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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon - America's Most Dangerous Hikes

Baked or broiled?

by: Kelly Bastone


The Hike Trekking from rim to river (and back) is one of the planet's iconic journeys, an achievement nearly every Grand Canyon visitor longs to notch. Trouble is, canyon temps routinely top 110°F in summer, and that hellish heat–combined with the exertion of climbing 4,380 vertical feet over 9.5 miles–results in about 200 heat-related rescues in the park each year, most of them on the Bright Angel Trail. In fact, a spate of deaths 10 years ago prompted the creation of PSAR (Preventative Search and Rescue), a team of rangers that patrols the Bright Angel Trail, assessing individual hikers, dispensing water to the suffering, and urging the unprepared to seek safety.

Exhibit A At 120°F, brain cells burst like tiny egg sacks, spilling their thick, salty fluid in thousands of deadly hemorrhages. Before that happened, 28-year-old Avik Chakravarty–who died here in July 2005–would have experienced cramps, scorching thirst, and hallucinations. His error: climbing up in the midafternoon heat. It's one that's easy to make on the Bright Angel Trail, which departs from the South Rim's commercial cluster. That convenience attracts scores of impulsive hikers who find that going down is easy–but climbing up is torturous. "The death zone is between the river and Indian Gardens, about halfway up," says Michael Ghiglieri, a Colorado River guide and co-author of Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. The dark grey schist at lower elevations absorbs and radiates heat like a cast-iron frying pan, so when thermometers read 110°F in the shade at Phantom Ranch, hikers endure 130°F ground temps on the trail. Most people try to escape the inferno by hurrying along, which exacerbates heat illness. Explains Ghiglieri, "People feel so hideous they keep going to get it over with, instead of resting."

Survival Plan Start hiking down in the mild temps before dawn. At the bottom, cool off in the creek. Carry lots of water–Ghiglieri recommends drinking five to six liters on the round-trip–and pace yourself on the ascent. "Don't just go steadily until you drop dead," he warns. "Rest for 15 minutes of every hour you climb." Even better, delay your return until evening, and finish your hike by headlamp.



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READERS COMMENTS

Star Star Star Star Star
Dr Phun
Apr 20, 2013

It's not tha bad at the right time of year with a little common sense. Most people shouldn't try to do out and back in the same day. Be especially careful in the summer months. I did it in May when it was 30 degrees at the top in the morning and 100 degrees at the bottom when we got there. I don't want to imagine what it would be like in July.

Your condition and expereience makes a difference. We met a nice family at the phantom ranch and hiked out with them. They had an elderly relative with them from Austria. He lived in the mountains there. No joke, he was wearing khakies, a sweater and loafers and we didn't have a chance of keeping up with him.

When you are coming back up, you can tell when you are near the top because you start running into people with flip flops and no water in the last mile. I can't remember how many asked us if they were almost to the bottom.

Star Star Star Star Star
Jason
Apr 18, 2013

My brother and I hiked the Bright Angel Trail to the Bright Angel Campground several years ago and the hiked out the next day. We went to the orientation before we took off and they definitely painted a clear picture of the fact that the canyon can kill you if you don't respect it. We drank a liter of water per hour, refueling at Indian Gardens, and the only problems I had were with three of those huge squirrels at Indian Gardens that tried to take me down for a bag of peanuts I was eating. I slept under the stars that night and woke up to something warm and fuzzy on my head. Since I don't have anything fuzzy on my head to begin with, I became a little concerned. When I moved to check it out, whatever it was took off into the bushes. I was a little disappointed, because it was keeping my head warm. By far, this is one of the best hikes I've ever done. I loved it so much that I almost relocated to Flagstaff so I could do the whole canyon. One day I'll get back there.

Star Star Star Star Star
Bill
Apr 18, 2013

I have hiked the Canyon in every season. I would strongly recommend the Bright Angel trail as the best trail for exiting the Canyon because it is the least strenuous. Most well conditioned hikers can make it out using that trail. I would strongly advise against hikes to the river during the summer. The last time I did it it was 108 at the river! We left Phantom Ranch at 4:00AM the next day and were out about 10:30 with a rim temp of 70 something. The inner gorge near the river was very warm, even very early. I live in Phoenix so I'm conditioned to the heat. If you are not, stay out of the Canyon in the summer!

Star Star Star Star Star
Bill
Apr 18, 2013

I have hiked the Canyon in every season. I would strongly recommend the Bright Angel trail as the best trail for exiting the Canyon because it is the least strenuous. Most well conditioned hikers can make it out using that trail. I would strongly advise against hikes to the river during the summer. The last time I did it it was 108 at the river! We left Phantom Ranch at 4:00AM the next day and were out about 10:30 with a rim temp of 70 something. The inner gorge near the river was very warm, even very early. I live in Phoenix so I'm conditioned to the heat. If you are not, stay out of the Canyon in the summer!

Star Star Star Star Star
Keith
Apr 18, 2013

I graduated from high school in Flagstaf Arizona about 80 miles south of Grand Canyon. Have done a LOT of hiking in Grand Canyon. I read one commenter who said he never needed electrolyte supplements. A piece of advice, you will never need it as long as you USE it. It's the key to safe hiking in Summer in the canyon. Winter is usually not a problem. Someone else mentioned salt tablets. That's an old time (circa 1950's) solution to excessive sweating. Salt tablets work, just barely, IF dissolved in water first, don't swallow salt tablets undissolved. Use Gatoraide, it tastes a lot better than salt water. It's the best thing since sliced bread, ask the rescue rangers.

Star Star Star Star Star
Jim the desert rat
Apr 18, 2013

Kaibab's Law: It takes roughly twice as long to drag your ass out of the Grand Canyon as it took to stroll in.

Star Star Star Star Star
AZ Hiker
Apr 18, 2013

Day-hiking into the Grand Canyon is on many people's bucket list but kicking the bucket while hiking there usually isn't! Many people die in the canyon each year for a variety of reasons; one of them being that some hikers are unprepared for the experiences they encounter there. Sure, a lot of people hike there almost every day of the year but there are still those hikers who get lost and either barely or don't make it out alive. Read Felix! the Sugar Glider Be Safe Hike Smart (Amazon) before you hit the trail for a day-hike. Felix! teaches the reader what to pack, what to do if you get lost or scared, how to get rescued, and survival packing just incase you end up unexpectedly spending the night in the canyon. Learn how to navigate your way by paying attention to your surroundings and knowing how to use a compass. A compass doesn't need batteries or satellites and works in all types of weather but you need to know how to use it and this book makes learning how to use a compass easy. Your Grand Canyon adventure should be the thrill of a lifetime so make it more enjoyable by hiking smart and having the essentials with you!

Star Star Star Star Star
Parish
Mar 30, 2013

We took a fantastic road trip that culminated (on Aug 18-my boyfriend's 50th bday) with a hike into the Grand Canyon. We called the ranger's station months in advance and did everything they suggested. We spent months preparing by doing practice hikes (especially in the heat) on difficult hiking trails (like Government Canyon) wearing exactly what we would be wearing in the Grand Canyon; broke in some excellent boots in the process. We wore army surplus fatigue pants, long-sleeved cotton shirts (the cotton helps retain your body sweat and stay cool in the dry climate), boony hats, 8-inch lace-up (to protect against snakes and scorpions) gortex boots (for in the event of a flash flood-luckily there wasn't one), neck coolers (which we soaked in the springs periodically on the way back up),and fingerless cycling gloves (for a better grip on our poles and to avoid blisters).
We brought extra socks and changed them at the half way point (to avoid blisters and heat rash). We each had a fully loaded day pack with 100oz camelbaks, four bottles of gatoraid, nuts, peanut butter sandwiches, tangerines, dried fruit, beef jerky, pretzels, etc.... We also carried army surplus rain ponchos that could be used to make a temporary tent shelter in the even of rain (August is the monsoon month). Of course we carried a steripen, first aid kit, sunblock, chapstick, utility knives, small hand held LED flashlights with extra batteries, clip on LED flashlights, a blacklight flashlight (to detect scorpions and black widow spiders (two types of scorpions in the Grand Canyon; the smaller of which is the more deadly), emergency dry rations, etc.... My pack weighed about 20lbs and my boyfriend's pack weighed about 40; but I weigh 100lbs and he weighs 170. We also carried a couple of 1 liter bottles of water to give to anyone that might need it (a lot of idiots hike this trail).
We made our way to the South Kaibab trail head at 5:00am (coyotes were howling all around, but we never saw any) and got to Phantom Ranch by 10:am. We stayed hydrated, drinking water every few minutes even though we weren't thirsty. Every 45 minutes, we stopped and rested for 15 minutes, ate some food even though we weren't hungry, took some photos, laid down and put our feet up. It was a wonderful hike down. We felt great! We picked up some sack lunches (you must call ahead and reserve food at the ranch); anyone can do it, you don't have to reserve a cabin nor a camp site. You can reserve breakfast, lunch (sack lunches), and dinner (either steak or vegetarian chili). After lunch, we waded in the creek and then took a nap before dinner. The steak dinner was really good, but we are light eaters and probably could have split one (they are huge). After dinner, we filled up our water bladders at the spring tap and waded in the creek some more (the 60-odd degree water feels amazing in contrast with the 130 degree oven of the bottom of the canyon in August). We slept until 2:00am, got up and hiked up Bright Angel Trail. We did it the same way that we did the South Kaibab, lots of breaks, adequate hydration, etc.... Even with a half-moon it was pretty dark (the stars were amazing, wish I could have photographed them), so we clipped the LED lights on our hat brims and used the hand-held flash lights to periodically check the trail further ahead. The clip on LED lights provided some added entertainment...tons of moths were fluttering all around us; one must have had a wing-span of 4-6 inches-about the size of a small bat. All the moth activity soon had bats zooming all around us. The giant moth wasn't around long ;o)
We got to the Indian gardens as the sun was coming up; it was beautiful! Got some great pictures of mule deer feeding on the foliage and the mule supply team headed down to the ranch. BTW, if you're hiking at night and worry that you may deviate from the trail, just follow the smell of mule poop and you'll be fine ;0) That was a running joke on the hike out.
We got to the top around noon; so when they say 5 hours in and 10 hours out, they aren't kidding. When we got back to the car, our legs were fatigued and they shook as we stepped into the car. We are in really good health. We exercise daily; run, bike, swim, weights, martial arts, pilates, yoga.... You definitely need to be fit to hike it or any other lengthy trails especially with dramatic elevation changes.
But, no, Bright Angel isn't a dangerous trail, not even in high summer (except for the possibility of flash flooding), as long as you are prepared and do it smart. I was surprised to see it on the list. I would have thought South Kaibab would be more perilous as it has no water stations and is much more steep, but it is less traveled than Bright Angel, so I guess that's why. Bright Angel is kind of like a dog, its not generally the dog's fault if someone is attacked....

Star Star Star Star Star
Roger from Colorado
Feb 11, 2013

One of the most dangerous things about the Bright Angel trail, just like the trails in Yosemite, Yellowstone, RMNP or any of the big name parks is the number of people who are on them that have NO IDEA what they are getting themselves into and simply do not belong there. No water, footwear more suited for the mall than for the trail, no foul weather gear, no food, no map/compass and the ability to know how to use them (sorry your iPhone may not work back there, and GPS batteries do run out), no headlamp for after dark, no whistle (one of the most simple survival tools you can carry), no way to start a fire, no first aid kit, no shelter and nothing to help them if they have to spend the night. There are tons of lists of the ten essentials (my list is more than 10) that every person going for a hike should carry and most of the people who get in trouble are lucky if then have 2 or 3 of them. In other words, they simply do not belong there. I don't know how many times I have helped lead someone out from the backcountry, have given them food, water, warm clothing. How many I have patched them up when they fell and tore up their knees, hands or heads.

Common sense and preparedness are the two most basic things you need before any hike. Most of those who get themselves in trouble have neither.

Star Star Star Star Star
Roger from Colorado
Feb 11, 2013

One of the most dangerous things about the Bright Angel trail, just like the trails in Yosemite, Yellowstone, RMNP or any of the big name parks is the number of people who are on them that have NO IDEA what they are getting themselves into and simply do not belong there. No water, footwear more suited for the mall than for the trail, no foul weather gear, no food, no map/compass and the ability to know how to use them (sorry your iPhone may not work back there, and GPS batteries do run out), no headlamp for after dark, no whistle (one of the most simple survival tools you can carry), no way to start a fire, no first aid kit, no shelter and nothing to help them if they have to spend the night. There are tons of lists of the ten essentials (my list is more than 10) that every person going for a hike should carry and most of the people who get in trouble are lucky if then have 2 or 3 of them. In other words, they simply do not belong there. I don't know how many times I have helped lead someone out from the backcountry, have given them food, water, warm clothing. How many I have patched them up when they fell and tore up their knees, hands or heads.

Common sense and preparedness are the two most basic things you need before any hike. Most of those who get themselves in trouble have neither.

Star
TK
Jan 16, 2013

My daughters are hiking down to the bottom of the canyon in January. One daughter has an eating disorder and is cold all of the time. Neither girl has hiking boots, or is in incredible shape. They are 15 and 16 years old. My ex-husband is taking them. I am extremely worried for their well-being. Do I need to worry?

Noel
Nov 05, 2012

Just did rim2rim2rim. The essentials that you need are definitely water but mostly energy bars, salt pills,Gu's hiking poles provide an extra set of legs and cover up properly long sweat pants ,long sleeve shirt hat and glasses. Make sure to pack a warm jacket. Saw a couple guys freezing there butts off past Indian gardens on return route (30 degrees). With no flashlight.

Kim
Sep 30, 2012

I have gone partway down the Kaibab Trail to Cedar Ridge. Would like to hike either Kaibab or Bright Angel to Phantom and stay the night but I have a real fear of heights. Can anyone with a knowledge of such fear tell me whether if I made it that far down Kaibab, I don't have to worry about the other trails or are there worse parts further down or on bright Angel?

Jm m
Aug 27, 2012

Last May, myself and another overachiever ran rim to rim to rim on this trail. Perfect time of year. Started at 4:00am with 35 degrees. It got to 90 at the bottom by afternoon. We planned not to be Phanton Ranch during the hot afternoon and it worked out well. The two of us had small back packs witj energy snacks, electrolytes, jerky and a few other things. The total trip took 21 hrs. If I was to do anything different, I'd take more food and leave earlier. It's a trip you'll remember. By the way, I'm 62 and my running partner is 64. Happy to share anything.

Anupama
Aug 24, 2012

How are the temps in mid october. we are thinking of doing it oct 13th.

AW
Jul 13, 2012

Just finished Bright Angel an am in pretty shape. Live in Texas so heat not a issue or so I thought. We under estimated the time it was going to take to get to the bottom. Broke all the rules, not enough food, did not wet shirt or hot at stops and drink to much water with out replacing electrolyte. Long story short, I felt really bad at Phantom Ranch and could not hold down any food or electrolytes. I received an IV from the Ranger at Phantom, got really lucky with getting another day at Phantom to rest. We ate real good, left early morning, drink pretty of water, and electrolytes, along route back up. We also ate at every stop water stop and wet down shirt and hat. This was key as I led our merry band out of the canyon and was not even sore the next day. I will do this again the right way.

Jim Green
Jun 27, 2012

On a whim, I googled America's 10 most dangerous hikes, and I couldn't believe Bright Angel is on the list. Yes, it's hot there, but it's nowhere near the toughest route, only the most used. I've hiked it, plus N. and S. Kaibab, and Grandview to Horsheshoe Mesa. None of those are as difficult as Nankoweap, New Hance, Hermit, Tanner, etc., and these trails experience the same hot weather as Bright Angel.

Rusty
Jun 03, 2012

Kasia - A hat, hiking boots (yes, despite the heat), moleskin and other first aid items, lots of sunscreen, and I like using hiking poles. It's nice to also have some sort of camp shoe, e.g., crocs, to change into once at Phantom. You'll also need one 2-liter capacity water container per person, which will get you down to Indian Gardens where there is potable water to refill for the 2nd hotter half of the trip. Re temperature, it looks like it'll be 70's at the rim, which means 90's at Phantom.

Re electrolyte replacements. I do fine with just lots of water. However, I always carry a packet of powdered electrolyte replacement drink mix, e.g., Gookinaid's Hydrolyte, for emergency. Have never had to use it.

If you still have questions, when you get to the South Rim in the Park, go to the Village Market where the Outdoors Section in the back sells anything you would need and is staffed by very knowledgeable helpful hikers!

Have a good hike. You will be awed by the views (remember: don't gawk and walk), and I personally am always amazed by the geologic story. When you get down to the river, you will be standing next to rock that was first deposited almost two billion years ago! Each step down takes you through millions of years of geologic happenings. Oh, I can hardly wait for our next hike!

Dan
Jun 01, 2012

It really depends on the time of year you hike it. In the Summer it is brutal. Other times of year may be slightly less hot and in some cases especially in the north rim, treacherous because of snow/cold etc.

Rusty
Jun 01, 2012

Kasia - A hat, hiking boots (yes, despite the heat), moleskin and other first aid items, lots of sunscreen, and I like using hiking poles. It's nice to also have some sort of camp shoe, e.g., crocs, to change into once at Phantom. You'll also need one 2-liter capacity water container per person, which will get you down to Indian Gardens where there is potable water to refill for the 2nd hotter half of the trip. Re temperature, it looks like it'll be 70's at the rim, which means 90's at Phantom.

Re electrolyte replacements. I do fine with just lots of water. However, I always carry a packet of powdered electrolyte replacement drink mix, e.g., Gookinaid's Hydrolyte, for emergency. Have never had to use it.

If you still have questions, when you get to the South Rim in the Park, go to the Village Market where the Outdoors Section in the back sells anything you would need and is staffed by very knowledgeable helpful hikers!

Have a good hike. You will be awed by the views (remember: don't gawk and walk), and I personally am always amazed by the geologic story. When you get down to the river, you will be standing next to rock that was first deposited almost two billion years ago! Each step down takes you through millions of years of geologic happenings. Oh, I can hardly wait for our next hike!

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