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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

Pyrenees Traverse, France

Hike locals-only trails in Europe's other Alps. This 500-mile track combines rugged hiking by day with luxe living by night

by: Michael Lanza, Photos by Keith Fialcowitz

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Off-trail in the Vallee De Espelugiere.

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Free-range donkeys.

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River crossing in Vallee D'Aspe. Don't forget to pack poles.

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Lay over a day in picturesque Lescun.

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Above Cirque de Lescun, the trail passes under Pic D'Ansabere.

Plan It
Guidebook Trekking in the Pyrenees, by Douglas Streatfeild-James (Trailblazer Guides, $20)
Maps Randonée Pyrenees topos (omnimap.com, $17 per sheet)
Season Most years, snow melts from high passes by late June. Go before mid-July to catch the best wildflower show, or in September for the most solitude.
Essential gear Trekking poles
Need to know The route is easy to follow and there are no permits or fees required for trekking, but reserve lodging three months in advance. Camping is also allowed.
Cost DIY: $/week Info epyrenees.com; parc-pyrenees.com/index_english.htm

Europeans who want the quintessential Euro trek–without the crowds–head to France's Pyrenees and the GR 10. Like the best Alps trails, the 500-mile track combines rugged hiking by day with luxe living by night; unlike others, it's so far off the radar of most trekkers that it retains the feel of a peasant path.

The GR 10 traverses the north slope of the Pyrenees, crossing from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The route knits together pristine alpine terrain with postage-stamp villages where you can't buy so much as an overpriced T-shirt–in fact, there's often just one place to stay and eat. Most nights you'll sleep–and dine–in a dorm-style gite d'etape, or trailside hut; for foodies, the rustic Basque soup and fresh trout dinners alone are worth the trip. Just don't choose the GR 10 for a pampered "walking vacation"; you'll often hoof more than 10 miles and climb 3,000 feet a day.

The best weeklong section is the 82 miles from Ste.-Engrâce, straddling the Basque provinces of Soule and Bearn, east to Cauterets. It includes signature alpine scenes like the pyramidal 8,215-foot Pic d'Anie above the Pas d'Azuns and a night in Lescun, a village perched at the foot of sharp-edged peaks and widely considered the prettiest town in the Pyrenees.

Life-list moment: Combine beauty, history, and a glass of vin rouge on day 4, from Etsaut to Gabas. First you'll follow an 18th-century footpath chiseled by convicts directly into sheer cliffs. Called the Chemin de la Mature (the way of the masts), it was used to transport trees for ship builders in the French Navy. End the day at Refuge de Gabas, where the hostess is known as one of the route's best chefs. Near Gabas, in Parc National des Pyrenees, climbers can bag 9,462-foot Pic du Midi D'Ossau.

Bonus: The GR 10's relatively low elevation (the highest point is 8,087 feet) means sea-level hikers don't need extra time for acclimatization.

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READERS COMMENTS

Hello,

Why hasnt someopne mentioned the Stevenson Trail in France? The book he wrote on the trek is considered a pioneering classic of outdoor literature, setting the standard for the whole travelogue genre. By presenting hiking and camping outdoors as a recreational activity, Stevenson's hiking was in many respects the catalyst for the whole back-to-nature and modern hiking movement.

A great book and a fine trek through the Cevennes that is fast becoming a classic. I thoroughly recommend it after hiking it with the local British experts, The Enlightened Traveller. See:

http://www.enlightened-traveller.co.uk/pages/Package_Pages.aspx?pkId=d679adcf-a05b-4136-b404-7a841334cfe3&pgId=1001

Cheers,

NottinghamMilli

Posted: Nov 17, 2009 Anonymous

Hello, i'm a french girl working for a peruvian travel agency located in Cusco.At the moment i'm trying to develop the tourist activity in local quechua communities.Since 4 years trekkers and tourist are already welcomed to this families near to Cusco and in the highlands of Titicca lake.I want no to promote this sostainables packages available for classic tourism, backpapers, volunteers and trekkers.Do you thing it will be possible to feature in Backpapers magazine?
Thanks for your attention,
Yours faithfully
Marie Radiguet
mariastrasgrana@yahoo.fr
Travel Agency
Tierra de los Andes.
Posted: Apr 24, 2009 Marie Radiguet

My favorite part of the GR10 is the region of the Hautes Pyr�n�es (High Pyrenees) with the wonderful Cirque de Gavarnie in France and Monte Perdido in Spain. By the way, you can build your own trek using parts of the HRP (Haute Route Pyr�n�enne - that's for the REAL trekers), GR11 in Spain and local routes. Another week-end suggestion : Cauterets - Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube - col d'Aratille - Refuge Wallon - Cauterets. Or the region of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau and lacs d'Ayou. PS do not forget to book your mountain refuges in advance ; food is very good and where else in the world can you taste good wine at 3 000 m ? The book you mention is really good with lots of information but do not forget the IGN 1 : 25 000 maps. By the way, how come you didn't know this famous trek ? PS My next one is the GR20 in Corse. It should be on your list of other famous treks ! Have fun !
Posted: Apr 12, 2009 C�line Pinard

good news so you wil be happy
you got it !
Posted: Apr 05, 2009 kim y.s