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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

Hiking Chile's Torres del Paine Circuit

Trek through the earth's wildest mountain range.

by: Kelly Bastone

Stop at Lake Pehoe for this view of Torres del Paine. (Tom Bol)

Classic cred With apologies to Grand Canyon's Grandview Point, Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver, and Mt. Whitney's summit, the Torres del Paine circuit will give your eyeballs a whole new gauge for "the best view you've ever seen." Here, blue glaciers saw into the earth, exotic animals–like the llama-esque guanacos–dot the hillsides, and the mountains themselves take on wild, seemingly impossible shapes. The 52-mile, 10-day loop, which sits 1,500 miles south of Santiago, encircles the Torres del Paine–8,000- to 10,000-foot granite monoliths that twist and curl like frozen waves of rock above glacial lakes studded with icebergs. Go ahead, linger at each pretty spot: The sun doesn't set until 10 p.m. in summer.

Beta Fly into Punta Arenas, on the Straights of Magellan, the world's southernmost city. Then bus it three hours north to Puerto Natales, the park's gateway town. Forgo the crowded huts in favor of camping (sites are next to each hut) and follow the trail's orange markers counterclockwise to conquer the biggest climbs early. From the trailhead, you'll follow the Rio Paine to Lago Dickson, and see spiky peaks coming into view as the trail skirts Dickson and Los Perros Glaciers. The descent from 4,000-foot John Gardner Pass, the circuit's highpoint, deposits you at the edge of Grey Glacier; camp here to watch crumbling ice thunder into the water. Cold winds blow all year, but December through March offers your best weather window, with highs in the upper 50s and the lowest chance of precip all year.

Local's tip Pre-hike, crash at the Erratic Rock Hostel (erraticrock.com) in Puerto Natales, where $14 buys you a bed, shower, and a Trekker's Breakfast of eggs, potatoes, and nuclear-strength coffee. It's three blocks from the park information center.

Plan It Get Trekking in the Patagonian Andes (Lonely Planet, $20) for trail descriptions and insider advice. Guides and permits aren't required, but for the comfort of an outfitted trip, go with BikeHike Adventures (bikehike.com). It offers nine-day treks with an overnight at the new EcoCamp, where the geodesic lodges and dining hall are all carbon-neutral. Pick up a free trekker's map at the park entrance.

Cost DIY: $ // Guided: $$$$

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READERS COMMENTS

I'm going to Torres del Paine this March and April (2012)--what is a good stove to take? I'm wondering about fuel possibilities.
Posted: Jan 14, 2012 Diane Goettlicher

I was hoping to head to Chile for this one based on various recommendations, but found it very difficult and expensive to get into Chile. Instead I went to the north part of Parque Nacional los Glaciares in Argentina. You bus up to El Chalten and hike around Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy. You can get pretty much free reign to wander, and the river water doesn't even need to be treated since hikers haven't polluted it yet. Definitely recommended!
Posted: Jun 02, 2011 Roger

Great photo of Torres by Bol. Wouldn't expect anything less.
Posted: Jan 28, 2011 Anonymous

The Circuit's a fantastic trek. I've posted about the first few days <a href="http://blog.wildvista.com/starting-the-paine-circuit-trekking-in-patagonia/">here</a>. Plenty of photos to give a feel for the awe-inspiring surroundings.
Posted: Jan 26, 2010 Paul Filby

Let's just get our names right. Those twisted peaks with black shale over lighter granite are the Cuernos (Horns) del Paine and they make the most recognizable vista anywhere. The Torres del Paine are three granite spires that you get to by going up the Rio Ascencio. And the large chunky mountain in between is Monte Almirante Nieto. Just for the sake of accuracy - so if you go you don't play the role of ignorant foreigner.
Posted: May 04, 2009 Michael Silverberg

I've been systematically trekking the best hikes in the world and this is one of my favorites. You can check our my review, which includes descriptions, photos, a story, a map, and elevations. You can see this at http://www.greattreks.com/greattreks/TopTen/AnnapurnaCircuitHome.asp

Jeff
Posted: May 03, 2009 Jeff Salvage

I highly recommend this route - went there in December and did the "W". I was there in December and the winds were strong and it was rainy, so still make sure to pack the right gear.

The Chilean residents are great and will answer any questions you have. Many speak English.
Posted: Apr 23, 2009 Tammy

There is a big myth that Torres del Paine is seasonal. Puerto Natales is open all year, and the weather is calmer than in summer. Colder, but calmer.
Posted: Mar 24, 2009 Leal Grant

I was just in Torres del Paine and Erratic Rock offers a free info session everyday! They know what their talking about.
Posted: Mar 24, 2009 Bodie Venton