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Backpacker Magazine – March 2011

Rip & Go: Pine Tree Loop

Paddle to shoreline solitude, then perch on dunes above the Atlantic Ocean in Maryland's Assateague Island National Seashore.

by: Amy Reinink

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Hear the wind rustling through eelgrass as the sun sets over the mainland, then feast on fresh-caught clams on this easy, 12-mile, two-day canoe trip along the jigsaw-jagged coast of Assateague Island's bay. Rent a canoe and clam rake (see Trip Planner), tank up on water at the ranger station (there are no springs), and put in at the sandy, grass-fringed launch (1) on Bayside Drive. Assess the wind: A gentle breeze here can mean frothy whitecaps on Sinepuxent Bay's deep-blue, brackish waters. Heard around the sandy tip and paddle southwest for a mile to the lee of Great Egging Island (2). Continue heading southeast toward Tingles Island, a sequence of shrub-covered islets just off Assateague's western shore. Cross into Chincoteague Bay, and hug the wax myrtle- and bayberry-covered Lumber Marsh (3) for protection from wind and waves. Steer right around a narrow, grass-covered finger (4) extending into the bay, and continue toward the low-lying center of Tingles Island one mile south. Weave through a shallow inlet (5), barely wide enough for your canoe, paddling quietly to avoid scaring herons that nest here alongside 300 other species of birds. Turn left when you see a square sign (6) pointing toward the Pine Tree campsite at mile 5.8, and head for the thick grove of loblolly pines. Hike .3 mile through the coastal lowlands, and set up camp (7) in a pine-ringed clearing. Strap on your water shoes: It's time to harvest dinner (See Key Skill). Day two, rise before dawn, pack a thermos of coffee or bring your kitchen gear, and walk a mile along the use path (see Topo Tip) through reedy marshes to a wide swath of sandy beach. Park yourself on a dune (8) overlooking the water, and watch the sun peek over the Atlantic as waves crash onshore. Head back to your canoe and pack up for the return trip. Get a different view of Tingles Island by steering around the western side (9) en route to the launch.

Trip Planner
Get there From Washington, D.C., take US 50 east toward Ocean City. Turn south on MD 611 and go eight miles to Sinepuxent District Ranger Station.
 
Gear up Rent canoes ($60/day) and clam rakes ($15/day) from Maryland Coastal Bays on Bayside Drive. (410) 726-3217.
 
Permit  Required; $5, pick up at ranger station. (410) 641-3030; nps.gov/asis
 
Map Print nautical chart #12211; charts.noaa.gov
 

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READERS COMMENTS

Just did this trip this past weekend, and it was simply amazing, if anyone is looking for a one night paddling trip, this one is very hard to top!!
Posted: May 02, 2011 byrd

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