Backpacker Magazine – March 2012

Died and Gone to New Zealand

Hiker heaven, redefined, is a month-long hike/paddle/camp in Adventureland.

by: Jonathan Dorn and Michael Lanza

Tags:
• Destinations
|
• Adventure travel
|

---

DOUBTFUL SOUND, FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH ISLAND
Sea kayak beneath soaring mountains in waters that scared off early explorers, with dolphins and penguins for company.
When Lieutenant (not yet captain) James Cook explored the wild southwest coast of the South Island, where long, deep fjords probe like crooked fingers into mountains smothered beneath rainforest, he feared trying to sail into this particular sliver of sea—he thought the prevailing westerly winds would prevent his ship from maneuvering back out. He dubbed the place Doubtful Harbor, and the name stuck. It should be called Certain Sound today, because modern explorers in nimble kayaks are guaranteed an only-in-New Zealand experience. Unlike better-known Milford Sound to the north, with its constant cruise boat and ferry traffic, the wilderness here is unchanged since Cook’s time. Sheer granite walls erupt straight out of the sea to 4,000-foot summits, and fur seals, bottlenose dolphins, and nesting crested penguins thrive in the pristine environment. On a beginner-friendly overnight sea kayaking tour from Deep Cove to Hall Arm, on Doubtful Sound’s often-glassy waters, you’ll paddle beneath 1,000-foot waterfalls on cliffs so choked with twisted podocarp and fernlike punga trees that the occasional “tree avalanche” rips down the walls. Each day involves four to five hours of leisurely paddling, and the campsite alone is worth the effort: It sits tucked in the forest behind a secluded, rocky beach with a panorama of vaulted cliffs reflected in the water. In the evening, stroll to the beach for a southern hemisphere sky machine-gunned with stars, and look for Orion standing on his head (in summer).

Do it It’s possible to BYO sea kayak for a DIY trip, but the put-in at Deep Cove is remote and requires a ferry ride across Lake Manapouri. Best bet: Go with Fiordland Wilderness Experiences ($399NZ/person including transportation and food; fiordlandseakayak.co.nz.). Info doc.govt.nz Cost $$$

PAGE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Subscribe to Backpacker magazine
Sign up for our free weekly e-newsletter

Name:
Address 1:
Address 2:
City:
State:	- Select - APO/FPO Americas APO/FPO Europe APO/FPO Pacific Alabama Alaska Arizona Arkansas California Colorado Connecticut District of Columbia Delaware Florida Georgia Hawaii Idaho Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Kentucky Louisiana Massachusetts Maryland Maine Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri Montana North Carolina North Dakota New Hampshire New Jersey New Mexico New York Nebraska Nevada Ohio Oklahoma Oregon Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina South Dakota Tennessee Texas Utah Virginia Vermont West Virginia Washington Wisconsin Wyoming American Samoa F.S. Micronesia Guam Marshall Islands Mariana Islands Puerto Rico Palau Island Trust Territories Virgin Islands Wake Island
Zip:
Email (req):

Offer valid in US only.
Canadian subscriptions | International subscriptions

PRINT THIS PAGE RSS FEED

Reader Rating: -

Digg Delicious Yahoo Facebook Reddit StumbleUpon Google Newsvine MySpace Twitter