READERS COMMENTS

I have used this technique several times. Once to drop about 70 degree wall 45 feet into a canyon. It is very easy to control descent. Slow is the way to go. Safety over speed!
Posted: Aug 23, 2009 oldsponger

Novice comment: Rappel safety seems = 9+, IF there is an additional belay for safety and good ropes. And both people are confident in the skill. Do it slowly! I did a huge rappel as graduation from a 1 day class (1972- no not '92 or '02). Half was free drop. Maybe on a hemp rope, as nylon was "new," and slick. No gloves, as body friction was enough to halt you. If you let go, or twist out- well belay would stop you. I'd do it again, off anything, with a trusted partner & TWO ropes (belay). It was the way it was done.
- FYI - This started with my daughter due to "Myth Busters" - Jail breaks. I'd rappel now with twisted toilet paper rope. And a GOOD belay with a trusted partner and belay (rappel,not by hand).
-It seems VERY LOW for safety for anything else, like no belay, lack of confidence or skill, bad rope. Including an emergency. "We can maybe walk away from the top - cold, tired, dehydrated, late, etc. We can't walk from the bottom if it doesn't work out." (Half of us are down there?)
- With practice a few times, I'd absolutely let my kids do it. But unless they knew how, I probably wouldn't have the rope. Or have gotten stuck there to begin with.
- from some one who is more recent than me "Never let someone talk you into setting off (PERIOD) over an edge on rappel if you still have questions or don't feel comfortable, and never, ever take your brake hand off the rope."
- He probably had 'gear'. And I'd go off the edge with him, old style - without the 'gear', but two ropes.
Posted: Nov 07, 2008 Fred Samuel

I did this once to try it out. We abseiled a 4 metre 60 degree bluff. The run out was a soft snowy slope. My partner booted a bollard out of brittle rock to anchor off. It was OK but as mentioned, modern fabrics cause rope burn in your groin so you have to do it slowly! When I showed it to someone in a practice situation, and they tried it out, they fell (uninjured). We absolutely cracked up, laughing.
Posted: Aug 22, 2008 Honora Renwick

This technique is inadvisable for free-hanging rappels. If your route takes you over an overhang, find another route.
Posted: Jul 31, 2008 Chris

Yes, today this is an emergency technique. But it should be noted that until the 1930's this was THE premier rappel technique, by which many of the world's premier peaks were climbed and descended. Take it for what it is; an ace in the hole for a situation that's unlikely to ever happen. But if it does... this is a solid, safe way down, coming from someone who's done it more than once (watch out for rope burn on spendy outerwear, by the way). If you can't hold a doubled rope securely, you probably shouldn't own one. Just my .02
Posted: Jul 16, 2008 Dave

If you have never tried it, not even for practice, his is a 1 (just in emergencies). The method helps on other situations only if you know what you are doing and have previous experience. Be careful. Like you said above: get a carabiner and check this site for some quick rope techniques...
http://www.animatedknots.com/harness/index.php

Posted: Jul 16, 2008 Hernan

Depends on how steep and tall the cliff is? Seriously, I'm thinking it's a .5--it better be a real emergency, not just late for a pick-up. I've done this before as a demonstration but only on fairly flat ground. It works, but like he says, lose the rope and lose your life. I mean, how many times have you dropped your keys when you thought you had a good grip? Carabiners and ATC's are cheap if you know you're going over.
Posted: Jul 09, 2008 fallingteacher

On a scale of 1 (only in emergencies) and 10 (fine to do whenever) how safe would you say this rappel is?
Posted: Jul 02, 2008 Lisa Melendy

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