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Backpacker Magazine – June 2010

Secret Hikes: Appalachian Trail

The last lonely stretch of the AT beckons from the mountains of western Maine.

by: Michael Lanza

Mile 10, Cascade Trail - AT (Dean Goss)
Mile 10, Cascade Trail - AT (Dean Goss)


The best secret trail in the East’s national parks isn’t some unknown bridle path in Acadia (there is none), and it’s nowhere near the Smokies (with 9 million annual visitors!). The hidden treasure here is this northern 33-mile section of the Appalachian Trail—yes, the granddaddy of long trails is part of the national park system.

Our map correspondents call this four-day point-to-point, from ME 26 in Grafton Notch to ME 17, “the loneliest stretch of the AT.” Why? Hiker magnets like Baxter State Park and the 100-Mile Wilderness attract the crowds, leaving this stretch blissfully quiet. You’ll traverse the West and East Peaks of Baldpate Mountain and Wyman, Old Blue, Elephant, and Bemis Mountains. This is more than just a series of nondescript peaks: It’s the White Mountains-caliber scenery of western Maine’s rolling mountains and lake-dappled, verdant spruce forests. Don’t try to blitz this route—it’s rocky and lacks switchbacks, and three lean-tos (Frye Notch, Hall Mountain, and Bemis  Mountain) are spaced for a four-day trip.

›› Magic Moment Where the AT drops into a saddle between Elephant Mountain and Old Blue Mountain, you pass through an Eastern old-growth forest of red spruce, which germinated about the time the Mayflower reached the New World.

›› Local Knowledge
At Dunn Notch, detour .9 mile east off the AT onto the parallel Cascade Trail. It runs another .9 mile along the West Branch Ellis River, passing dozens of falls, including 60-foot-high Dunn Falls. Link back to the AT at East B Hill Road.

›› Do It
South end: on ME 26 in Grafton Notch State Park, 18 miles north of Bethel. North end: on ME 17, 26 miles north of Rumford. Map/Guidebook Appalachian Trail Guide to Maine ($28; atctrailstore
.org) Contact (304) 535-6331; appalachiantrail.org



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At Greg- I hike the AT in PA/NJ several times a month, and on most occasions I don't see a single other person (I tend to do 8-12 mile day hikes); I don't know where you're hiking that you're flooded by tourists...

And at Teal-just because they're out of staters, doesn't mean that they are any less hard core about hiking than you are (although, I'm sure half of them aren't true hikers, and are indeed, just tourists who only "hike" one day on vacation, just to say they did it) ...But, if someone is driving all the way up to Maine JUST to hike that section of the AT, I would consider them extremely passionate about hiking...however, I agree; Acadia is very crowded, but only on the main trails like Cadillac Mnt, Jessup trail, beehive & the bowl, etc, but others like Beech Mnt and Parkman Mnt are deserted...the Smokies, Shenandoah, and White/Green Mnt NFs share the same situation...you just have to avoid the tourist attractions, go in the off season, or learn to share the trail...

George
Mar 22, 2012

I hike in the Smokies weekly and with the exception of a few trails I almost never run into flocks of tourists or other hikers. Try some of the lesser known trails and you'll have plenty of time to yourself.

Andrew
Mar 22, 2012

Hey now... 9 million strong or not, there r still plenty of hidden corners in the Smokies... I'm no expert but out of 3-4 meager attempts at solitude I've had success every time. On my last circuit, we didn't see a sole for over 25 miles! Amazing trails and amazing views... This is not to mention the areas surrounding the park itself....

ME
Feb 28, 2012

I go in the off season to avoid the crowd, anyway. At least the tourist are out doing something instead of sitting infront of a XBox rotting their brains. You want solitude? Go in the off season.

monkey butt
Jan 11, 2012

I have to ask where is the AP

thru hiker
Dec 29, 2011

this is the most challenging stretch of the entire a.t. wish i had gone slower to enjoy it

Lunatic (GA-ME 2009)
Oct 27, 2011

This is an amazing stretch of the AT. One that I plan to rehike next year, and take my time because I did this in 2 days on my thru hike.

Greg
Oct 14, 2011

It's articles like these that ruin the beauty of the trail. I can't even hike the Appalachian trail in PA anymore without seeing a flock of obnoxious tourists on the trail. Stop spoiling the magic.

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teal
Oct 16, 2010

lonely - are you KIDDING? The parking lots are jammed with annoying out of staters all season. It used to be great, before all the articles.

logan eiland
Sep 28, 2010

are there any shuttles that could get us back to our car if we begin at the north or south part of this section?

j
Sep 07, 2010

Definitely a great section, baldpate west/east my favorite peaks of the trail. I'm also glad you recognized how crowded the 100mile wilderness is, the only time I had real solitude was when I was stealth camping.

Michael Gillard
Aug 17, 2010

I hiked the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail in South Western Pa. in May it was awesome , cant wait to try this trail maybe next year when I get more vacation time , looking forward to sending away for the Map/Guidebook.

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