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Backpacker Magazine – August 2010

New Life List: Bag a Remote Peak

Stand alone atop Washington's Glacier Peak--a summit that others rarely see, let alone climb.

by: Michael Lanza


Key Skill: Scrambling
Each of the three routes above requires good technique, sure hands and feet, and
a level head to scale exposed, class 3 or 4 terrain.

» Make slow moves, always maintaining three points of contact. Look at each foot and hand placement, and test holds by hitting them with the heel of your hand; a hollow sound indicates loose rock.

» When ascending, move your feet up first, so you can more easily reach higher handholds. And push upward using your leg muscles, rather than always pulling with your arms. When descending, face the rock, and move your hands to lower holds first, allowing you to then step your feet down.

» Resist the urge to hug the rock. Keep your hips back, directly above your feet, for optimum balance and friction.

» Stay within several feet of your partner, so any rocks accidentally sent tumbling don’t gain velocity before reaching a companion. And wear a helmet.





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