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Backpacker Magazine – March 2009

The Perfect Circle: Hiking the Annapurna Circuit

Nepal's Annapurna Circuit can't compete with the world's best treks for lavish huts, extreme solitude, and sumptuous cuisine. So why is it still number one? Let us count the reasons.

by: Shannon Davis

PAGE 1 2 3 4 5
Ascetic yogis are regulars on the circuit (Braden Gunem)
Ascetic yogis are regulars on the circuit (Braden Gunem)
A teahouse in Gunsang (Shannon Davis)
A teahouse in Gunsang (Shannon Davis)
Emily on a trail cut into wall of Marsyangdi Gorge (Shannon Davis)
Emily on a trail cut into wall of Marsyangdi Gorge (Shannon Davis)
Kali Gandaki River Valley (Craig W. Gibson)
Kali Gandaki River Valley (Craig W. Gibson)

Q&A WITH SHANNON DAVIS
Get the inside dish on the Annapurna Circuit from BACKPACKER Associate Editor Shannon Davis.

PHOTO GALLERY SPECIAL
Check out the sights and scenes on the Annapurna Circuit with Davis' two photo-packed slideshows.

photo icon  Annapurna Circuit Slideshow, Part I

photo icon  Annapurna Circuit Slideshow, Part II

Going off about how this is the sweetest trek in the world is like naming The Grateful Dead your new favorite band. What a discovery! Such bold taste!

Fact is, the Annapurna Circuit is so well-known it's as much cliché as trek. The 128-mile horseshoe-shaped route circles Nepal's heaven-high Annapurna range, and it's been hailed as the holy grail of trekking since it was first opened to foreigners in the early 1980s. Travel writers and hikers everywhere gush about the trail, even as others discover unknown life-listers elsewhere. There are treks that are more rugged or more remote, huts that are more luxe, pilgrimage sites that are more holy, wildlife that's more exotic, and even scenery–sacrilege!–that's more beautiful. Can another trail please step up and swipe Annapurna's crown?

Afraid not. After hiking the circuit myself last fall, with my wife Emily on our honeymoon, I must join the chorus of Annapurna groupies. It's simply the best. Here's why:

It Gets Better Every Day

For instant gratification, go to New Zealand. You'll be able to snap photos of the postcard-perfect mountains from the trailhead. But compared to such instant-access treks (the bon-bons of the hiking world), the Annapurna Circuit is a 12-course dinner.

It starts with jungle–a monkey-and-banana tree tangle that's a total shock even if you've been forewarned. Sweat pours off us like rain as we climb through terraced rice fields carved out of greenery. Two days later–where are the mountains?–we walk through a canyon so narrow and deep that direct sunshine only penetrates at noon. A day after that, we're in pines so tall and dense, I think of Oregon.

Finally–slowly–the high Himalaya emerges in sneak peeks and tantalizing vistas. And then the big magic: On our 10th day, as we approach 17,768-foot Thorung La, the highest point of the circuit, suddenly there's nothing but mountains. We're alone in a choppy sea of 20,000-foot peaks. Spindrift unfurls off four of the world's 10 highest summits, which loom on every horizon, their fluted walls reflecting the sun's rays so brightly that they burn ridgeline silhouettes into our retinas. When Annapurna III and Gangapurna come into view, I have the same feeling in my chest that I had the first time I peered into the Grand Canyon: a light, wide-eyed inhale of surprise. Sounds and smells fade; my vision sharpens. I can see every minute feature on those corrugated ice-and-rock walls. I'm just a pair of eyes, floating amid the peaks like a helium balloon.


PAGE 1 2 3 4 5

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READERS COMMENTS

A great trek: I went in Dec. 2005 when the civil war was full in swing. That, and because it was late in the season made it so there were not too many people(trekkers) there, but there were a few from the world over and it was a great even if a bit edgy because of the war . Yes, I did have to pay a bribe/travel fee to the guerillas, but I would have to say that they were congenial and not so near a nuisance as the Royalist Army that was pretty much everywhere except the more remote areas closer to the Tibetan Border. The Trek I did then was 166 miles around the circuit, and, yes, they were working on roads at that time(in a very primitive way). Going up to see the 87 year old Lhama living in a cliffside above Manang with a view of the town below and Tillicho Glacier, along with marinated Yak steaks with mushrooms and then a huge slice of Apple Pie afterwards is one memory I will never forget.
If you go late in the season as I did bring Ice Trekkers for your boots or something similar, for the pass. I used a zero degree bag (TNF Snowshoe-same bag as on the Inca Trail). It was "just enough" for the Zero Degree ambient temperature near the Thorung -La. I could write a lot more poignant, informative words here, but just be prepared for short stints in Jungle, Desert, Alpine and Arctic terrains(if late in the season) and spend as little time in Kathmandu as possible.
Posted: Jan 05, 2012 Robert

Sadly parts of the Annapurna circuit have now been converted to a road. There are efforts being made to develop a "new annapurna circuit" along the other side of the Kali Gandaki. However, it is expected that new areas like around Manaslu will become more popular once tea houses are built on that route.

Cheers
Sujoy
www.sujoyrdas.blogspot.com
Posted: Nov 07, 2011 Sujoy Das

I'm sooo excited! I leave in 10 days to do the circuit!!! Its July, it will be rainy and I'm sure I will battle the leeches too, but still cannot wait! thanks for the inspiring article!
Posted: Jul 03, 2011 amy subaey

Can anyone tell me what permits/visa an American will need to do this circuit, if coming from Kathmandu? Thanks for the info and stories I am really excited!
Posted: Apr 22, 2011 Michael Justich

A Complete Travel Agency and Tour Operator for Nepal Tibet and Bhutan Holiday Package, Tours Package Nepal, cycling Holiday Nepal Tibet and Much More Climbing And Expedition with Nepal Himalaya Trekking Package with Everest Base Camp
For More detail Please Visit your site

www.trip2himalaya.com

Posted: Feb 28, 2011 Himalayan Glory Travel Nepal

Is there any way we can get a gear list with articles like this? We subscribe to backpacker and in thinking through trips and with an ever growing assortment of gear we always wonder, which sleeping bag do we take? -20, 0, 20, etc? A list of what you brought, what worked and didn't work would be awesome for this and all travel related articles.
Posted: Oct 13, 2009 Chua

i guided a small group from vermont to annapurna region for 12days trek and it was a great trip. we started from pokhara side with the first night in ulleri then the final climb of thorung la. it was a great trek with a happy group and i will definately be going back!!
Posted: Aug 12, 2009 ongyel sherpa

Annapurna is an great trek. I did it a couple of years ago and wrote up a complete review at http://www.greattreks.com/greattreks/TopTen/AnnapurnaCircuitHome.asp Check it out. We have photos, stories,a map, elevations, etc.
Posted: May 03, 2009 Jeff Salvage

i am traveling to india this summer ( for work )and plan on taking an extra month to go to nepal and see this trek, you and backpacker magazine have inspired me. Thank you
Posted: Mar 19, 2009 chris vitte

Thanks for writing about my Country dude.I loved it here in IRAQ.

Cheers,
Posted: Mar 14, 2009 Pranai Rai

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