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Backpacker Magazine – May 2009

The Unlikeliest Mountaineer

Take a fatherless herd boy from poverty-wracked Swaziland, endow him with an indomitable will and a few wealthy friends, give him the lungs of Ed Viesturs, and you have...

by: Steve Howe (story and photos)

Sibu carries a load around Denali's windy corner.
Sibu carries a load around Denali's windy corner.
Sibu covers up new dreadlocks.
Sibu covers up new dreadlocks.
The view from 17,200-foot high camp.
The view from 17,200-foot high camp.
200 feet below the summit Sibu begins celebrating.
200 feet below the summit Sibu begins celebrating.
11,700 feet after hauling up Motorcycle Hill.
11,700 feet after hauling up Motorcycle Hill.
Sibu summits Mt. Elbrus in 2006.
Sibu summits Mt. Elbrus in 2006.

MORE SIBU

photo icon  DENALI PHOTOS: Bears, Trains, and Inclement Weather


trip icon THE PULSE BLOG: Read Steve Howe's three part blog novella about his adventures with Sibusiso Emmanuel Vilane:

Part 1: Skipping Stones

Part 2: Gods of the National Park Service

Part 3: Bears for the Boyz

The four-mile, 3,200-foot carry around Windy Corner from Eleven Camp to Fourteen feels even steeper than it sounds. Add bad weather and the route can be life-threatening. But Sibu and I luck into a bluebird day. We climb in crampons, released from sleds and snowshoes, reveling in the insane Peters Headwall, a 7,000-foot escarpment of rock and ice that rears overhead. "It's so good to be on haul-ee-day," Sibu shouts at the sky. It's a phrase he uses often when settling into camp or resting trailside. For all his obvious toughness, Sibu has a refreshingly casual climbing style, always content to chat with passing mountaineers or kick back guiltlessly when weather forces a delay.

From a distance, the bustling snow village of Fourteen Camp looks like an exotic casbah populated by neon-clad spacemen. This week, the fluctuating population of 150 or so includes Americans, Canadians, Russians, Norwegians, Swedes, Finns, British, Italians, French, Germans, Austrians, Swiss, Czechs, Poles, Brazilians, Venezuelans, Chileans, Argentines, Ecuadorians, Spanish, Koreans, Japanese, Chinese, an Indonesian, a Sikh, and an ethnic Tibetan Mongol ("not Sherpa," he pointedly clarifies).

Even in this polyglot assemblage, Sibu stands out with his dreadlocks and coal-black skin. Most climbers are curious about him, and Sibu, a social butterfly, returns from a brief walkabout with a fistful of business cards and scribbled addresses. Personally, I'm developing a case of melanin envy. I can't keep my pasty Irish skin from frying in the high-altitude sun, while Sibu wanders blithely through the microwaves unprotected, taking pictures and filming like a tourist.

He's a hopeless tech geek, hauling two digital cameras, a camcorder, a voice recorder, a sat phone, a GPS, and an iPod filled with audio books and motivational tapes. He wears two watches, a Suunto on Alaska time and a blingy titanium Tag Heuer on South Africa time. Most evenings he makes a call to Nomsa, or to a Nelspruit radio station, doing DJ shout-outs to drum up donations for a local preschool.

Finally, we get around to chopping out a tent platform, leveling the shelf with shovels and axes. Overhead, the Headwall swims in our ditzy, unacclimatized vision, a massive toilet-bowl ice slope plunging down off the Buttress ridgeline. Above here, the real climbing starts.



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Star Star Star Star Star
Trekking in Nepal
Apr 03, 2013

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http://www.hikingsinnepal.blogspot.com
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