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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

Pyrenees Traverse, France

Hike locals-only trails in Europe's other Alps. This 500-mile track combines rugged hiking by day with luxe living by night

by: Michael Lanza, Photos by Keith Fialcowitz

Off-trail in the Vallee De Espelugiere.
Off-trail in the Vallee De Espelugiere.
Free-range donkeys.
Free-range donkeys.
River crossing in Vallee D'Aspe. Don't forget to pack poles.
River crossing in Vallee D'Aspe. Don't forget to pack poles.
Lay over a day in picturesque Lescun.
Lay over a day in picturesque Lescun.
Above Cirque de Lescun, the trail passes under Pic D'Ansabere.
Above Cirque de Lescun, the trail passes under Pic D'Ansabere.

Plan It
Guidebook Trekking in the Pyrenees, by Douglas Streatfeild-James (Trailblazer Guides, $20)
Maps Randonée Pyrenees topos (omnimap.com, $17 per sheet)
Season Most years, snow melts from high passes by late June. Go before mid-July to catch the best wildflower show, or in September for the most solitude.
Essential gear Trekking poles
Need to know The route is easy to follow and there are no permits or fees required for trekking, but reserve lodging three months in advance. Camping is also allowed.
Cost DIY: $/week Info epyrenees.com; parc-pyrenees.com/index_english.htm

Pyrenees Traverse, France | Cape Wrath Trail, Scotland | Zillertal Alps, Austria | Tongariro Northern Circuit and Heaphy Track, New Zealand | Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia | Overland Track, Australia | Sarek National Park, Sweden | Rolwaling and Khumbu Valleys, Nepal | Polar Route, Greenland | Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia

Europeans who want the quintessential Euro trek–without the crowds–head to France's Pyrenees and the GR 10. Like the best Alps trails, the 500-mile track combines rugged hiking by day with luxe living by night; unlike others, it's so far off the radar of most trekkers that it retains the feel of a peasant path.

The GR 10 traverses the north slope of the Pyrenees, crossing from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The route knits together pristine alpine terrain with postage-stamp villages where you can't buy so much as an overpriced T-shirt–in fact, there's often just one place to stay and eat. Most nights you'll sleep–and dine–in a dorm-style gite d'etape, or trailside hut; for foodies, the rustic Basque soup and fresh trout dinners alone are worth the trip. Just don't choose the GR 10 for a pampered "walking vacation"; you'll often hoof more than 10 miles and climb 3,000 feet a day.

The best weeklong section is the 82 miles from Ste.-Engrâce, straddling the Basque provinces of Soule and Bearn, east to Cauterets. It includes signature alpine scenes like the pyramidal 8,215-foot Pic d'Anie above the Pas d'Azuns and a night in Lescun, a village perched at the foot of sharp-edged peaks and widely considered the prettiest town in the Pyrenees.

Life-list moment: Combine beauty, history, and a glass of vin rouge on day 4, from Etsaut to Gabas. First you'll follow an 18th-century footpath chiseled by convicts directly into sheer cliffs. Called the Chemin de la Mature (the way of the masts), it was used to transport trees for ship builders in the French Navy. End the day at Refuge de Gabas, where the hostess is known as one of the route's best chefs. Near Gabas, in Parc National des Pyrenees, climbers can bag 9,462-foot Pic du Midi D'Ossau.

Bonus: The GR 10's relatively low elevation (the highest point is 8,087 feet) means sea-level hikers don't need extra time for acclimatization.



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READERS COMMENTS

The Pyrenees is a fantastic wilderness backpacking area. For a taste of the highs and lows of trekking through this high, mountainous region, read my Pyrenees stories on the Backpacker Diaries website: http://jonbigg.yolasite.com/ If you enjoy reading, please let me know!
Posted: Dec 07, 2011 Jon Bigg

I throug-hiked the Pyrenees in 2003, mixing HRP, GR 10 and pieces of the GR 11(Spanish side). It took me 6 weeks.
The main difference between HRP and GR 10 is that it is (HRP) not marked. But it remains mainly on crests while the GR 10 makes numerous uo and down's to the valleys which can be long and deep.
On the HRP, a tant iand navigation skills are mandatory and some rare passages are very difficult for a lambda hiker.
According to the official guide, the thru hike from Atlantic beach to Mediterranean beach takes 41 days.
But you'll never forget any of those days.
Posted: Oct 13, 2011 Michael Rysenaer, Belgium

Somewhat disagree with the comment re Gabas - the gites at Etsaut and Gourette were much more welcoming. Gabas to Gourette is a hard day with a full pack, although Bagneres to Fos was probably the toughest. For more comments I have a 168 page account (over 300 photos) of my solo GR10 trek in the summer of 2010 at www.soulfulhorwich.org.uk/gr10.html
Posted: Jun 17, 2011 Gordon Stone

Inspired by this piece, I hiked a section of the GR10 in September '09, heading west from Cauterets. I brought an ultralight tent and split my nights between refuges, campgrounds and sleeping afield in the hills. As a relative novice, and walking solo, I found the hiking challenging but not overwhelming, and the scenery and the food were both spectacular!!! Crossing the Chemin de la Mature was truly magnificent – inspiring a mix of terror and exhilaration (though, I felt like a baby when a family on a day hike with two small children came zipping past me)! Getting in and out of the mountains was a snap, and I rewarded myself with a couple days cooling my heels on the beaches of Biarritz and San Sebastian at the end. It was an amazing week – thanks to Backpacker for the recommendation!

Andy (Washington, DC)

Posted: Apr 08, 2010 Andy

For an account of walking the GR10 see my book "If You Only Walk Long Enough: Exploring the Pyrenees". Details and reviews on http://pyreneanway.com/pyrenees-book.shtml
Posted: Mar 30, 2010 Steve Cracknell

Hello,

Why hasnt someopne mentioned the Stevenson Trail in France? The book he wrote on the trek is considered a pioneering classic of outdoor literature, setting the standard for the whole travelogue genre. By presenting hiking and camping outdoors as a recreational activity, Stevenson's hiking was in many respects the catalyst for the whole back-to-nature and modern hiking movement.

A great book and a fine trek through the Cevennes that is fast becoming a classic. I thoroughly recommend it after hiking it with the local British experts, The Enlightened Traveller. See:

http://www.enlightened-traveller.co.uk/pages/Package_Pages.aspx?pkId=d679adcf-a05b-4136-b404-7a841334cfe3&pgId=1001

Cheers,

NottinghamMilli

Posted: Nov 17, 2009 Anonymous

Hello, i'm a french girl working for a peruvian travel agency located in Cusco.At the moment i'm trying to develop the tourist activity in local quechua communities.Since 4 years trekkers and tourist are already welcomed to this families near to Cusco and in the highlands of Titicca lake.I want no to promote this sostainables packages available for classic tourism, backpapers, volunteers and trekkers.Do you thing it will be possible to feature in Backpapers magazine?
Thanks for your attention,
Yours faithfully
Marie Radiguet
mariastrasgrana@yahoo.fr
Travel Agency
Tierra de los Andes.
Posted: Apr 24, 2009 Marie Radiguet

My favorite part of the GR10 is the region of the Hautes Pyrénées (High Pyrenees) with the wonderful Cirque de Gavarnie in France and Monte Perdido in Spain. By the way, you can build your own trek using parts of the HRP (Haute Route Pyrénéenne - that's for the REAL trekers), GR11 in Spain and local routes. Another week-end suggestion : Cauterets - Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube - col d'Aratille - Refuge Wallon - Cauterets. Or the region of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau and lacs d'Ayou. PS do not forget to book your mountain refuges in advance ; food is very good and where else in the world can you taste good wine at 3 000 m ? The book you mention is really good with lots of information but do not forget the IGN 1 : 25 000 maps. By the way, how come you didn't know this famous trek ? PS My next one is the GR20 in Corse. It should be on your list of other famous treks ! Have fun !
Posted: Apr 12, 2009 Céline Pinard

good news so you wil be happy
you got it !
Posted: Apr 05, 2009 kim y.s

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