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Backpacker Magazine – June 2000

Washington's Juniper Dunes: Not So High, But Dry

In a region known for soggy times, Juniper Dunes is a warm sandbox where you can dry out.

by: Andrew Engelson

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It's spring in the Northwest, you're trapped under overcast skies, and the trails in the Cascades are still thick with snow. But there's an escape hatch if you're longing to bail out of the soup: the desert oasis of the Juniper Dunes Wilderness in Washington.

Occupying 7,100 acres, Juniper Dunes is a vest-pocket wilderness where the sublime is in the details. Don't expect sapphirelike glacial tarns, high peaks, or old-growth rainforest. Instead, you'll find groves of western juniper, a camel of a tree that can survive on 8 inches of rain a year. This area supports the world's greatest concentration of this species found this far north.

And you'll find sand. Hiking through the gate (the entire wilderness is fenced), you'll feel as though you've been set free in an oversize sandbox. There are no established trails, so you'll get to test your map and compass skills. If you get turned around, no worries; you'll eventually hit a fence line.

Juniper Dunes can be brutally hot in summer, with temperatures topping the century mark, so visit in spring or fall. Regardless of the season, don't expect to find water. Pack in all you'll need; you'll be rewarded for the effort. The wilderness preserves a fascinating and rare ecosystem. Much of eastern Washington looked like this before the advent of irrigation, which turned wildlands into an agricultural breadbasket. Grasses, sagebrush, and wildflowers thrive in the dry conditions.

About 4 miles into the heart of the wilderness, we found a high dune and set up camp in the shade of a crooked juniper. Mule deer ambled by and snacked on grass. Western kingbirds fluttered in the juniper branches, squabbling over berrylike cones, pungent with the odor of gin. Looking out on the parade of dunes, you can imagine how this land looked 200 years ago, when Lewis and Clark cruised down the Snake River not far from here.

Eventually, I remembered that we, too, had to head back to the soggy lands west of the Cascades. Before hiking back to the car, I realized we'd packed in too much water. I lightened my load by pouring my imported rainwater on a juniper. For a weekend in the sun, it's a fair trade.


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READERS COMMENTS

Steve M.
Feb 22, 2009

I hike/camp here frequently. Great stargazing and wildflowers (March-May). Unfortunately the area outside the fence is being trashed by motorcycles and ATV's. Some have even cut the fence on occasion, and entered the wilderness area. Hope BLM can keep these idiots out...

Anyway, to get to the hikine area here's the route: Go north on the Kahlotus HWY (Lewis Street & HWY 12) about 5 miles to Peterson Road. A large fake Sign threatens "PRIVATE ROAD--STAY OUT". This is a ruse by some of the locals to keep traffic down--BLM has a lease to allow public access. Drive in (gravel/dirt) almost exactly 4 miles (you will see "Public Access" signs about 2 miles in). At 4 miles turn right on "Juniper Road". This is the ATV area and is sadly trashed. Stay on the main path & drive about 3 miles to "Wilderness Road". Turn right (a 4x4 will be needed) and drive 1 mile to fence/trailhead. Check out YouTube (Juniper Forest) for my latest hike/camp. Enjoy

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