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Gear Details: Boots

Rapace GTX

Manufacturer: Salewa

SKU: 61017

Product Details:
Product Year2011
Usage:Mountaineering: Leather uppers; very stiff, supportive soles; minimal seams; excellent traction; and are waterproof. They are high-cut and are also crampon compatible.
Height:midcut
Sole Construction:proprietary construction
Upper:Nubuck leather, Split-grain leather, Synthetic leather
Membrane:Gore-Tex
Lining:Partial leather, Synthetic fabric
Sizing
Sizes Narrow? Wide? Weight Price
Men's Sizes 7 - 12 1>, 4 259
Women's Sizes 6 - 10 1, 2 259
The light weight, agile upper, and high-tech materials make it the perfect boot for light mountaineering on tech routes. The perfect choice for mountain guides and rescue groups.

READER REVIEWS

Page 1

"The lightest, most comfortable crampon-compatible boot I've ever worn” according to one of the Climbing Magazine Editors. It was no surprise that the SALEWA Rapace GTX won the 2011 Climbing Magazine Editors’ Choice Award.

When doing initial research on a new pair of hiking boots, reviews like these should not go unnoticed so I decided to try on a pair in one of Barcelona´s many outdoors stores. I first had my mind set on the lighter Alp Trainer Mid, which actually had won another prize: the Backpacker Magazine 2011 Editor's Choice Award but I decided against it after having tried it. Although very comfortable at first fit, the Alp Trainer just did not have the support and stiffness I was looking for. Don´t get me wrong: the Alp Trainer Mid is an excellent boot and if it were to be your only pair of boots for all-round use, I think it is an excellent choice that will be good enough for 90% of recreational hiking.

However, if you have more than one pair of hiking boots, it is recommendable to choose them towards the extremes. I prefer light trail running shoes for most hikes on easy trails with light packs. Only for the more extreme hikes with uneven surface, boulders, heavy packs, snow and crampon this kind of trainers are just not good enough. There is always a lot of overlap. I have done plenty of tougher hikes using light footwear but also the other way around. Normally you always get there anyway but a word of warning is appropriate. Let me roughly explain the three categories of footwear most recreational hikers have to choose from and what is best for whom:

A) Trail running shoes: These look like normal running shoes but provide better support. The soles are generally tougher and the shoes will be constructed in a way that they give better protection from bad weather and trail conditions.
B) Cross hiker: Something in between serious boots and trainers. Easy to break in and comfortable from day one. These are mostly made of leather with a good sole but they are not stiff enough for use in uneven terrain or with heavy packs. Can be low cut or up to ankles.
C) Off-trail boots: Heavy stiff boots that are intended for rough uneven terrain. They provide ankle support as they are cut over the ankle. They have a more technical construction using toe caps, a stiff outsole and a molded midsole. They are waterproof and breathable (using a Goretex lining normally).
D) Mountaineering boots: As heavy, tough and stiff as it gets. These are used to climb high mountains under extreme conditions. They are often used in combination with crampons and typically have special attachment points at the heel part of the sole for securing crampons. Some Mountaineering Boots have a hard plastic shell with a pivot at the ankle almost like skiing boots. These work best with ice climbing but are understandably uncomfortable for long hiking. More flexible variations use leather in combination with highly technical fabrics to achieve the best combination of maximum support while maintaining some level of comfort and breathability. Mountaineering Boots have additional insulation to protect against lower temperatures.

For most of us, category C is stiff enough for all recreational hiking and it is great to have an additional pair in the A/B category for lighter hikes.

The Salewa Rapace GTX is a category C-D boot according to the specifications although I was actually pleasantly surprised how light (660g) and comfortable this boot is. Definitely more C than D. After purchasing my pair only one week before hiking up the Posets (3.371m) I was not able to break them in properly other than a few flat walks to my office some days before. I decided to take precautions during the Posets hike and stuff an extra pair of light trail running shoes in my pack just to be able to switch boots now and then to avoid problems. In the end I probably walked 8 of the 16 hours hiking on my new boots and the other half on my trainers. This turned out to be a good idea to avoid blisters or other problems. I noticed a slightly rubbed spot on my ankle but nothing worth mentioning. Either way, I think it is good to be careful on long hikes with new boots and take a lighter spare pair along on your first trip. You will almost always get blisters if you don´t, normally already within a few hours. Salewa´s No-Blister guarantee (yes, really) is a great promise but I would not trust their word for it on big hikes. Also, I have my doubts whether any Spanish outdoors shop owner would give you your money back if you returned a used pair of boots claiming the No-Blister guarantee. No way Jose, this ain´t the USA.

Two weeks later I had to use the Rapaces again, this time for a more serious ascend: Aneto (3.404 m). Known for its rough terrain, big boulders, glacier and narrow passage at the top, using serious boots on the Aneto is an absolute must. Of course, with ideal conditions, you will probably make it to the top on light trekking boots but the risk of sprayed ankles, cold wet feet, slipping or damaging your knees with inappropriate footwear is not worth it.

And my Rapaces did not let me down. They are light enough not to feel them slowing you down but supportive enough to place your feet on almost anything with confidence. The Vibram sole has a coarse profile that provides excellent grip on moist boulders and finer rocks or mud. It is also extremely stiff so I did not feel anything poking through even when standing on thin ridges or pointy stones.

I am not sure whether the steel wires (the 3F System) that surround the ankle are really necessary or just a product marketing feature but one way or the other the ankles are kept in place at all times.

A feature with a more obvious benefit is the two-layered inner sole (the Multi-Fit Footbed). This is actually a very simple but nifty feature that I had never seen before. The lay-in sole consists of two thin soles that are kept together with Velcro patches. By using one or both you can fine-tune your fit depending on the thickness of your socks. The Rapace GTX is true to size but this little extra can make a difference in comfort.

Unfortunately (for this review that is) we had great conditions for the Aneto ascend so I cannot really say a lot about the waterproofness nor insulation of this pair of boots. The few little ponds I stepped into and the snowy glacier we crossed kept my socks dry but that is the least one can expect from boots in this category. At all times my feet were warm but never too hot with one pair of hiking socks of medium thickness.

Another product quality I am not able to review fully is durability. So far they look like new but I do not know how they will look like in five years from now. This said, I was lucky to meet a guy in the refugio with the same pair of boots who had them for two years now and was still happy with them. I did not notice any significant wear apart from replaced laces and scratches on the rubber toe caps from having been stuck in cracks.

Summary
Although advertised as a mountaineering boot, I found the Salewa Rapace GTX very comfortable without losing stiffness or support. They need little breaking in, look good and are very light for their category. The only drawback is its price which is a bit on the high end.

Posted by Rob Goris, Nov 11, 2011 Star Star Star Star Star

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Q.} Dear Kristin,

I'm allergic to down, but I like its compressibility. I’ve been trying to find a synthetic bag that packs as well as a down one. But do you know anyone who makes a hypoallergenic down sleeping bag or am I stuck with synthetics? 
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A.} Dear Greg,

Guess what? You are probably not allergic to down. You are likely allergic to the dust particles that remain in down that is not cleaned and processed properly. Or dust mites. Or mold that can grow in an im properly stored down bag. Some tips: Forget about buying a bag that’s labeled 750-fill power or under. Those are lesser quality downs that might have you sneezing and wheezing all night. If you opt for an 850-fill power or higher bag, you’re getting only the fluffiest down plumules that have been thoroughly cleaned.

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