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Backpacker Magazine – Gear Guide 2012

Rip & Equip: Backpacks

Finding a great fitting backpack is the key to happy backpacking. Plus, learn how to keep your pack looking and feeling like new.

by: Kristin Hostetter

PAGE 1 2 3

Care Instructions

Clean

Caked-on grime can degrade a pack’s water-resistant coating and clog the zippers, so clean your pack at least annually. Dunk it in a tub of warm, sudsy water (use a mild dish soap like Palmolive), and scrub with a sponge or brush. Rinse well, stuff the inside with newspapers, and hang dry. Never put your pack in the washing machine; it will tear it apart. Also, avoid DWR-damaging hot water, bleach, and spot stain removers.

Never Do This
>> Secure heavy items on a pack’s outside. Pack weighty gear inside for better balance, so you don’t lose gear, and to avoid stressing seams.
>> Check your pack unprotected for airline travel. Protect your pack by putting it into a giant duffel. If it doesn’t fit fully-loaded, you may be able to squeeze it in if it’s unpacked. Don’t have a big duffel? Ask check-in personnel for a protective plastic bag to cover your pack (they’re usually free).
>> Overstuff a zippered pocket. If you have to yank on a zipper to get it closed, there’s too much inside that compartment, and you run the risk of damaging the slider. Instead, redistribute the contents so the zipper closes easily.

Repair
>> Fabric that’s no longer water-resistant
If water soaks the material instead of beading on it, spray your pack with a waterproofer, such as Nikwax Tent & Gear Proof.
>> Zippers that snag Vacuum out the dust, scrub the zippers with a wet toothbrush, and then grease the chain with a lubricant like McNett Zip Care (lip balm also works in a pinch).
>> Blown-open zipper If the chain’s teeth or coils aren’t aligned
correctly—or if the slider has worn down and lost traction—the zipper can split open, spilling your gear. Open the zipper all the way to the bottom, and then gently squeeze the sides of the slider with pliers and move it up and down to realign the teeth and tighten the slider. If this doesn’t work, replace the slider.
>> Frayed fabric Superglue the torn edges together for a quick fix. Apply McNettSeam Grip once it dries to make the repair last longer. Seamsters or manufacturer-approved services like stitchlines.com may be able to mend major damage (e.g., torn-off shoulder straps) for as little as $20.
>> Packbag hole Trim the loose threads and patch with McNett Gear Aid Fabric Repair Patches. Cut patch into a round (to prevent peeling corners) that’s at least one-half-inch larger than the hole on all sides. Apply with pressure on the pack’s inside. Seal the edges with Seam Grip.
>> Broken buckles To replace a hipbelt or shoulder strap buckle in the field, cut off a less-critical buckle, like one from a side strap or the lid. Find the thin plastic bar that the strap threads under and slice it in the center (A); you can heat the plastic with a lighter to soften it. Slide the strap through the slit (B), then duct-tape the bar back together (covering the slit). Tip: Repair buckles, such as Liberty Mountain Quick Attach Buckle ($1.50, libertymountain.com), have a hinged plastic bar (C); pack one or more in your repair kit to ease on-trail replacement. Watch a video demo of a buckle replacement in the field at backpacker.com/buckle.

Use
>> Wrap hard-edged items like fuel canisters inside your clothes so the pack’s fabric doesn’t abrade where you rub against rocks. Stow crampons in a burly, puncture-resistant bag or put rubber point guards over the tips (both are available at most outdoor stores).
>> Remove food—even crumbs—from your bag at night so mice and squirrels don’t gnaw their way in. Hang it from a tree for extra protection, since lingering odors and salt residue on sweat-soaked shoulder straps or padding can draw animals, too.
>> Double-bag messy items, like insect repellent and sunscreen. Leaked chemicals can damage fabrics and DWR finishes.
>> Stow gear in trash bags or waterproof stuffsacks to keep it dry.
>> Keep pack weight to 30 percent or less of your body weight. Some tough folks can handle more, but their knees won’t like it.
>> Give ultralight packs extra TLC. Many of them are made with gossamer fabrics like silnylon, which weigh about 50 percent less than other materials but are also less abrasion-resistant. Follow these six tips for giving your ultralight pack a long, happy life:

1. Keep the total weight—including food, water, and fuel—below 25 pounds for frameless packs and 30 pounds for ultralighters with aluminum stays. Since the packs themselves only weigh about one to 1.5 pounds, they can’t support mammoth loads.
2. Don’t yank compression straps. Tug gently.
3. Avoid lashing heavy items to the side, which can blow out seams. Store them in the center, surrounded by softer gear.
4. Reinforce high-wear areas (like the pack bottom) with McNett Sil Fix (for silnylon packs) or Seam Grip for other fabrics.
5. Avoid bushwhacking if possible, and don’t sit on your pack.
6. For extra support and comfort, insert your sleeping pad along the backpanel or in the backpanel sleeve made for that purpose.

Tips from a Pro
“Toss your pack around like a gym bag and it will meet an early demise. Preserve the integrity of shoulder straps and stitching by lifting your pack by the haul loop, just below the top lid. If your pack is too heavy, get help from a hiking partner, prop it on a log, or use the following method that protects your pack (and spine): Bend one leg into a shallow lunge; pick up the pack by the haul loop and place it on your front, bent thigh, making sure the shoulder straps are facing you. With one hand still holding the loop, twist your torso and slide an arm through the far shoulder strap; bend forward to shift the weight onto your back and slide the other arm through the strap.”
— Excerpted from BACKPACKER’s Complete Guide to Outdoor Gear Maintenance and Repair ($20, falconguides.com)

Boost Comfort
Balance your load for a more comfortable fit—and to reduce wear and tear on your pack. Follow Gear Editor Kristin Hostetter’s tips for on-trail pack adjustments at backpacker.com/packstraps.

PAGE 1 2 3

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READERS COMMENTS

LARRY DAVIS
Jul 26, 2012

I'm an external frame pack enthusiast as well.
I was told if I tried a well fitting internal frame pack I'd never go back so I just bought one to try out on my trip in August. We will see.

Josh from PA
Jul 01, 2012

I'm an external frame pack junky. I would never again use an internal frame, for various reasons. My external frame packs do weigh a couple pounds more, but they also do more and carry more than internals. They also allow my bug sweaty back to breathe. Externals are more versatile. The extra weight suits me (I'm big, athletic, strong), and I understand smaller people need to account for every ounce. The faddish obsession with internal frame packs is weak and unfounded. Good advice would be "Pick a pack that suits your needs, physique, style, length of trip, purpose, etc.," instead of recommending only an internal frame pack.

Keith
May 07, 2012

The advice is all good, very good. However, some like me still prefer an external frame pack, although they seem to have fallen out of fashion.One's use of an external does not necessarily indicate being "old school," having a lack of knowledge, or being an "overpacker."

Anonymous
May 04, 2012

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