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Backpacker Magazine – October 2005

Mountaineering Fitness: Climb Like Ed

Got summit fever? The sky's the limit with a fitness plan and climbing tips from world-class mountaineer Ed Viesturs.

by: Rob Lamme

©David Emmite
In May, mountaineering legend Ed Viesturs became the first American to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks when he reached the top of Nepal's fabled Annapurna. In the following pages, Ed tells us just how he does it--and how you can, too, whether you're gunning for Rainier or the toughest peak in your neck of the woods. You'll learn everything from how to pick a hiking partner to what to eat at 14,000 feet. You'll also get an exclusive look at his training regimen (don't worry, we modified it for mere mortals). Follow Ed's five-step plan, and you'll soon be racking up your own list of killer summits.

STEP 1
Pick The Right Mountain

As a teenager, Viesturs was itching to climb Rainier. But he knew enough to know that he didn't know how to climb the 14,411-foot, glaciated peak. So he went to Mt. St. Helens (pre-eruption) to hone his skills. Five months later, he reached Rainier's snowy summit. Viesturs's advice for choosing a mountain is to start small. Research the skills you'll need, like hiking in crampons or navigating off-trail. Then find a peak that lets you master them in a safe environment.


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READERS COMMENTS

Thanks to Steve Parker for his brilliant posting. Just a small spelling correction: your specific foot complaint is called plantar fasciitis, and the area involved is the plantar fascia.

To Greg Salvo: The EXERCISE listed in the article where you don't extend your knee over your toes is a BALANCE IMPROVING EXERCISE. It's not a technique for hiking or climbing, it's an EXERCISE to improve your ability to participate in and successfully carry out those activities.

Excellent and helpful article! Thanks
Posted: Jan 06, 2010 A Martin

It's like the old adage -- "Anything you do is better than nothing at all".

A few years back, at 53, I thought my hiking days were nearly over. I had a bad case of plantar faceitous (inflammation of the tendons on the bottom of the feet) and a great deal of pain in my knees, hips, and lower back. In addition, my energy level was starting to wain; I felt like I had mud in my veins. I started analyzing everything and made changes to remedy the weaknesses.

The analysis yielded the following:
1) I was carrying too much body weight, and this was something I could control. I researched what kind of calorie budget would sustain me at my optimum weight, then planned a diet that would make me run a 500 calorie per day deficit until I reached the optimum weight. A 3500 calorie per week deficit would mean one pound of weight loss, and I have sustained this for seven months. In addition, I balanced my vitamins by eating plenty of raw fruits and vegetables, and paid attention to anti-oxidants and Omega 3 fatty acids. When eating meat, I would use leaner cuts (though tougher, these are lower in fat, can be softened up by marinating, and happily, are less expensive). To date I have lost about twenty five pounds, in the process increasing my energy level. I also drink lots of water.

2) I studied my shoes and spent what I needed to spend to get shoes that were tortionally stable, had good moisture control, and fit well in the heels and toes. I got cortisone shots to reduce the inflammation in the plantar faces, and did toe raises and stretches to strengthen the tendons in the bottom of my feet. I also made sure that my feet pointed straight ahead when I walked so that I wouldn't strain my hips, knees and ankles. I used good wicking socks with bands at the instep and heel to add additional support and moisture control. I stopped using fanny backs for day hikes; these were bad for my lower back and hips.

3) I did exercise that was sustainable -- brisk walking. I walk five miles per day, and on weekends I try to do something with some vertical involved. I have done this for seven months with noticeable results. I will now be adding core strengthening and running to move up to the next fitness level. I plan also to add swimming to increase my oxygen carrying capacity.

4) A dangerously bad performance on a climb in bad weather sent me to the doctor for a physical. Blood work with the physical indicated that I had an under active thyroid which required a prescription. The medication has helped reinstate my energy level and led to better control of my weight. Higher energy and fitness levels have made me a more dependable hiking partner (I think).

Posted: Dec 29, 2009 Steve Parker

^^^ Greg can't climb a flight of stairs without tripping over his ego
Posted: Dec 29, 2009 Lil Jimmy

I'll bet you a lifetime subscription to your magazine that Ed Viesturs can't climb a flight of stairs without his knee extending over his toes on his standing leg. No one can, why do we limit our training with this "tip".
salvopla@aol.com
Posted: Apr 24, 2009 Greg Salvo

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