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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

Hiking New Zealand's Milford Track

Marvel at Middle Earth on this 33-mile, four-day Milford Track.

by: Kelly Bastone

Arthur River and Lake Brown on a descent called
Arthur River and Lake Brown on a descent called "Gentle Annie" (David Wall)

The Perfect Circle: Hiking the Annapurna Circuit | Chile's Torres del Paine Circuit | Corsica's GR 20 | Peru's Inca Trail to Machu Picchu | Italy's Alta Via 1 | New Zealand's Milford Track | England's Pennine Way | Tanzania's Mt. Kilimanjaro | Everest Base Camp, Tibet | Tour du Mont Blanc

Classic cred  New Zealand's landmass totals just 103,733 square miles–the same size as Colorado–but the island nation boasts more swoon-worthy "tramps" per square mile than anywhere else in the world. And the 33-mile, four-day Milford Track outranks them all. From Glade House on the northern tip of Lake Te Anau, the route crosses the trout-choked Clinton River, meanders through beech groves (Fangorn Forest in The Lord of the Rings trilogy) and vast grassy meadows and around tumbling waterfalls before climbing to 3,520-foot MacKinnon Pass, the track's highpoint. From here, you'll descend through rainforest where, at night, glowworms illuminate the undersides of thousands of ferns. At trip's end, spill into Milford Sound, where cone-shaped mountains pop 5,000 feet above shimmering waters.

Beta  Milford attracts more than 14,000 hikers per year and is therefore strictly regulated. Independent hikers lodge at huts with communal bunks and propane cookstoves, and adhere to an ironclad itinerary–no lingering, skipping huts, or tent camping. From October through April, permits are required (bookings for 2010 start on July 1), but you can have it mostly to yourself in September. Just come prepared for deep snow.

Local's tip  Time your arrival at Sandfly Point (the terminus) wisely. Too early, and you'll endure the maddening swarms of sandflies that give this spot its name. Too late, and you'll miss the 3:15 ferry. Lingering inside treeline is your best bet. Get ferry tickets (NZ$29) at the Department of Conservation office in Te Anau before your hike.

Plan It  Curl up with Jim DuFresne's Tramping in New Zealand (Lonely Planet, $22) for inspiration and mile-by-mile descriptions. Reserve permits at doc.govt.nz (NZ$135).

Cost  DIY: $ // Guided: $$$



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READERS COMMENTS

Truly one of the highlights of my young life! I was fortunate to make this trek 5 years ago. If you can't do the Milford, you can drive to Sound and see the magnificent scenery by boat.

New Zealand has so many other amazing treks as well. Personally, I'd recommend the Rees-Dart and Kepler! Those were two of my favorites!!!
Posted: Feb 04, 2012 Justin Thibeault

I did the Milford Track using the private guide system. Having never done any hike longer than a half day--I wanted the security of "professionals." The experience was a once in a lifetime experience!
Posted: Feb 02, 2012 Diana

New Zealand is a perfect, ideal place for adventure holidays.We have wonderful holidays there at the http://wwwadventureetravelshop.co.uk. I have had some of the best walking holidays in my in NZ. Thanks for the memories! Robert
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 adbenture travel shop

I did all 9 great walks (plus many great day hikes) in New Zealand. This is probably the best of the 9 but all are wonderful. They certainly show the best of New Zealand. The trips are booked through the Department of Conservations website which is very easy to navigate. As I did not book the Milford in July (it books out in the first week), I must have went online 30x to get a cancellation. There are also private guided trips available that use different huts but they are expensive and who needs a guide to do any of these great tramps.
Posted: Jan 05, 2012 Ron Perrier

The best four days of hiking in my life were spent hiking the Milford Track in 2010. Below is a link to my trail journal, including pictures.

http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?trailname=10539
Posted: Jan 05, 2012 Jim

My husband and I spent one amazing month hiking and touring New Zealand for our 30th wedding anniversary. It is an incredibly beautiful place; we kept comparing it to the best of CA, Switzerland, Cornwall, etc... every turn was filled with something wonderful to see and do. We did the Milford Track, Routeburn and Tongariro Crossing... plus some usual touristy things. We spent most of our time on the south Island. Worth every penny spent to get there, we hope to return someday.
Posted: May 26, 2011 c.lankford

The Milford Track is the most famous route is roaming the mountains and beautiful scenery, temperate rainforest. It is recognized as the finest walk in all over the world. Milford Track, 53.5 km on foot is a renowned tourist attraction in New Zealand, Australia.
http://www.travelaustralia360.com/milford-track-new-zealand.html
Posted: Nov 15, 2010 Milford Track Tours

The Milford Track is the most famous route is roaming the mountains and beautiful scenery, temperate rainforest. It is recognized as the finest walk in all over the world. Milford Track, 53.5 km on foot is a renowned tourist attraction in New Zealand, Australia.
http://www.travelaustralia360.com/milford-track-new-zealand.html
Posted: Nov 15, 2010 Milford Track Tours

Trip to Milford would be the best trip to enjoy. There are grassy meadow and tumbling waterfall and many more. It is very amazing place to spend our vacation with family and friends.So never miss the opportunity if you get there.
http://www.australiavoyage.net/milford-track-in-new-zealand.html
Posted: Sep 21, 2010 milford track tours

Get on the Air New Zealand "watch list" for cheap flights. We have found some great deals. If you're flexible, it's afordable and the South Island is by far and away the most beautiful place on earth.
Posted: Apr 19, 2010 Craig Elliott

Plan at least a month for hiking if you ever make it to New Zealand. Yes, the Milford is an incredible trek, but it is not the best in New Zealand. There are many great Treks as well as lesser know gems. You could spend a life time hiking there, with every turn being another incredible view. Simply amazing place. Well worth it what ever the airline expense is to get there.
Posted: May 14, 2009 Roger

....but can't afford the heavy expense of the flight to New Zealand from Canada.

Air NZ and Qantus have real good cheap deals for coach flight. $800 return to the states just get the hook up flight from Canada to either LA or NY.

Posted: Apr 24, 2009 Valnor

My Dad did this trip when he was 18 as a navvy on the Milford road in 1930. He absolutely loved it.
Posted: Apr 06, 2009 Honora

To Bad we can't win trips like they give out gear.(Backpacker Magazine)
I've been dreaming of hiking this trail for years.
but can't afford the heavy expense of the flight to New Zealand from Canada.

One of my all time dreams is to hike the Milford Track.

One day.


Posted: Mar 26, 2009 Robert Buchan

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