Backpacker Magazine – March 2012

Died and Gone to New Zealand

Hiker heaven, redefined, is a month-long hike/paddle/camp in Adventureland.

by: Jonathan Dorn and Michael Lanza

Tags:
• Destinations
|
• Adventure travel
|

---

Not that we’re complaining, but it seems almost unfair that one country could have so much world-class terrain—mountains, beaches, fjords, volcanoes—packed into a landmass the size of Colorado. Yes, the adventure capital of the world has it all—including, unfortunately, hordes of trekkers seeking to tick the Routeburn and Milford Tracks off their bucket lists. But you can escape the crowds without missing the iconic scenery. We scoured both islands, consulted locals and guides, and sent two scouts into the field to create the perfect Kiwi vacation—a month’s worth of adventures, no reservations required.

(Note: Daily cost per person in U.S. dollars based on double occupancy: $ <$50 $$ 50-100 $$$ 100-150 $$$$ 150-200 $$$$$ >200. See Kiwi Quick Start for more planning resources.)


THE WHANGANUI RIVER, NORTH ISLAND
Discover a local favorite: paddling through the heart of a Maori historic homeland.
Launch a canoe into the green waters of the Whanganui River and you’ll understand why the native Maori believe that every bend in this stunning waterway had a mauri, or “life force.” All along the 54-mile stretch from Whakahoro to Pipiriki— mostly within Whanganui National Park—sandstone and mudstone cliffs soar hundreds of feet out of the water, creating a nearly unbroken gorge of sheer walls draped with ribbon waterfalls and a jungle of foliage. Life force, indeed. You’ll explore side slot canyons like Mangaio Stream, and well-preserved Maori villages like Tieke Marae—a cluster of huts with an ornately carved totem pole scowling over the grounds. The route also passes the infamous Bridge to Nowhere, a span built across a deep gorge after World War II to provide access to the river for Kiwi settlers—who eventually abandoned the remote outpost. At night, camp riverside (budget) or stay in a hut or lodge (luxe); either way you’ll go to sleep with the sounds of exotic birds like the brown kiwi echoing through the trees. The class I-II river is straightforward for experienced paddlers, but some rapids are challenging in high flows. The last major rapid before Pipiriki is notorious for swamping canoes, although it’s an easy-to-swim wave train (and can usually be avoided to river right). Got extra time? Paddle the entire Whanganui River Journey, a 90-mile, five-day trip from Taumarunui to Pipiriki; it’s the only water-based adventure listed among New Zealand’s vaunted Great Walks.

Do it The three-day trip begins at Whakahoro and ends at Pipiriki. Spend night one at John Coull Hut (inside or camp) at mile 23, and night two at Bridge to Nowhere Lodge (campsites are adjacent and across the river at mile 41). Guide/gear rental canoesafaris.co.nz and whanganuirivercanoes.co.nz. Guidebook/map Guide to the Whanganui River, $9NZ Info/huts/campsites doc.govt.nz Cost $$*



Subscribe to Backpacker magazine
Sign up for our free weekly e-newsletter