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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

Ethiopia Backpacking Trips

Explore secret Africa on an alpine wildlife safari.

by: Michael Lanza, Photos by Kurt Werby

The Amhara have lived in Ethiopia for 1,000 years.
The Amhara have lived in Ethiopia for 1,000 years.
The Semien Highlands.
The Semien Highlands.
Hikers approach the village of Geech.
Hikers approach the village of Geech.

Plan It
Guidebook Ethiopia and Eritrea, by Matt Philips (Lonely Planet, $26)
Map Simen Mountains World Heritage Site (omnimap.com, $20)
Season December to March for dry weather; November for wildflowers
Essential gear Sun hat
Need to know Buy camp food before Debark; it has little variety.
Cost DIY: $
Guided: $$$$$
Outfitter Steppes Travel, steppestravel.co.uk

Pyrenees Traverse, France | Cape Wrath Trail, Scotland | Zillertal Alps, Austria | Tongariro Northern Circuit and Heaphy Track, New Zealand | Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia | Overland Track, Australia | Sarek National Park, Sweden | Rolwaling and Khumbu Valleys, Nepal | Polar Route, Greenland | Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia

Talk about off the map: This chain of 14,000-foot mountains might as well be off the planet. And this 83-mile, eight-day trek hits the trifecta of adventure travel: Mind-boggling scenery, exotic wildlife, and fascinating culture. The Simiens, sculpted by 40 million years of eruptions and erosion, are a haunting mix of sheer escarpments, deep gorges, and ambas–stone columns that are remnants of prehistoric volcano vents. Gelada baboons protected within this UNESCO World Heritage Site are so comfortable around humans that you can sit on the ground near them (just don't get closer than 20 feet). And John James Audubon himself would have dropped his binoculars at the array of bird life, which includes waddled ibis and enormous vultures called lammergeysers. Trekking through villages of mud-and-grass huts, you'll meet Amhara locals whose ancestors became the first Africans to repel a full-scale European colonization at the end of the 19th century.

The trek starts in Buyit Ras, but first visit park headquarters in Debark, where you'll meet your mandatory ranger escort (who isn't a guide, officially, and usually speaks only Amharic). Local guides with packhorses are available here as well; both are recommended. The elevation and infrequent water sources make this a challenging hike, and much of the route crosses true wilderness in largely trailless terrain. Buyit Ras–as well as designated camps the next two nights at Geech and Chenek–put you in prime baboon habitat with big-mountain views. En route, you'll cross a series of 14,000-foot peaks with edge-of-the-Earth views across the vast, desolate plains of east Africa.

Life-list moment:
Dayhike to Bwahit Peak from Chenek and see elk-size walia ibex–a species that exists only in the Simien Mountains–on crags just 20 minutes from camp.



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ALL READERS COMMENTS

Ben
Oct 13, 2011

I'm glad this walk is getting notice - it is truly special. I would only argue that the cost is not necessarily $$$$$, as listed here. It will be if you have your entire trip handled through an outfitter, but I did this by flying to Ethiopia and traveling to Debark independently. There, you will buy supplies and hire your mandatory ranger as well as the recommended guide and mule-handler, but the point is it can quite easily be done on a shoestring budget.

Endale
Oct 15, 2009

you have write it well about the roof of Africa.Really the ups and downs of the park is like that of the Ethiopian ethnic biodiversity.

Theodore II
Jul 28, 2009

Dear Michael Lanza:

What you wrote is historically true and accurate. There is no need to change any sentence in your post.

Thanks.

Yohannes
Apr 20, 2009

All this nonsense for one sentence in the article? please leave your stupid, dividing comments in Nazret.com. This site is for those who love to travel and appreciate nature. Besides you are offending those of us who beleive in one ethiopia. Spend the rest of your precious life calling each other, Oromo, Amhara, tigre... Grow up! the world is in another stage

Jen
Apr 19, 2009

Ethiopia, both land and people are stunningly beautiful. I would feel honored to visit such an unusual place. As a westerner, I am aware that my ancestors made many serious mistakes in colonizing other parts of Africa. (They had no business doing it) And I feel sad for the traditional ways that were lost because of it. I hope that the people of Ethiopia can work out their problems and not make the same mistakes that westerners did in old times...because there is so much GOOD in all the diverse people/traditions/cultures of Ethiopia that you should all be proud of.

heavily anonymous
Apr 19, 2009

it is nice to hear about the Oromo cavalry. I totally believe it. oromo is a major part, body and soul, with out Oromo we are diminished . it is remarkable "educated" Oromos consider this dear part of us "colonized".
why dwell so much on this small portion of our history, the more we romanticized the part the less it seems we have anything to show for it today, now. What matters is now this is not to say the past doesn’t matter. If we were great in the past, we should ask instead what went wrong ?
why we are so destitute economically, even more destitute intellectually ? why our "educated" people both old and newly minted PhDs writing carefully worded fancy lines more for the sound it makes than its substance. Oromo/Eritrea’s intellectuals put you to shame with their analysis of Ethiopian colonialism. How amaharas destroyed the Geda system or tied backward a potential Singapore in the horn..etc. does cultures and language expire on their own , is a potential a proven reserve ? the whole crap smells and it is a fickle exercise. I once try to read about Ethiopia-china relationships put out by a fancily named group called network of Ethiopian scholars. one paragraph is as far as I went before I throw up. is this what we have for scholars. if true, no wonder we are so ffaakked up. the tigreans now telling us how democrats they are. the new republic is ethnic federalism. they had it figured out except it crumbled in their face. they had now restored to the true and tried way: federalism by the muzzle of the gun. amahara chauvinism indeed is nothing to be left unrubbed either, which the tigrayans share, albeit with a little bit of self-doubt and insecurity. our culture, which is mostly amahara/tigray/oromo, is somewhat indispensable, it has many beautiful, old, pleasant and valuable things. it has also toxicity for change, new ideas, and development. I could not help but notice habits/attitudes/customs that advances society is taboo in our culture. say for example if you are a black smith, a weaver, a cook, a merchant, azmari, inventor, philosopher all these trades or profession if you will, have derogatory implication in our culture. so what is respected ? or how you survive ? the answer is no wonder we almost did not or always on the edge. respect ? yes we are respected by all our peers, which are dwellers below the bottom line, under the surface of the earth. so when "educated" scholare both eri/eth say we are colonized it is not a coincident, it is a result of 100 even thousand years of destitution giving us its fruit in a form of our home grown
“free thinkers” which is to say out of the box or out of the textbooks thinkers, to put it in a historical context it has been as radiant as expected and lethal to thyself. long after the EPRP and the scholars on the opposite side during the mengistu era are gone it just hit me that both were eaqual and opposite.. In hindsight both made the same even identical mistake, both were cruel, both lacked the ability to lead/compromise, think outside the box that is to say they lack sober analysis hence both stuck to their “text books”. How about the newly independent country Eritrea and the old independent country Ethiopia today ? the government in each country is a mirror image of each other. education is essential it prepares and hones oneself to entertain new ideas and concepts, weigh and analyze ideas. it is the instrument of sober analysis. I am sorry to say with almost unbearable anguish most of the material I read on Eth/eri site beside being from PhD so and so it is almost unreadable with out exception ,just a bunch of publicity seekers and less than expected, second rate arrivals in the intellectual stage. the concept of educated ignorant is not a contradiction as it seems on paper. I have so many my fellow countrymen making errors unimaginable for even by the standard of the average fellow on the street. So one quietly wonders want to disappear in that quiet mental stormy moment, for the thing in front of him is hopelessly mired. How about your country, your people ? There is the rub indeed one also loves his country and culture and the people who are dear to him. it is this intense love that tempts you to go shouting with a knife or an axe on the streets of honest conversation. That is to say be judgmental with a sledgehammer. Let us hope even we missed on our own Newton and Einstein, so is most everyone at least we could have our own Obama.

heavily anonymous
Apr 19, 2009

it is nice to hear about the Oromo cavalry. I totally believe it. oromo is a major part, body and soul, with out Oromo we are diminished . it is remarkable "educated" Oromos consider this dear part of us "colonized".
why dwell so much on this small portion of our history, the more we romanticized the part the less it seems we have anything to show for it today, now. What matters is now this is not to say the past doesn’t matter. If we were great in the past, we should ask instead what went wrong ?
why we are so destitute economically, even more destitute intellectually ? why our "educated" people both old and newly minted PhDs writing carefully worded fancy lines more for the sound it makes than its substance. Oromo/Eritrea’s intellectuals put you to shame with their analysis of Ethiopian colonialism. How amaharas destroyed the Geda system or tied backward a potential Singapore in the horn..etc. does cultures and language expire on their own , is a potential a proven reserve ? the whole crap smells and it is a fickle exercise. I once try to read about Ethiopia-china relationships put out by a fancily named group called network of Ethiopian scholars. one paragraph is as far as I went before I throw up. is this what we have for scholars. if true, no wonder we are so ffaakked up. the tigreans now telling us how democrats they are. the new republic is ethnic federalism. they had it figured out except it crumbled in their face. they had now restored to the true and tried way: federalism by the muzzle of the gun. amahara chauvinism indeed is nothing to be left unrubbed either, which the tigrayans share, albeit with a little bit of self-doubt and insecurity. our culture, which is mostly amahara/tigray/oromo, is somewhat indispensable, it has many beautiful, old, pleasant and valuable things. it has also toxicity for change, new ideas, and development. I could not help but notice habits/attitudes/customs that advances society is taboo in our culture. say for example if you are a black smith, a weaver, a cook, a merchant, azmari, inventor, philosopher all these trades or profession if you will, have derogatory implication in our culture. so what is respected ? or how you survive ? the answer is no wonder we almost did not or always on the edge. respect ? yes we are respected by all our peers, which are dwellers below the bottom line, under the surface of the earth. so when "educated" scholare both eri/eth say we are colonized it is not a coincident, it is a result of 100 even thousand years of destitution giving us its fruit in a form of our home grown
“free thinkers” which is to say out of the box or out of the textbooks thinkers, to put it in a historical context it has been as radiant as expected and lethal to thyself. long after the EPRP and the scholars on the opposite side during the mengistu era are gone it just hit me that both were eaqual and opposite.. In hindsight both made the same even identical mistake, both were cruel, both lacked the ability to lead/compromise, think outside the box that is to say they lack sober analysis hence both stuck to their “text books”. education is essential it prepares and hones oneself to entertain new ideas and concepts, weigh and analyze ideas. it is the instrument of sober analysis. I am sorry to say with almost unbearable anguish most of the material I read on Eth/eri site beside being from PhD so and so it is almost unreadable with out exception ,just a bunch of publicity seekers and less than expected, second rate arrivals in the intellectual stage. the concept of educated ignorant is not a contradiction as it seems on paper. I have so many my fellow countrymen making errors unimaginable for even by the standard of the average fellow on the street. So one quietly wonders want to disappear in that quiet mental stormy moment, for the thing in front of him is hopelessly mired. How about your country, your people ? There is the rub indeed one also loves his country and culture and the people who are dear to him. it is this intense love that tempts you to go shouting with a knife or an axe on the streets of honest conversation. That is to say be judgmental with a sledgehammer. Let us hope even we missed on our own Newton and Einstein, so is most everyone at least we could have our own Obama.

Tekezie
Apr 19, 2009

Dear participants take a look and listen carefully to what all have been said: nasty and disgraceful dialog/argument about what, for what, why and to get where?
We, as Ethiopians, from N, S, E, W, must stand together as we did for centuries. It is our custom, to say the least, respecting foreigners (we call Ferenge) when they come to our homeland as visitors. There reason why they come to visit/work/spy to our home land may vary depending on the status of each visitor. Yet most of them, if not all, come to this beautiful land to appreciate its horizon, very unique culture and history, smart and beautiful looking people that dwell in every aspects of its region. In doing so, during and or after their visit some of them share the beauty of this country, its culture, history, social and economical aspects of its identity to the world well better than you and I would do.
Most of its own citizen especially including all us who participated passionately in this discussion/dialog are sharing and declaring our opinion, if not knowledge, about this article have little or no factual basic understanding of our own history. Because, if you go back and take a quick glance at all of the responding points, to your surprise you will be amazed to find no wisdom in all of us but an insult to those people who are willing to take a huge risk and devoted there life, time and money in trying to explore, learn and appreciate the land of not there own.
While it is quite clear, as it has been mentioned by many of you, that the writer has made errors in historical background assessment of this beloved country and the cultural miss understanding of that region, generally as a short time foreign visitor it is fair to say that the writer did not miss the bench mark by far so that the lack of deep understanding of hosting country history and the chronological errors indicated to that particular place in regard to its original identity may be somewhat misleading however, could be forgiven providing that the writers intention was sharing the love of this country in-particular to the region where the visit occurred.
Now, you may ask what is your point? My point is simple. I have read your points low and high, and all of your points are well taken. Nevertheless please, as one people, let us make sure everybody is well-come to visit this beautiful land any time! We need them now than ever.

Boruu Aba Fardaa Magalla
Apr 17, 2009

Listen all you Abyss Punks, It was the Oromo Cavalry that saved the day at the battle of Adowa!! All the Abyss (Amharas, Tigreans...etc) were in the Church of St. Mary for the Orthodox Eastern benediction ( Minelek, Emperess Taitu..and all the feudal war lords) were praying while the Gada republic Oromo cavalry that came from all over the Empire were galloping up and down of the Adow valleys watching the Italian's move. By the time the Empror and his retinues were told, the battle had been won and the Italian Army was decimated.... thanks to the Balcha Abanespho, Fit. Gebeyo..Ras Mokenn ... and other Oromo Wariors from Centerla and Eastern, Western part of the Empire!!
All the European and American reporters who were there wrote the correct historical chronlogy of the Italian deaft.... You can read these in books like... The battle of Adow, New Your Times and the Sundy Times of London... they had their reports there...

Anonymous
Apr 16, 2009

tafesse
Apr 16, 2009

Ethiopians nowadays are ready to fight over any bone of contention. Just throw the bone to them and you can keep them howling for ages. What a disgraceful character indeed. Ethiopia has been invaded by ignorance far too long to attract any colonialist, apart from the misadventure of 5 years by Italy. You are welcome to write what you wish.

Amhara
Apr 15, 2009

The write is completely RIGHT.

If it were not for the Amhara, Tigray would have been colonized just like Eritrea. Alula might have been a great war lord but war lords do not defeat full scale colonialist aggression. It was the Amhara and Amharic culture that produced well organized and far sighted defense.

good job writer.

Sorry for the tribalism. But Ethiopians have now to deal with this problem thanks to the government in power.

Alula
Apr 15, 2009

The writer does not know Ethiopia at all. All invaders were defeated in Tigray by Tigrayans; that is one and only truth of Ethiopia. Without Alula, there is no Adwa; without Yohanse there is no Dogali. Withaot Kaleb, there is no Yemen; and without Meles ther is no Somalia.
But look what had happened in Maichew. Who was leading the war? Do I have to spell it out for you?

Amaha
Apr 15, 2009

You all are cring it is true at that time and now. Amharas are the only one even now don't want divide the country.

Atsebeha
Apr 14, 2009

Folks,

Let's not misinterpret his words. He did not exclude the rest of the tribes in Ethiopia. He is talking about all of us by referring to the Amharas as a reference point. This doesn't mean the rest is excluded. This is very common in any writing. For example, one can talk about America by referring to New Yorkers or Washingtonians. It doesn't mean California iz excluded.

However, since we all are very much sensitized by ethnicity these days, I understand why some of us take things out of context very easily.

oscar
Apr 14, 2009

Cant wait to visit northern Ethiopia ......tx backpacker magz . There are plenty of vids on youtube .

GetachewT
Apr 14, 2009

I agree that the writer should have been careful in writing this article. I believe, understand that all Ethiopians contributed for our freedom. Why didn't fascist enter through East (from Somali)? That just proves contribution of all the people. However, expecting a visitor to be fluent on our history and jump on to him is unfair. Let's keep our unity from heart and be less sensitive.
Michael and Kurt, Thank you for visiting our beloved country; you are always welcome.

God Bless Ethiopia!!!
GetachewT

habeshaw
Apr 14, 2009

Thank you my Ethiopian Brothers for Jumping on this misinformed Writer, I think he did not Understand what he was writing about. The Battle of Adowa took place in Adowa Tigray and I think most of the people in Adowa are Tigre not Amhara. Ethiopians Equally Defeated the Italians The Great General Ras Alula Abanega was Tigre and Ethiopian.Menelik the king was Amhara, and the queen was Half Oromo.

ere bakih
Apr 14, 2009

er and Johnson....SHUT UP.

History proves that it was not only the Amharas. I mean think about it, why would this writer want to credit the victory to only the Amhara while it is known that the victory is for all Ethiopians ??..He is not misinformed..this is ignorance.Plus we dont care if he comes to ethiopia or not. That is his business. But he has to either shut up or be correct as much as he can. Other wise he should keep his writings only to his diary....

waygoood
Apr 14, 2009

This is funny. I dont know why you need to misinform your readers while you are writing about the semien mountains. It is not only the Amharas that repelled ITALY.How about the tigres,oromos,showans,guragees,afars,hadiyas,etc. It makes you wonder why you keep crunching our history. We are all tired of your lies and mix ups.

Kumsa
Apr 14, 2009

The Belgians used this tactic to divide the people of Rwanda, who spoke one language. Ethiopia is home to more than 80 ethnic groups and the fernjs have not been successful at dividing us. The author may have just made a mistake but he should know the many ethnic problems Europeans created on the African continent and know just how sensitive the issue is to us Africans.

Goshu
Apr 14, 2009

LEBA FERNJ, Hizbachnene lamlyayte terate yargale. FASCIST!

ANTI-DIVIDER!
Apr 14, 2009

As other readers have suggested, ALL ETHIOPIANS stopped the italian invasion. Stop trying to use your dirty tactics trying to divide us, that's why we don't trust you westerns! Get it right or SHUT THE F**** up.

Ethiopian
Apr 14, 2009

Kassa Mircha was too scared of the Europeans. First he guided the British to Makdela so that Tewodros II would be removed from power and later allowed the British troops to escape the Mahadists through Ethiopia. After receiving too much armament like present day meles saitenawi, he slaughtered untold numbers of cattle and people in Gojjam. Because he is a traitor, he arrested the great General Ras Alula for defeating an Iatlian army in Eritrea. The reason was that Kassa Mircha was too scared of the the Italian's sever punishment. Minilik II and his wife (both mostly Amhara and Oromo by blood) and the great generals of Minilik II are credited to repelling the European aggressors not traitors who were afraid of the Europenas!

JOHNSON
Apr 14, 2009

It is true the best defenders of ethiopia is the AMHARAS. Very skillful fighters such as THEODROS, MENILEK, etc

er
Apr 14, 2009

It seems just misinformation; let us not make political everything and insult the writer instead off appreciating for his willingness to come all the way to our country. He is exposing our culture and beauty to the world. Good job! Keep up the good work.

beredu
Apr 14, 2009

All Ethiopians repelled the Italians, stop trying to divide us, and research your information before you print.

kassa Haile
Apr 14, 2009

The Amhara have lived in Ethiopia for 1,000 years ? I think u got that wrong this text writer is very misinfomed.

Addisu Tulema
Apr 13, 2009

Sorry, the repealing of Italian colonizers is not the onlye resistance of the Amharas alone. All Ethiopian did it but the story seems to portray it only to Amhara ancestors. Bad misinformation!!!

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