missed my sleeping pad.
I like to descend via the BAT, then ascend the Kaibab. Love going through the tunnel in the early-morning darkness.
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 Jill

One comment about drinking lots of water -- avoid hyponatremia (reduction of normal sodium levels in your body by excessive consumption of water) by including electrolytes in your drinks. Hyponatremia can create serious problems and place you in jeopardy. In lieu of liquid electrolytes, you can consume Saltines or other salty snacks.
Posted: Jul 20, 2011 Scott Williams

I hiked this trail around July 4th and around Labor Day. Labor day is a MUCH better time to do it.
Posted: Jul 15, 2011 Robert

We hiked the South Kaibab Trail from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch and then the North Kaibab Trail up to the North Rim in one day earlier this week. The weather was quite cool and windy - in fact, it snowed the next morning at both rims. The hike was a sensational experience but very challenging, even with training in advance. No one has mentioned poles, but I felt the poles were critical to completing the hike, especially on the steep switchbacks going up. For anyone who has not used them, the poles allow you to transfer some of your physical effort to the upper body and takes some of the stress off your legs. And, having done the hike, I would not attempt the rim-to-rim in a day hike in hot weather. Temperatures in the inner canyon portion were only in the mid-80s, but even that made us feel overheated in that portion. Altogether a great experience, but one that requires a lot of advance planning, good equipment, and luck.
Posted: May 20, 2011 BarbAZ

The BAC is pretty spectacular in the fall and winter - done it top to bottom twice (Jan and Oct 2008). I'm in agreement with the others here - no sense in torturing yourself during the summer. The locals don't. Plan an October trip and enjoy.
Posted: May 14, 2011 Mike K

So if you are going to hike in the summer you must get a very early start both going down and coming out, most importantly going down because the temperature rises 3.5 degrees for every thousand feet you descend not to mention the day gets much hotter as it goes on. Both are working against you in the summer. Don’t be afraid to just lay completely immersed in the creek and river, they are literally a life savior. You are never more than two or three miles from the creek or river below Indian Gardens. Bottom line don’t find yourself in between Indian Gardens and Phantom Ranch between 11 and 6 or you are seriously chancing death; plenty of water or not.
Posted: Apr 29, 2011 Ryan

I have backpacked the GC 15 times. Always from Late Oct to March. It is wonderful weather then. I live in the heat of Tucson and see NO enjoyment in hiking the GC in the summer. Do your homework and hike it when you can enjoy it.
When it is cold, one can always put more clothes on. When it is 100+ not much you can do about it.
My 2 cents from someone who lives in the desert heat.
Posted: Jan 04, 2011 Mike Madigan

Try the canyon in the Winter. I hiked in January down the South Kaibab and up the Bright Angel after spending the night in the canyon. We had the place to ourselves - it was beautiful and weather was fine. Start off with snow and in the 30's up top but much warmer (50's) down in the canyon. The only thing you will need are some cheap crampons and warmer clothes.
Posted: Jan 02, 2011 Danielle Downs

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