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Backpacker Magazine – October 2008

America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes - Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ

Baked or broiled?

by: Kelly Bastone

The Hike Trekking from rim to river (and back) is one of the planet's iconic journeys, an achievement nearly every Grand Canyon visitor longs to notch. Trouble is, canyon temps routinely top 110°F in summer, and that hellish heat–combined with the exertion of climbing 4,380 vertical feet over 9.5 miles–results in about 200 heat-related rescues in the park each year, most of them on the Bright Angel Trail. In fact, a spate of deaths 10 years ago prompted the creation of PSAR (Preventative Search and Rescue), a team of rangers that patrols the Bright Angel Trail, assessing individual hikers, dispensing water to the suffering, and urging the unprepared to seek safety.

Exhibit A At 120°F, brain cells burst like tiny egg sacks, spilling their thick, salty fluid in thousands of deadly hemorrhages. Before that happened, 28-year-old Avik Chakravarty–who died here in July 2005–would have experienced cramps, scorching thirst, and hallucinations. His error: climbing up in the midafternoon heat. It's one that's easy to make on the Bright Angel Trail, which departs from the South Rim's commercial cluster. That convenience attracts scores of impulsive hikers who find that going down is easy–but climbing up is torturous. "The death zone is between the river and Indian Gardens, about halfway up," says Michael Ghiglieri, a Colorado River guide and co-author of Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. The dark grey schist at lower elevations absorbs and radiates heat like a cast-iron frying pan, so when thermometers read 110°F in the shade at Phantom Ranch, hikers endure 130°F ground temps on the trail. Most people try to escape the inferno by hurrying along, which exacerbates heat illness. Explains Ghiglieri, "People feel so hideous they keep going to get it over with, instead of resting."

Survival Plan Start hiking down in the mild temps before dawn. At the bottom, cool off in the creek. Carry lots of water–Ghiglieri recommends drinking five to six liters on the round-trip–and pace yourself on the ascent. "Don't just go steadily until you drop dead," he warns. "Rest for 15 minutes of every hour you climb." Even better, delay your return until evening, and finish your hike by headlamp.


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READERS COMMENTS

Me and 3 other buddies hiked the Bright Angel on June 17th, 2009 and went from rim-river-rim in 8 hours and 30 minutes. The overall time was right at 10 hours due to the 1 hour and 30 minute rest at the river. It is possible to hike down and back in one day. After have done this, I do not recommend doing a rim-river-rim day. It was a very difficult hike. We all experienced either ankle or calf pains one we reached the top. Those pains continued for several days with each of us. Ages of us are 27,27,24,24. Each of us are in pretty good physical shape.
Posted: Jun 20, 2009 Casey

Hiking the Grand Canyon in the winter is great. I hiked it in the winter when I was in 7th grade with my dad and I will be doing a day hike hopefully in a month. I definitely recommend hiking it in December or January. The views are better and you don't have to worry about the heat. If you do hike in the winter just bring crampons because there will be snow and ice.

Thank you for everyones comments it's helping get ready for my summer hike there.
Posted: Jun 16, 2009 Will

Opinion from a local: The Bright Angel is to the South Rim what the AT is to the East Coast. There are certainly more scenic and infinitely more difficult trails and routes in Grand Canyon than BR. The reason so many people have heat related issues on BR is that most obviously, there are SO... MANY... PEOPLE on it. Second, like the first person commented, it's NOT the nature of the trail itself: BR is easily the least demanding rim to river trail in all of Grand Canyon IMHO- It's wide and maintained, nontechnical, very well traveled, shaded in many spots, multiple water sources. Compared to what else is in Grand Canyon, BR is child's play. There's just a LOT of people on it, and MOST of those people are absolutely clueless when it comes to hiking safely in high desert country and are often so un-used to real physical activity that a lack of water and air conditioning at literally every turn becomes a real threat on what really is a fairly easy Grand Canyon trail.
The problems experienced on BR do not reflect the character of the trail, merely the general ineptitude of most of the people on it.
As a local I avoid Bright Angel like the plague, I'm only grateful that it keeps the crowds away from the good stuff. Best time to visit Grand Canyon? Dead of Winter, hopefully during a nasty storm, and as far away from the South Rim as you can get.
Posted: Jan 30, 2009 Dave from Flagstaff

You'v GOT to be kidding, right? Is this some kind of joke?
The BA is more dangerious that the Royal Arch route, the New Hance trail, the Tanner trail, the South Bass trail?
Get a grip. It is traveled by people who do not have a clue (high heels, blue jeans in summer, no carried water) and they get in trouble. It is NOT the trail, it is the Bozos.
Posted: Jan 29, 2009 Michael

I definitely agree that the Bright Angel Trail is a very difficult trail - almost solely because of the hike back up. I did the rim-to-the-Colorado-and-back-in-one-day thing in August 2007 and while I'm in pretty good shape, I was with two people who weren't. That said, if people know their limits and prepare, it can be accomplished. Obviously the trail isn't for everyone but it can be tackled with the right planning. There are numerous water sources along the trail but do not depend on them - take a water filter or a SteriPen in the event something happens. I carried nearly 200 oz. of water (two bladders and two Nalgene bottles), electrolyte replacement mix, a generous amount of trail mix, and some granola. Be on the trail before the sun rises and set a turn-around time. For us, we said that we were going to stop at 11:00 AM, have lunch and relax, and then turn around no matter where we were. It turned out that we got the Colorado before then so we cooled off underneath some trees and had lunch along the river before starting back up. The hike back is brutal - there is no way around it. Hiking 4000 feet up in 8 miles or so is very difficult but pace yourself and stay hydrated. The key for me, I believe, was to just keep drinking water to the point that I never felt thirsty. There is a ranger station at Indian Gardens (around milemarker 5) if you run into any problems.
Posted: Jan 26, 2009 Jordan

You can hike it anytime, but be prepared for ice or snow in February. I was there in early May last year or so and there was a couple-of-inches-snowfall at the South Rim campground. There are no narrow ledges on the taril.
Posted: Jan 24, 2009 KKM

You can never depend on the water sources.I've seen guys on the trail repairing the pipelines after breaking. Or there are probably other things that can happen to the water supply, too.
Posted: Jan 24, 2009 Karen Mesikapp

Do the 5 to six liters of water need to be carried or can I depend on water at the designated spots on the trail map?
Posted: Jan 22, 2009 SAM

We are planning a trip to the GC in February. Is that too early to hike the Bright Angel trail for a 3-day backpack? Also, are there any narrow ledges to negotiate? Thanks.
Posted: Jan 14, 2009 Lu

In 1997 I hiked down the north rim on the north kaibab trail. On the accent a few days later my group and I tried to hike up and out of the canyon in one day. Big mistake. We ran out of water about half way up and I became dehydrated. I made it out O.K. but, six month later I got kidney stones from being dehydrated. In 1999 I went down the Bright Angel Trail and over compensated with the water. I made sure to drink as often as possible. My problem was I did not take in enough food the night before the hike or that day. My friends and I made it to the Phantom ranch with no problem. Except I felt terrible. I could not cool off for anything. Then I passed out and the rangers put me in a wheel barrel and took me to their station. I found out that I had something known as hypernatremia or water intoxication. I needed to be air lifted out of the canyon the next day. Because this is a life threatening condition. The trail is tough enough but, I believe it is the human mistakes that will hurt you even more .
Posted: Jan 13, 2009 Craig Buchalter

You should be careful at the Canyon. I did not do Bright Angel but did go down and up Bright Angel with is supposed to be tougher with no water or shade. I am in a little better than average shape. I did get a little dehydrated one day, my own fault. But we made it with no real problem. Never underestimate the Grand Canyon.
Posted: Jan 08, 2009 Beaux

I absolutely agree with your calling Bright Angel one of the ten most dangerous trails in America. I would go one step farther, as the Park Service does, and advise people not to go down to the Colorado River and back in one day!
Posted: Jan 02, 2009 David V

March 1984 a friend and I started down the South Kaibab trail at 9 a.m. for a short look; were just going maybe a half mile or so to look around. Had 1/2 gallon of water (in a gallon jug) between us and a few granola bars. Three hours later we were at the bottom (3 miles). We decided to go downriver a ways and up the Bright Angel Trail for variety. We were able to refill water at the bottom and at Indian Gardens (as I recall). By the time we got to Indian gardens it was getting dark, and no moon. A ranger loaned us a flashlight and we made it to the top by 9 p.m. After satisfying a ravenous hunger at the lodge restaurant, some kind person have us a ride to the other trail head. Heat was not a big issue then in early spring, but fatigue and lack of conditioning were. We were better prepared the next time.
Posted: Nov 29, 2008 r

Ive hiked the canyon several times including two RTR runs. I have always seen unprepared people having a much different adventure than they expected. One rule of thumb, check the temperature forecast in Phoenix. That's what you'll likely experience at the bottom.
Posted: Nov 19, 2008 azhiker96

When I saw your "most dangerous hikes" tease, I didn't expect Bright Angel to be the culprit, but it probably is most used and abused of the trails. Every time I have hiked out of the canyon on the Angel, I have seen people doing things that defy all common sense. I have seen a teen boy running (down-no visable water); parents leading and/or carrying small children with a 2 liter bottle of Coke to drink; a lady pretty much dressed for church with (I hope) water in her purse... I could go on, but just know that the concentration of Tourons (Tourist+morons) is heavy on this main highway to the river. I would only hike at night out of neccessity. Moonlight hiking is great, but I'm there for the view.


Posted: Nov 17, 2008 greg

For the inept, inexperienced and out-of-shape, yes it's dangerous but for people who fit that bill, even walking a mile on an uneven trail in beautiful weather can be just as dangerous. I came upon that scenario last week where the woman had a compound ankle fracture laying on the trail alone.
But speaking about Bright Angel, my so far one-and-only time in the Grand Canyon was a moonlight hike mid-July this year. Started at 11 pm, down to the river by 2:00 am, stayed 30 minutes then headed back up arriving at 6:30 am. Yep, I felt pretty wiped out but I'm 58 and hadn't hiked in 6 months so it was an accomplishment. Moonlight is great, never turned on my flashlight and didn't even get into my water reserves, 100 oz of Gatorade in my CamelBak was enough. Yes, I was well hydrated before the hike, yet I didn't need any more than the ordinary afterward.
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 Mark

My sister and I hiked down and back in 24 hours in July 1985. We started down at 8am and hung out with people at Phantom Ranch until midnight, sleeping on picnic tables for a bit. When we hiked up the moon was full and we didn't need lights, and it was like walking in a lunar landscape. We napped on the way up (on picnic tables) and got back to the top around 8am.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Jim

We've done the South Kaibab down, camped at Phantom, then out by Bright Angel, two times. Hot? Yes. But 5 qts of water helped. Only real problem was being dumb. Took sleeping bag, cooking gear, and way too much (60# plus) the first trip. Second trip was all non-cook food and a sheet for sleeping. The scenery, the sense of vastness and wonder, and the moon-rise were all worth it!! Thanks for helping bring back these wonderful memories.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Bob

I was there this past October hiking the rim to rim. We saw two different people on the Bright Angel that needed assistance to get out of the Canyon. NEVER under estimate the dangers of the trails in the Grand Canyon!
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Jennifer

A couple of years ago I visted the canyon in August and I belived that I hike the angel trail but only as far as the first sign, almost bought the farm going back up, I didn't have enough WATER.
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 Alan Roman

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